The terraces of Lavaux
From Ouchy, you'll start to see the long, stepped vineyards cultivated directly on the slope, a surprising and intriguing landscape that separates the two major conurbations of Lausanne and Vevey-Montreux. Because of the steep slopes plunging towards the lake, ranging from 13% to 43%, the Lavaux vineyards are contained by terraced walls. Over a total area of 898 ha, vines and low stone walls run in long lines parallel to the road and lake, reaching 32 km in length between Ouchy and Chillon Castle, or a little more if you count the overhangs on the Lausanne and Vevey-Montreux sides. Where the slope is steepest, the width of the land does not exceed 2 or 3 m. Village dwellings are squeezed in so as not to encroach on the vineyards. This terraced layout dates back to the 11th century, and is thought to have been created by Benedictine and Cistercian monks, who worked meticulously on this environment to orient the vines as far as possible towards the sun.
A point of history
Lavaux has a rich history, marked by Roman civilization and closely linked to that of the canton of Vaud. The struggles of the Helvetians and their retreat, the hold of the House of Savoy, the Bernese conquest and occupation, not to mention the Reformation in 1536, have all contributed to shaping the region's spirits and customs. But let's not get ahead of ourselves: it all really began in the 12th century with the arrival of the Cistercian monks, who considerably advanced winegrowing techniques. It was they who took the initiative in building superimposed terraces, supported by low walls. Under the motto Ora et labora, "Pray and work", they also introduced Pinot Noir plants, while cultivating wild white grape plants.
Until 1900, the farmers who took over the vineyards were also stockbreeders. They owned cattle and a few fields in the hinterland. At the end of the 19th century, phylloxera, a kind of aphid that ravages vines, wreaks havoc in all European vineyards, marking the end of mixed farming. It was the grafting of local grape varieties onto American seedlings that made it possible to remedy the damage caused by this parasite. Saved, the vines continue to be passed down from father to son, and today to daughter as well. Some families have lived in the same house since the 16th century! You'll sense a real love for the land in the villages, even among the youngest, contrary to what you might think. Some, however, are thinking of ways to enjoy wine in a more contemporary setting, while retaining the charm of the authentic; they are proposing innovative recipes, or even quirky labels..
Stages of work in the Lavaux vineyard
Vines are one of the region's main attractions. But do you know how it's worked here? In winter, the young vine shoots are pruned. In spring, when the vines have grown, we disbud. In summer, we tie up, thin out the leaves and shear the vines. Between the end of September and the end of October, the grapes are finally harvested. The harvested grapes are placed in crates for storage in the cellar. The grapes are then pressed, and the extracted juice (must) is transferred to a vat for fermentation. Under the action of yeasts, the sugar in the grapes is transformed into alcohol, and the juice becomes wine. Finally, the wine is clarified by filtering, and then bottled. White wines are generally bottled in April, and reds in late summer.
A small local peculiarity: the steep slopes and confined space prevent over-mechanization. The vast majority of harvesting is therefore done by hand, usually by seasonal foreign workers. Only a rack-and-pinion monorail is used to slide a seat and wagons of grapes. On the steep slope of Dézaley, a funicular railway has been specially installed. It's a great opportunity for visitors to take a ride in such a beautiful landscape!
The wine of Lavaux
So, what should you taste when you find yourself strolling among the vines? Here are a few answers... What makes Lavaux so special is the quality of its wine, a quality that is due not only to the land, but also to the "three suns": the one that comes directly from the sky, the one reflected by Lake Geneva, and the one that the low walls of the terraces have stored in the form of heat.
Moreover, the great diversity of soils and the microclimate that reigns here, very mild thanks to the lake, even in such a small area, enable the winegrower to make the most of his know-how to produce a wide range of wines. Indeed, the same vineyard can produce very different wines, depending on whether it is planted near the lake, on the edge of the forest or on terraces supported by thick walls.
The Lavaux wine-growing region boasts no fewer than six appellations d'origine contrôlée (AOC): lutry, villette, épesses, saint-saphorin, chardonne and vevey-montreux, as well as two grands crus: dézaley and calamin. The greatest Lavaux cru is undoubtedly Dézaley, one of Switzerland's finest white wines. This wine is dry and golden, rich and racy, with a certain bitterness (the taste that wine takes on as a result of certain microbial attacks). It has become so much a part of Swiss culture that an image of the vineyard appears on the back of 200 franc banknotes.
