VIENG XAI CELLARS

The caves of Vieng Xai, also known as the caves of the Lao Pathet, are one of the most fascinating testimonies of the Vietnam War (or Second Indochina War), the one that gave birth to the Lao People's Democratic Republic.

For nearly a decade, about 23,000 soldiers and civilians survived the intense aerial bombardment by the U.S. Air Force by living underground in this hidden city. There have been more than 100 caves, but only about 20 are officially open to visitors, the same ones that were occupied by prominent members of the Pathet Lao during the period 1964 to 1973. As they are scattered at the bottom of a valley, in the middle of limestone massifs (karstic formations) covered by tropical vegetation, aerial observation was almost impossible. Some caves are shallow and have been enlarged with explosives and their entrances protected by concrete walls. Real small bunkers were built inside to protect against intensive bombardment. This is also where the American prisoners were imprisoned. From 1973 onwards, villas and other outbuildings were built outside the cave shelters, as the American bombardments had ceased. It should be noted that it was in this region that the Pathet Lao had set up re-education camps, where Party opponents such as members of the royal family, pro-Western intellectuals, etc. were interned. The programme included forced indoctrination and hard physical labour.

It is now possible to visit the caves without official permission. For visual comfort, a flashlight should be brought along, as the lighting in the main caves is rather dim. It is possible to rent a bicycle (15,000 kips) at the visitors' centre to get to the different sites. Audio guides are also available, a first in Laos! These are excellent and very informative, however if you speak English it is best to hire the services of a licensed guide to better understand the history of the site. It is best to arrive early to take the time to read the explanatory panels in the visitor centre. The guided tour lasts about 3 hours.

There are many anecdotes about these caves, as well as the events that took place there and the prestigious people who stayed there. In an interview, Yasser Arafat admitted that he had spent several days there with the leaders of the Pathet Lao to learn about their guerrilla techniques, which he himself intended to put into practice as part of the Palestinian people's struggle against Israel. Obviously equipped with thick concrete walls, capable of resisting American bombardments, these caves are built like veritable underground bunkers, with guard room, meeting room, kitchen, bedroom, bathroom, room where the air was purified when American planes dropped their chemical bombs, as well as medical care blocks in case of emergency. A Soviet-made pump was used to provide fresh air around the caves, creating a liveable environment.

The Laotian leaders did not stay permanently in their natural shelters or cloistered in their blockhouses. They only took shelter there when there were alerts and lived the rest of the time in the open air, close to their shelters. After the end of the American bombings in 1973, most members of the Pathet Lao settled in a house built next to their cave. Nostalgia, when you have us? "By my cave, I lived happily..."

Tham Than Kaysone. This cave, formerly known as Tham Yonesong, is important for many reasons. It was here that the headquarters of the Pathet Lao was located, under the leadership of Mr. Kaysone Phomvihane (future Prime Minister, then second president of the Lao Republic until 1992). It is the deepest cave (150 m long) and the most imposing because of its long corridor. One can see in the reception room the table surrounded by the seven seats of the leaders (the original furniture has since been replaced).

Tham Than Souphanouvong or the "cave of the Red Prince", which joined the party. Inside, several objects that belonged to him are religiously guarded and venerated. The cave has been laid out like the inside of a house, with rooms separated by wooden partitions. After the end of the bombings (in 1973), a small residence was built just in front of the entrance. There is a heart-shaped pool in front of the villa. It was built in a bomb crater. The prince's son is buried under a stupa not far from there.

Tham Than Khamtay. This cave sheltered the former Prime Minister. At the entrance you can still see several craters, now partly covered. The meeting room downstairs is long and very impressive.

Tham Than Xang Lot. Contrary to the others, this one did not shelter any important person in the long term. Because of its size, it was chosen to be used as a conference room or auditorium. One could install a hundred spectators there. Its name comes from the fact that an elephant could have moved around there without hindrance.

Tham Xieng Muang. From a depth of 200 m, it would have sheltered a hospital.

Tham Along. 2.5 km to the right on the road to Vietnam, it can be visited without a guide.