Mont-Saint-Michel has been there for centuries, grandiose, marvellous, magical in the silver of the evening, haloed by the gold of the setting sun. On a rocky islet, in the middle of immense strikes subject to the coming and going of powerful tides, stands the abbey with its spire stretched towards the sky at 152 metres above sea level, surrounded by walls and covered with buttresses. The incomparable architectural and religious richness of this high place of pilgrimage, the third most visited site in France with more than three million tourists a year, often overshadows the important role played by this stronghold in the history of France. And its illumination allows night-time visitors to see Mont-Saint-Michel in a truly sumptuous, simply unforgettable way. But the Bay is also the coast and all these small villages that watch over the shadow of the "Wonder". Finally, the gastronomy owes its reputation in large part to La Mère Poulard.

A masterpiece as a natural frontier

Once you have crossed the threshold of the King's gate with a drawbridge, you will find yourself under a vaulted passage, formerly a guard house. Above, the town hall has taken refuge. In front of it is the Grande Rue, the only street on the Mont, with its museums, shops and houses from the 15th and 16th centuries. It turns around the rock to lead to the foot of the Grand Degré outside. In high season, it is preferable to take the alleys and other passages deserted by tourists eager for bimbeloteries to enjoy all these beauties. The drawbridge passage also leads to the right to the ramparts path. The parish church, dating from the 15th and 16th centuries, is dedicated to Saint Peter, patron saint of fishermen. Finally, the ascent of the Grand Degré is a prelude to the visit of the abbey. There, the panorama on the Bay is splendid and changing, depending on the weather, but also on the aspect of the shore, covered and uncovered according to the tides. Seascapes made of dunes and grass alternate with the bocage. When the sea rises, a tidal bore - a 25-kilometre-wide wave - rushes "at the speed of a galloping horse" between the points of Cancale and Granville

The Bay, which covers about 500 km², forms a natural border between Brittany and Normandy. A sumptuous setting sheltering the "marvellous pyramid", dear to Victor Hugo, it is inseparable from it and contributes to its development. Numerous hikes are possible in the surrounding area, offering multiple points of view on the Mont. The particularities of the Bay, the richness of the different environments, salt meadows and marshes, as well as its position on the Atlantic migration route, make it an exceptional ornithological reserve. It is also an important crossing point for salmon and a favourable development zone for a large number of flatfish. Salt-meadow lambs with a very fine taste are reared here. They graze in complete freedom on a fragrant vegetation, composed of plants adapted to the environment, and salty like puccinellia and red fescue. But be careful, the Bay can be particularly dangerous. For a visit in complete safety, let yourself be accompanied by a certified guide

The bay and its charming villages

The Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel starts in Granville in Normandy and extends to Cancale in Brittany. Even if the Bretons often claim the Mont for themselves, it is important to know that it is Norman... Granville, this beautiful mermaid nicely installed on its rock, proudly stands its upper town on a cliff where it is good to stroll. Its museums and lighthouse are well worth a detour, but our favourite is the Chausey Islands, the jewels of Granville. Like an ornament that enhances it, they are 52 jewel islands and 365 precious rocks at low tide

From Genêts, it is common to see the Mont through the foliage of a hedge. The last stop on the pilgrimage routes, this commune was full of holy places and symbols. The church, some calvaries and the chapel of Sainte-Anne still exist today. Take advantage of the coastal path, or sentier du littoral, or sentier des douaniers, to walk along the herbus. Continue by Avranches, the city of manuscripts. Its history was marked by the "Percée d'Avranches", when Patton's tanks liberated the town on 31 July 1944, a prelude to the liberation of France. The Saint Gervais Basilica, with its remarkable 74-metre high granite bell tower, houses a set of 23 bells as well as the famous relic of the chief of Saint Aubert, founder of Mont-Saint-Michel, where the hole left by the Archangel's finger can be seen. The virtual replica of the relic is also visible at the Scriptorial, probably the only museum in France entirely devoted to manuscripts. Another must-see, the Jardin des Plantes, with its belvedere overlooking the Bay, particularly majestic at the end of the afternoon, when the light turns to gold. Here you can see the Norman "Wonder" surrounded by the blond sand of the strikes and the two friendly rivers glistening beautifully in the distance. Indeed, the Sée and the Sélune are having fun, beautiful and proud to belong to this enchanting site

Nine kilometres from Mont-Saint-Michel, Pontorson, the town of Bertrand du Guesclin and the Montgomery family, is classified as a Green Resort. Between Normandy and Brittany, the town is famous for its local produce and its walks, the start of the Bay crossings. Its church Notre-Dame des Mystères, built in the 13th century in execution of a vow by William the Conqueror, has remarkable volumes. Le Vivier-sur-Mer, the Breton capital of mussel farming, is famous for its bouchot mussels. The small commune of Saint-Benoît-des-Ondes was known for its fisheries which have all but disappeared. On the other hand, it is very proud to possess in its church a magnificent 17th century painting. It is a copy of the famous Last Supper by Philippe de Champaigne, produced in the school of painting run by his nephew Jean-Baptiste de Champaigne

Cancale, one of the jewels of the Emerald Coast

Finally, facing the Mount, Cancale has always welcomed many visitors with multiple and varied vocations. The town undoubtedly has the most beautiful beaches on this coast, the favourite being the Abri des Îlots beach, a stone's throw from the town centre. An active fishing port, Cancale owes its fame to its oysters. The Ferme Marine, a sort of oyster and shellfish museum, invites you to admire the technique of oyster farming and production through an exhibition of more than 1,500 species of shellfish. Four hiking trails are the opportunity to discover the flora, religious remains, La Houle or the points from the Pointe du Hock to Port-Briac where the views are admirable. In short, Mont-Saint-Michel and its Bay retain all their magic, wherever you are!

Smart Info

How soon? All year round, but if possible avoid long weekends when there are important religious holidays, because the Mount is invaded

Get there. By car (A11 or A13), bus or train.

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