Onsen and sento
Onsen or sento? In the imagination, an onsen, a thermal spring, evokes luxurious relaxation, communion with nature in picturesque settings. The sento, on the other hand, is perceived as an unglamorous meeting place for the elderly or local yakuza. It suffers from an outdated image. In reality, the term " onsen " refers to a natural spring rich in minerals, according to a list drawn up by a post-war law. By extension, it came to designate private establishments and hotels equipped with baths. Sentos, on the other hand, are public baths where water is heated to high temperatures (between 42 and 44°C) in pools. Admission is fixed at 470 yen. The dividing line between sento and onsen is not always clear, as many public baths have thermal springs, while thermal baths have pools where the water is not necessarily thermal. Yet both offer their share of surprises and discoveries in different settings.
Sento, a break in the city
After a day of wandering around Tokyo, there's nothing better than pushing open the door of a public bath. As soon as you enter, the noise of the street fades away. The owners have been running these establishments for several generations, and their know-how is passed down through the family. We buy soap and towel if we don't have them, then enter the baths: ready to literally immerse ourselves in an aspect of Japanese culture that otherwise remains hidden behind the noren, the curtain at the entrance that indicates the character of the hot water, ゆ (yu).
As is customary, the bath is used for relaxation. One washes beforehand, seated on small wooden or plastic stools. The atmosphere is often family-like, and people, in their simplest garb, don't hesitate to chat amongst themselves. The interior of the baths is worth the detour in itself. They can be tiled, decorated with mosaics or penki-e murals. Decorations vary according to the region and the tastes of the owners. They range from scenes of Japanese popular culture to natural landscapes such as views of Mount Fuji. Only three artists in Japan are qualified to create penki-e frescoes , but the decline in the number of sento and their closure one after the other is jeopardizing this art form.
During the Edo period, there were over 2,500 sento in Tokyo. With the advent of private bathrooms in the post-war period, they slowly disappeared. Today, no more than 530 remain in the entire city, and the number is steadily shrinking. To prevent their decline, some are trying to restore their image. Tours to promote the art of sento are offered to both Japanese and foreigners. A particularity of Tokyo's baths is the black water, due to humic acids. It is renowned for its skin-care benefits. Other establishments called "super sento" are veritable spas or theme parks. They don't retain the local charm of the neighborhood sento, but offer entertainment that goes beyond the bath. Oedo onsen, for example, offers the chance to spend one or more days immersed in the city of Edo. The folklore is assured and the atmosphere festive. Aficionados of traditional bathing will undoubtedly prefer the calm of a sento, or even a spa far from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Onsen, spas
Tokyo's soil is rich in hot springs, and you don't have to go far to enjoy them, but it's bathing in nature that first springs to mind when you think of onsen. It symbolizes Japanese well-being, and echoes urban populations' desire for communion with the earth. Springs, waterfalls and natural spots are sought-after for their " power spot " quality, their regenerative energy, and are sometimes the object of a bidding war in the Japanese tourist industry. The springs are renowned for their benefits, which vary according to the minerals present: gypsum, salts, alkalis and others. Onsengai, or small spas, have sprung up around these springs, as at Kinugawa in the city of Nikko. Kinugawa springs have been known since the Edo period to treat burns. Others soften the skin, soothe rheumatism and all manner of ailments, and there are countless legends of samurai healing their wounds in onsen.
As much as the choice of spring, the setting makes all the difference when visiting an onsen. The opportunity to indulge in a bath in nature can be found less than two hours by train from Tokyo, in Nikko or Hakone Yumoto. The latter onsengai is one of the most important in terms of accommodation, due to its proximity to Tokyo, and its location in a natural park where many other activities are possible. Everything in the resort revolves around bathing. Souvenir shops sell towels, salts and beauty products, and several types of pools (outdoor rotenburo, private, in a wooden room, with a view...) are available. In these resorts, you stay in a ryokan, a traditional hotel or cocoon that invites you to relax. Hearty breakfasts and dinners can be served in kaiseki style , a Japanese gourmet cuisine featuring a multitude of dishes. Ryokan are equipped with baths and springs reserved for guests.
Rituals
The Japanese appreciate ritual, and bathing is no exception. It's important to observe a few rules, but they shouldn't get in the way of relaxation. Nudity is the rule, and no clothes or towels are allowed to soak in the water for reasons of hygiene. Men's and women's changing rooms and pools are separate. Tattoos are often forbidden in onsen, but accepted in the vast majority of sento. In recent years, adapting to a new foreign clientele has led some establishments to accept people with tattoos or in swimsuits. If you don't want to walk around naked in front of strangers, you can rent a kashikiri-buro, a private bath for a few hours to share with family or friends. All options are available to enjoy this moment of Japanese-style relaxation.
