WAWEL ROYAL CASTLE

A symbol of Polish national pride and unity, Wawel Hill and its architectural ensemble overlooking the Vistula River are the historical and cultural heart of Krakow, and a fortiori of Poland. Among the tourists, you'll see a host of classes from all over Poland reconnecting with their heritage. With its Christian sanctuary and castle, Wawel has symbolized the union of religious and secular power since the ^11th century, centered around the cathedral building, which was both the coronation and burial place of Polish kings, and is now also the site of the pantheon of Poland's most illustrious men. The last ones to be installed there, Lech Kaczińsky and his wife, caused a great deal of controversy.
The complex has two entrances, on either side of the Planty (logical, given that the Planty follows the trace of the old walls). The first, opposite rue Kanonicza, is the most authentic. It takes you up a short series of steps, past the wall on which the main contributors to the ^20th-century renovation are commemorated, past the site's secondary ticket office and through the cathedral door. The second, opposite Grodzka Street, is longer but less crowded, and offers superb views of the Vistula River.

Practical advice before starting your visit: the site is divided into numerous exhibitions, each with its own admission ticket (the cathedral has a separate ticket office). We advise you to keep things simple and buy your tickets online: there's no need to queue at the ticket office to find out that the day's stock is sold out. As the site is not always accessible, we recommend that you head for the main ticket office inside the venue, where the flow is faster and you'll get much more information. We also recommend taking a guided tour of the castle's interior. Make sure you don't arrive too late (especially in the afternoon), or you'll be forced to turn back rather quickly.

Wawel Esplanade. In the center, you can see the foundations of the ^14th-century churches of St. Michael and St. George, which were destroyed by the Austrians to build an arsenal. If you face the castle, you'll see the entrance to the main ticket office on your right, and to its right a small café terrace overlooking the city. On your left is the cathedral, facing the ticket office and the ecclesiastical apartments. Behind you, the surviving Austrian barracks, which include a café.

Lost Wawel(Wawel Zaginiony). Before rushing off to the royal apartments, we strongly recommend you visit this small, modern exhibition in the castle's basement kitchens. It traces the eventful history of the site and, above all, the enormous efforts made by the Poles to reclaim and restore their heritage. The exhibition is enhanced by archival images and videos, models and computer representations illustrating the parts of the building that have now disappeared. Understanding what the Wawel means to Poles makes the visit all the more enjoyable.

Royal Castle(Zamek królewski). The estate's main building boasts a splendid Renaissance courtyard. Its three superimposed galleries with columns and arcades give it the appearance of a fairy-tale palace. The present building dates from the ^16th century, commissioned by Sigismund I the Elder to the Italian architects Francesco Florentino and Bartolomeo Berecci. The castle marked the start of the Renaissance in Poland and symbolized royal authority for six centuries, before it burned down and the Court moved to Warsaw in 1596. First plundered in 1655 by the Swedes, then successively by the Russians and Prussians, it was already in a poor state of repair when it passed into Austrian hands in 1796. After the Krakow uprising, the castle was militarized by the Habsburgs in the ^19th century, who turned it into barracks and destroyed several buildings in the complex. The Austrian Poles obtained the right to buy it back and renovate it by raising a large national subscription in 1905, but restoration work didn't really get underway until 1918, when the country became independent. In 1939, Hans Frank, the bloodthirsty Nazi governor of Krakow, made it his residence.

The royal apartments(Prywatne Apartamenty Królewskie) include rooms from all periods, intended for the country's leaders. Several rooms have retained their Renaissance architecture and ceilings, while others with marble floors copy Versailles. The apartments also recreate the presidential suite, last occupied in 1938. The highlight of the visit is the collection of ^16th-century Flanders tapestries adorning the walls of the apartments of King Sigismund the Old and the state apartments on the^2nd floor. These tapestries, from the workshop of Brussels artist Michiel van Coxcie, were evacuated to Canada and only returned to Poland in 1962.

The State Apartments(Komnaty Królewskie). These enfilade rooms are a less lively, more solemn mirror image of the royal apartments. Luxurious styles from all eras can be found here, in former ceremonial and meeting rooms that once hosted foreign ambassadors, balls and weddings, and several throne rooms. The most surprising room is the Poselska Room, with its ceiling featuring thirty sculpted heads watching you. The most impressive and symbolic room is the Senatorska Hall, where Szczerbiec, the sword of the kings of Poland, is displayed in all its splendor.

The exhibition of oriental art(Sztuka wschodu) features trophies brought back from the legendary Battle of Vienna (1683) by John III Sobieski. The ^17th-century Turkish banners and tents were impressive works of art, marking the power and might of the Ottomans in the face of their enemies. The exceptionally rich tents could be worth several years' rent for small kingdoms. After this victory and the parade of the finest Ottoman artefacts, the Polish aristocracy adopted orientalist "Sarmatian" fashions in clothing, objects and furniture. If you're short of time, don't bother: better preserved and presented pieces can be found in the Czartoryski Museum.

The Crown Jewels and the Armory. The Armory has some superb pieces, but they are interchangeable with those in the National Museum or the Czartoryski Museum. It's also not very entertaining, and we marvel at the craftsmanship of the weapons and the exoticism of the hussar armor without knowing what they represent. The crown jewels suffer a similar fate. Unique and with a strong symbolic value, they're more than worth a visit, but then again, without having done your research, it's hard to understand the emotion of the Poles around you.

The Sandomierska Tower(Baszta Sandomierska). This artillery tower was built around 1460, during the reign of Casimir IV Jagellon, to reinforce the castle's defences. In times of peace, it was used as a prison. From its summit, there's a fine panoramic view of the city.

The Dragon's Cave(Smołka Jama). Legend has it that the Kraków dragon once lived here. Accessed from the top of the citadel via a small tower set against the surrounding wall, a 135-step staircase leads down into the bowels of the hill before bringing you out 70 meters further on to the Vistula quays. The little ones will be fascinated by the fire-breathing bronze dragon (every 5 minutes) installed at the exit (no need to pay a visit to the cave to see it), erected in 1972 by sculptor Bronisław Chromy. We recommend ending your visit to Wawel Hill with the Dragon's Grotto, which will take you straight to the banks of the Vistula.