WEST COAST ROAD AND NC 500

It's up here, in this Scottish Wild West, that the soul of the Highlands is to be found. You won't necessarily have time to do the whole itinerary, but choose at least one section to capture the infinite grandeur of this small country. You're free to shorten, cross or modify them. Some are much longer than others and will probably need to be cut in two days. In any case, a good map will be the key to your success.

From Kyle of Lochalsh to Loch Torridon: the first stop is Plockton, an idyllic little village where pretty houses line up facing an enchanting, wooded bay. It heralds the beginning of Loch Carron, which the route follows to the market town of Lochcarron, a long street opening onto the shoreline, where there are plenty of photo opportunities. The road then climbs to the heights, reaching Ardarroch and plunging into the heart of the wildly beautiful Applecross Peninsula. At Tornapress, you can cut off towards Shieldaig and cross sublime, deserted stretches of wide open spaces, ringed by peaks, or continue towards Applecross via the Bealach na Ba pass. The scenery will be all the grander as you climb. Don't hesitate to turn around and look back as you gain altitude over Loch Kishorn in the foreground and Loch Carron in the background. You're about to enter an absolutely enchanting, canyon-like setting, as the road winds its way to a breathtaking view of the Cuillin de Skye. It then descends to the coast, along high moorland-covered plateaus. The rest of the route to Torridon follows the charming coastline, bordered only by the Isle of Raasay and the Trotternish Peninsula.

Loch Torridon to Gairloch: Loch Torridon (split between Loch Torridon and Upper Loch Torridon) is definitely one of the country's most beautiful and surprising. But the mighty Glen Torridon that follows is a reminder that this is the Highlands, with its imposing walls of black mountains, as beautiful as they are dramatic. The road forks at Kinlochewe to follow the admirable Loch Maree, full of charm and strangely silhouetted landforms. The area is a nature reserve and you'll find the Beinn Eighe Visitor Centre just before the loch (www.nnr.scot), then a parking lot on its shores with self-service documentation on possible walks in the area. The path then continues quietly to Gairloch.

Gairloch to Lochinver: the section to Poolewe is fairly typical of the west coast, but it's on the heights of Loch Ewe that the spectacle is truly dazzling. The panorama over this veritable little sea and Ewe Island is unforgettable, especially at sunset. The Guinard Bay to follow is equally romantic, and Little Loch Broom boasts impressive waterfalls at the Ardessie Waterfalls. The road then leaves the coast and announces a return to the heart of the Highlands, once again plunging into deep glens . Before turning off onto the A835 for Loch Broom and Ullapool, stop off at the Falls of Measach. You then have two options for getting to Lochinver: the coast and inland. The coastal route turns off at Drumrunie and skirts two lochs, passing close to Stac Pollaidh (613 m), a curious mountain with a Wild West feel. It then zigzags between water and rock to its destination. The inland route remains on the main road, the A835/37. It's just as sumptuous, and has the advantage of taking in more altitude, between the plains and northern behemoths such as Suilven (731 m), Quinag (808 m) and Cul Mor (849 m), in the distant shadow of the colossal Ben More Assynt (998 m). Just before turning onto Loch Assynt, it passes the photogenic ruins of Ardvreck Castle. If you're short of time, you don't have to make the detour to Lochinver, and can head north without driving along the coast.

From Lochinver to Durness: you can either retrace your steps to catch up with the A894 or follow the coast along the B869. If you opt for the latter, you may wish to pass the Point of Stoer and hike up to its impressive stack, the Old Man of Stoer. You'll catch up with the main road shortly before Unapool and Eas a' Chual Aluinn, Britain's highest waterfall (200 m), is not far from here, but requires a long, tough 10-kilometer round-trip walk from Loch na Gainmich. You'll then follow the beautiful loch-dotted seafront, via the small bay of Scourie and Laxford Bridge. The final stretch between Rhioconich and Durness is a delightful one, with its vast meadows bordered by mountains to the east. If you have a little time to spare in this region, don't miss the enchanting Sandwood Bay, often listed as one of the UK's most beautiful beaches. Take the B801 west to Blairmore, where a small parking lot and toilet facilities mark the start of the trail. It's a 13-kilometer round-trip walk to a breathtakingly beautiful beach, whose white sands are encircled by cliffs and watched over by a majestic stack to the south (www.johnmuirtrust.org).