NIZWA SOUK

Built on the site of the old traditional market, the "new" Nizwa souk, all in ochre and protected by ramparts, covers an area of 7,600 m². Its traditional architecture and the fact that it's frequented by locals and tourists alike make it a very pleasant place to stroll around, especially in the early morning and late afternoon, when it's at its liveliest. The layout of the neighborhoods is primarily functional. In the direction of the fort, around a lovely little central square that you can recognize by the large number of potteries hanging or lying on the ground, is the craftsmen's area, made up of several stores under arcades. Here you'll find mainly pots and jars, but also ancient weapons, antiques, silver objects and jewelry, palm-leaf baskets and woven rugs... A little further away, in another small square right in line with the entrance to the fort, a door leads to a large covered rectangular hall, crossed by two pedestrian walkways (East Souk), where stalls run by old Omanis line up. These are closing one after the other for lack of customers or people to take them over, and the place is quiet until further notice. But you'll want to visit it for its deceptively old-fashioned but truly authentic atmosphere, and the deep peace that emanates from these chiaroscuro spaces where the sun's rays don't penetrate to the ornate beamed ceilings. Another section, as if untouched, retains an old-fashioned charm: it's like a mini souk within a souk, with ancient, unrenovated arcades, narrow stalls and a whole bric-a-brac of very local products offered by merchants from another age.

Moving away from the fort, you pass through three covered markets for foodstuffs: one for meat, another for fish, the third for fruit and vegetables - all well laid out and meeting generally good hygiene standards, as is the case everywhere in the sultanate, where the cleanliness of shopping areas obeys drastic standards. Further on, at the far end of the shopping area, a final shed houses the date market, where canvas or jute sacks are piled up, as in days gone by. The price of the fruit is negotiated very closely, depending on the variety and quality of the harvest. You can buy directly from the customer or from a large store (7 days a week, 6am-12pm and 4pm-8pm) offering no fewer than 12 varieties of dates at around OMR 1 to 3 per kilo (with the possibility of sampling), plus a few other products (honey, date syrup, spices...). Just opposite is one of the best-known and busiest halls in the whole of Nizwa: that of the Al-Saifi family's famous Halwa Factory, crowded not only by locals, but also by visiting locals. Some would even travel from far and wide to acquire what is considered the best Halwa in the country, if not the entire Gulf!

We then leave the area enclosed by the ramparts and enter an open-air square, where a picturesque livestock market is held every Friday morning. Just as local and traditional, but located on the opposite side of a small square facing the entrance to the fort, don't miss the antique weapons market, also held on Friday mornings.