FAYAZ TEPE

Fayaz Tepe, a Buddhist complex from the 1st century AD, is a magical, timeless and particularly moving place. In the middle of the steppe, with Amu Daria in the background and Afghanistan within reach, one is overwhelmed by the calm and beauty of the place. A labyrinth of living rooms and places of worship, the complex welcomed pilgrims from all over the world 2,000 years ago. Its renovation was entirely completed in 2004 with the support of UNESCO: the stupa is now sheltered from bad weather by a dome. If you're lucky, the guard will let you in and take a look around what's left of the original stupa. He will describe the golden Buddhas that adorned alcoves, the feasts that were prepared in gargantuan kitchens, and the moments of rest when pilgrims and monks took a cool break under airy awnings. The small neighbouring museum does not host the results of the excavations, which are mostly divided between the Archaeological Museum of Termez and the Museum of the History of the Peoples of Uzbekistan. In the central courtyard, a reconstructed pond illustrates the ingenious rainwater harvesting system that had been put in place. In this regard, an irrigation system had also been developed to convey the waters of the Amou Daria River, which is several dozen kilometres from the site. Try to visit Fayaz Tepe in the light at the end of the day: with the steppe that unfolds infinitely all around it is of absolute simplicity and poetry.