MIR (International Reform Museum)

An excellent museum, simple and highly didactic, a must-see. A treasure trove for those who find the subtleties of the Reformation obscure, or who want to better understand Geneva's history. The museum's layout is highly educational. Before the advent of Protestantism, it's important to look at the historical context. Europe was in the grip of plague epidemics. Yesterday's convictions were being called into question. The Americas had just been discovered, the famous "great discoveries", and science was also challenging the great truths of the Church, which could no longer meet society's expectations. The Reformation? This is a movement of thought that seeks to take the founding texts of Christianity, the Bible, as its basis, without going through the interpretations of the Church. It was rooted in the humanism of the Renaissance, which was then in full swing. The Reformation was one of the key stages in Geneva's spiritual and political development. The museum is housed in a handsome ^18th-century mansion, the Maison Mallet. Located a stone's throw from Saint-Pierre Cathedral, it occupies the cathedral's former cloister. A highly symbolic location: on May 21, 1536, the Reformation was adopted here. A video in the entrance traces the history of Martin Luther, then that of Jean Calvin, through the wars of religion that tore France apart. In 9 stages, it tells the story of Protestantism from the ^16th century to the present day, from Luther's theses, born in part from the famous sale of indulgences by the Church to the faithful for the salvation of their souls. What price, then, for an assured passage to heaven? Luther was scandalized by these abuses of the Church, which was made rich by these particularly lucrative sales. These new ideas, revolutionary at the time, were widely disseminated thanks to the invention of the printing press. Books became accessible to a large population, 90% of whom were illiterate. Previously, their extremely high price and rarity made them accessible only to a very wealthy elite. Various personalities, including Luther and Calvin, put forward new ideas. Between 1562 and 1598, when Henry IV promulgated the Edict of Nantes, establishing tolerance between religions, France was bloodied by the Wars of Religion, culminating in the horror of the St. Bartholomew's Day massacre in 1572. The first caricatures appear, and the persecutions of French Huguenots, provoked by the revocation of the Edict of Nantes promulgated by Louis XIV in 1685, are evoked, culminating in the exile of Protestants to Switzerland, with the arrival of Calvin in 1536, and the role of Geneva in the influence and spread of Calvinism... On a fascinating map, you'll follow the journeys of Protestant refugees, from the arrival of the Mayflower in America in 1620, to the celebration of the first Thanksgiving, and the arrival of other refugees in Huguenot South Africa, convinced they were arriving in the Promised Land, with all the well-known consequences for the original inhabitants. In each land of exile, these emigrants brought with them their know-how: wine in South Africa, lace in Holland, the famous watchmaking in Switzerland.... What's also interesting is to see old and sometimes moving writings: a personal letter from Calvin, accounts of the St. Bartholomew's Day massacres, engravings, historical documents, original works and objects dating from the ^18th century wars of religion: bibles, old engravings of Geneva, Calvin's works in their original editions, portraits of the reformers, souvenirs of the persecutions and the Refuge. Don't miss the music room, where you can listen to true musical masterpieces inspired by Protestantism from the ^16th century to the present day, set against a backdrop of stained-glass colors. It has been said that "Catholicism is for the eyes, Protestantism is for the ears". Here's a magnificent example of this, as we listen to the beauty of South African, Ethiopian and Hungarian Reformed songs, songs in Old French, Aretha Franklin, and Depeche Mode's "Personal Jesus", covered here by Johnny Cash.... Finally, the historical cellars offer a look at contemporary Protestantism around the world. Interesting debates are set up, and we listen to excerpts from Martin Luther King's magnificent speech. You'll also be able to read some wonderful quotes from thought-provoking personalities. These magnificent words include one from Desmond Tutu, an icon, like Nelson Mandela, in the fight against apartheid: "Be kind to white people, they need you to rediscover their humanity".

"In the footsteps of the Reformation": a 10-stop tour of the old town, duration 1 hour. You can download the tour and educational packs at www.musee-reforme.ch/ecoles/

Activities at the MIR for children: we're given an interactive screen, and when we place it in front of some of the paintings, the personality of the work comes to life and begins to evoke the historical context of its period, its role etc. Excellent! An audio guide in 10 languages is available free of charge.

The store : the museum shop offers a wide selection of specialist books on the Reformation.