ZUGARRAMURDI CUEVA

Welcome to Zugarramurdi, a small enclave of 250 inhabitants located between the mountains of Navarre and the Cantabrian Sea, in the heart of the Xareta cross-border region. This complicated name, which evokes a tendril in those who hear it for the first time, refers to "elms, hazelnuts and laurels", a characteristic vegetation of the area. Carved out by a fast-flowing stream, the ruisseau de l'enfer, the main cavity has the appearance of a vast tunnel, leading into two other galleries in this rocky ensemble. Archaeologically, evidence of prehistoric times has been discovered, with ceramics and fire stones attributed to the Magdalenian period, and kisulabes, ancient wood-burning ovens.

But these caves are best known for the legends of the witching age! To find out more, visit the Zugarramurdi theater, where the show "Sorgiñak" is presented throughout the year: a true journey through ancient legends and myths, including the ^17th-century witch trials. But let's get back to the cave. It contains neither stalactites nor cave paintings, but its size and legendary magnetism make it particularly appealing. Once inside, it's easy to imagine the sabbats (pagan gatherings at which men and women shirked the habits of ordinary life through frenzied feasting, dancing around the fire and moonlit orgies), buoyed by tales of pagan rites and banquets allegedly presided over by the devil. The names given to the grotto underline its relationship with this magical world.

Indeed, the most open end of the tunnel is named Sorgin Leze (witches' cave) and the narrowest part, Akelarre Leze (akelarre or sabbath cave). Myth or reality? Whatever the case, Zugarramurdi and witchcraft are forever linked by the story of the 1610 auto-da-fé. Inquisitor Valle-Alvarado, after receiving numerous complaints about the preparation of potions, spells and other witchcraft tricks, took 40 suspects to Logroño. The Inquisition court condemned 11 people to death at the stake, whose names appear on a plaque at the entrance to the cave. An annual ceremony recalls the festive use of the caves at the time: this grand gathering takes place on the last day of the village's patron saint's festivities, the day of the traditional zikiro jate. A popular meal attended by 800 people, featuring spit-roasted lamb.