In the heart of the Butrint National Park, this 3 ^km2 site (Parku Arkeologjik i Butrintit) is an enchantment: nature mingles with Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Venetian remains. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1992, the ancient Greek town of Bouthroton occupies a wooded hill 43 m high, surrounded by Lake Butrint and the Vivari canal. Think of the visit as a long walk (3h) and arrange to finish at the top at sunset to enjoy the panoramic view over the Strait of Agios Stephanos and Corfu. At the entrance, a map proposes a well-designed 18-point circuit, which we follow here.

1. Greco-Roman ruins. Location of the site's oldest Greek settlements and remains of Roman baths.

2. Venetian tower. Pierced by fine loopholes, this tower dates from the early ^16th century. Butrint, then depopulated, served as an outpost to defend and feed the Venetian-held island of Corfu (1386-1797).

3-4. Sacred spring and sanctuary of Asclepius. This is the heart of the ancient city. As early as the ^4th century BC, the Greek tribe of Chaonians worshipped Asclepius, the god of healing and liberation. People came here to purify themselves at the reputedly miraculous spring, and to hold ceremonies where slaves were freed. Modified in the ^3rd and ^2nd centuries B.C., the sanctuary comprised a temple, a stoa (gallery), the treasure room, buildings for pilgrims, an entrance to the canal and the theater.

5. Theater. This is the most famous monument, where the Butrint Theatre Festival is held in July. The lower part, invaded by water, is a paradise for turtles and frogs. Built in the ^3rd century BC, it could accommodate up to 1,500 spectators. The stage, rebuilt in the ^2nd century BC, features a wall decorated with six niches housing marble statues, including the "Goddess of Butrint", on display at the National History Museum in Tirana. To the left of the scene, acts of emancipation of slaves are engraved in stone.

6-7. Roman ruins. When Butrint became a Roman colony in 31 BC, the town expanded. An aqueduct supplied the thermal baths, whose foundations can be seen here with the brick columns used to heat the caldarium (hot room).

8. Roman Forum. This paved square (52 x 20 m) was built on the ancient Greek agora. It was adorned with marble statues, two of which are on display in the site's small museum.

9. Insulae. These are the ancient Roman quarters. One insula in particular has been excavated, uncovering a vast building (home or gymnasium) later transformed into a church.

10. Triconque Palace. An ancient Roman villa enlarged and transformed into a palace in the early Byzantine period. It owes its name to its triclinium, a triangular room used for meals and receptions.

11. Baptistery. Built in the ^6th century, it features two rows of granite pillars and a central baptismal font. The floor is paved with eight polychrome mosaics (red, black and white) on the theme of the salvation of souls - the number 8 being itself the symbol of salvation in Christian tradition - with 64 medallions featuring animal figures. The mosaics are usually covered with sand.

12. Roman fortifications. Alongside the canal, these high walls were erected in the ^6th century. Reinforced during the ^11th and ^13th centuries, this section was restored in 2011.

13. Main gate. This ^3rd-century B.C. gate was defended by two now-defunct towers linked by an arch. The entrance to the town was marked by two monumental fountains, one of which is partly preserved.

14. Great basilica. With its high, bare walls, this edifice dates back to the Venetian period. It was erected on the site of a ^6th-century basilica. Once decorated with mosaics (still visible in some places), the floor was later covered with stone slabs.

15. Landscapes. The view is superb, with fishermen's boats and, in the distance, the Vrina plain and the Mile Mountains. A sign explains the topography of the opposite bank, including the Kalivo hill (fortified in the Bronze Age) and the sites of ancient Roman and Byzantine quarters (villa, tomb, church, aqueduct).

16. Greek fortifications. Imposing fortifications from the ^4th century BC. One of the walls, made of massive cut stones, features a narrow opening known as the "Scée Gate". According to the poet Virgil, it evokes the gates of mythical Troy.

17. Lion Gate. Of Greek origin, it owes its name to the lintel featuring a sculpture of a lion attacking an ox, added in the^5th century. On the other side, climb 20 steps to discover a mymphaion cut into the rock during the Roman period. The stones bear traces of the ropes used to draw water, as well as the Greek inscription ΙΟΥΝΙΑ ΡΟΥΦΕΙΝΑ ΝΥΜΦΟΝ ΦΙΛΗ ("Junia Roufina amie des nymphes").

18. Acropolis. Almost nothing remains of the ancient acropolis. On the western side, a Byzantine fort was added in the ^13th century. Its underground section houses the Butrint Museum.