PLACE AMUR TIMUR

In the centre of Tashkent, on Amur Timur Square, a gigantic statue of Tamerlan on horseback replaced that of Karl Marx shortly after independence. Lovers of detail will note that the emperor is depicted with his right arm outstretched, which was impossible for him due to his infirmity. However, legend has it that the reason Tamerlan's armies were so strong was that each soldier, even with his right arm severed in battle, could continue to fight with his left hand as well, just like his leader.

To the west of the square stands the colossal Hotel Uzbekistan, whose architecture evokes an open book, while the concrete "interlacing" on the façade symbolizes the Koranic writing. To the right of the Hotel Uzbekistan, a brand new congress centre was inaugurated in 2011. Its structure with colonnades spaced out by large glass panels is dominated by a dome where two humos, the legendary birds of the Avesta, which have become one of the national symbols, are enthroned.

The Amur Timur square itself, once buried under the shade of hundred-year-old plane trees, has been completely redone, sacrificing these venerable trees in the process. People now stroll among the shrubs, but without much enthusiasm since the locals left the place. The official aim was to clear the view of the brand new congress centre from Karl Mark Avenue opposite, in defiance of the plane trees, so emblematic of Central Asian cities and unfortunately so often the victims of urban renovation.