MONSERRATE'S BRAIN

A must-see. The forest-covered Cerro de Monserrate rises to an altitude of 3,152 meters. From almost anywhere, you can see its bright white basilica at the top, 500 meters higher. It is easy to get up there. You can choose between a funicular railway dating from 1929 and a cable car dating from 1955, for a picturesque trip on the mountain side, or you can climb up a path of the cross paved with large stones. Count on a good hour for the ascent, a little less for the descent, but be careful with your knees and bring a cap, sun cream and a raincoat just in case. The access path has been secured for a few years (there have been assaults in the past), but don't go far from it. If you are afraid of crowds, avoid going up on Sundays and during Catholic holidays. The rest of the time, it's quiet. Just keep an eye on the sky: a pleasant excursion can quickly turn into a hell of rain, wind and fog. At the top, an exceptional observation point on the city and the Sabana de Bogotá. One realizes the gigantic size of the metropolitan area (and one sees only a part of it). The neo-colonial style basilica was built in 1925, replacing the original chapel (1650), dedicated to Santa María de la Cruz de Monserrate. Many Colombians come here to venerate the image of Cristo Caído y Azotado. Typical food stalls, a café, two restaurants (good but expensive), toilets and handicraft shops await you up there.