As in the whole canton of Vaud, the main grape variety grown in Lavaux is Chasselas, which adapts well to the soil and climate to produce dry, fruity, robust wines, superior to those produced in France. But the reds also include pinot-gamay and pinot noir with a few specialties.
Chasselas or splitting?
Chasselas is the great specialty of Vaud winegrowing! A discreet white wine, you might say, that puts aside the primary aromas typical of varietal wines to let the notes derived from the particularities of winemaking and the soils in which it grew dominate, specific to the canton of Vaud and Lavaux in particular.
Having gone by several names since the 12th century, the grape was most commonly known as "fendant"... because it splits easily under the tooth! After the Sonderbund war, around 1847, neighboring Valaisans began planting large quantities of "fendant" and marketing it under this name. Obliged to differentiate themselves, the winegrowers of Vaud decided to give their grape variety the name "chasselas", even though, throughout Europe, this name was associated with table grapes. Chasselas now accounts for 66% of Vaud's vineyards (90% of Lavaux's vineyards) and, for the people of Vaud, is the aperitif wine par excellence!
Tourism and gastronomy
In general, you can visit Lavaux while staying in Lausanne, Vevey or Montreux, as the few accommodation options here tend to be luxury hotels, ideally placed in the middle of the vineyards and facing the lake. Some winegrowers also offer apartments and chambres d'hôte, but these are not open all year round, so it's best to check with the Montreux-Vevey tourist office for contact details. The inhabitants of the Lavaux villages have remained attached to authentic values and, to accompany a good wine, they are demanding when it comes to culinary quality! The little pintes nestled in the villages offer traditional cuisine in charming rustic settings. Many of them have a " pinte vaudoise recommandée" plaque, signifying that they are listed and inspected by the Office des vins vaudois. Inventive gastronomy is also on offer on terraces set amidst vineyards and facing the lake.
Walks in Lavaux
To discover the Lavaux terraces, we suggest you start from Vevey, where you take the vineyard train to Chexbres-Village (8 minutes). From Chexbres, either take the wine trail back down to Saint-Saphorin (30 minutes), or opt for a longer, more beautiful walk: take the wine trail over the Dézaley estate, then Calamin (villages of Épesses, then Riex) and on to Cully (2 hours). For the return journey, there are trains from Cully station to Lausanne and Vevey/Montreux.
During your walk, don't hesitate to stop off at the village cellars or, if they're closed, knock directly on the doors of the winegrowers. You can also reach Chexbres from Lausanne: take the train to Palézieux and get off at Puidoux-Chexbres. Make sure you get off at Puidoux-Chexbres, otherwise you'll find yourself on the other side of the slope, in the pastures. It's possible to take the trail from Puidoux-Chexbres, but you can also take the train des vignes towards Vevey and get off at Chexbres-Village.
Finally, for the more adventurous, it's also possible to do the grande traversée. An exceptional 33 km hike from Ouchy to Chillon Castle, almost entirely through vineyards. Allow 8 to 9 hours for the walk. As the terrain is fairly flat, it can be done in a day. But it's best to stop and spend the night in Chexbres, Saint-Saphorin or Vevey.
How about by train or boat?
For those who don't want to or can't walk too much, there are some very pleasant solutions: the Lavaux Express or the Lavaux Panoramic. These small trains, maintained by winegrowers' associations, offer several itineraries departing from Lutry, Cully or Chexbres, each lasting around 1 hour. A special program even includes a trip to a wine cellar with wine tasting.
If you're looking for a little cruise on the lake, why not take a tour aboard a Belle Époque boat. Eight of the sixteen boats operated by the Compagnie Générale de Navigation (CGN) are equipped with paddlewheels and offer a real journey back in time on Lake Geneva. You can stop at almost every important point along the shore. You can take a boat from the port of Ouchy in Lausanne to Chillon and visit the castle, then take another boat to Montreux, La Tour-de-Peilz, Vevey, Saint-Saphorin, Cully, Lutry and back to Ouchy.
By the way, why "Lavaux"?
The term Lavaux appears in the 12th century in a bull issued by Pope Innocent II, which mentions the vallis de Lustriaco, "the Vaulx de Lustrie" in Old French, meaning the "valley of Lutry". This explains why we don't say "le Lavaux", as that would be "le la vallée"! In the 14th century, Aran, Riex and Villette became part of this valley, which was spelled Lavaux in the following century.
