WEST COAST ROAD AND NC 500

It is up there, in this Scottish Wild West, that you find the soul of the Highlands. You won't necessarily have time to do the whole itinerary, but choose at least one section to capture the infinite grandeur of this small country. You are free to shorten them, cross them or modify them. Some are much longer than others and will probably require to be cut in two days. In any case, a good map will be the key to your success.

From Kyle of Lochalsh to Loch Torridon: the first stop is Plockton, an idyllic little village where pretty houses are lined up facing a bewitching and wooded bay. It announces the beginning of Loch Carron, which the road follows until the village of Lochcarron, a long open street on the banks, where beautiful photos can be taken. The road then climbs on the heights, to reach Ardarroch and plunge into the heart of the Appelcross peninsula, as beautiful as wild. At Tornapress, you can cut off towards Shieldaig and cross sublime and deserted stretches of wide open spaces, surrounded by peaks, or continue towards Applecross via the Bealach na Ba pass. The scenery will be all the more magnificent as you climb. Don't hesitate to turn around and look back as you gain altitude over Loch Kishorn in the foreground and Loch Carron in the background. You will then enter an absolutely fairy-tale-like place with the threat of a canyon, while the road winds its way to a breathtaking view of the Cuillin of Skye. It then descends to the coast, along high moorland covered plateaus. The rest of the route to Torridon follows the charming coastline, which has only the island of Raasay and the Trotternish Peninsula as neighbors.

Loch Torridon to Gairloch: Loch Torridon (split between Loch Torridon and Upper Loch Torridon) is definitely one of the most beautiful and amazing in the country. But the powerful Glen Torridon which follows reminds us that we are in the Highlands, with its imposing walls of black mountains, as beautiful as dramatic. The road forks at Kinlochewe to follow the admirable Loch Maree, which is full of charm and strangely shaped landforms. The area is a nature reserve and you will find the Beinn Eighe Visitor Centre just before the loch (www.nnr.scot), then a parking lot on its shores with self-service documentation on possible walks in the area. The path then continues quietly to Gairloch.

From Gairloch to Lochinver : the section towards Poolewe is quite typical of the west coast but it is on the heights of Loch Ewe that the show is perfectly dazzling. The panorama on this small sea and Ewe Island is unforgettable, especially at sunset. The Guinard Bay to follow is also very romantic and the Little Loch Broom has impressive waterfalls at the Ardessie Waterfalls. The road then leaves the coastline and announces a return to the heart of the Hilghlands, once again entering deep glens . Before turning onto the A835 for Loch Broom and Ullapool, you may want to stop at the Falls of Measach. You then have two options for getting to Lochinver: the coast and the land. The coastal route turns at Drumrunie and follows two lochs, passing close to Stac Pollaidh (613 meters), a curious mountain with a Wild West feel. It then zigzags to its destination between water and rock. The path across the land remains on the main road, the A835/37. It is just as sumptuous and has the advantage of gaining more altitude, between the plains and the northern behemoths, such as Suilven (731 m), Quinag (808 m) and Cul Mor (849 m), in the distant shadow of the colossal Ben More Assynt (998 m). Just before turning onto Loch Assynt, it crosses the very photogenic ruins of Ardvreck Castle. If you are short of time, you don't have to make the detour to Lochinver and you can go north without passing by the coast.

From Lochinver to Durness: you can either retrace your steps to catch up with the A894 or follow the coastline along the B869. If you choose the latter, you can eventually pass by the Point of Stoer and hike to its impressive stack, the Old Man of Stoer. You will catch up with the main road shortly before Unapool and Eas a' Chual Aluinn, the highest waterfall in Britain (200 m) is not far from here, but requires a long and tough 10 km round trip walk from Loch na Gainmich. You will then walk along the beautiful waterfront dotted with lochans (small lochs), via the small bay of Scourie and Laxford Bridge. The final stretch between Rhioconich and Durness is delightful with its vast meadows bordered by mountains to the east. In this area, if you have some time, don't miss the enchanting Sandwood Bay, which is often on the list of the most beautiful beaches in the UK. You'll need to take the B801 west to Blairmore, where a small parking lot and toilets mark the start of the path. It's a 13 kilometers walk there and back, to reach a breathtakingly beautiful beach, whose white sands are encircled by cliffs and watched over by a majestic stack to the south (www.johnmuirtrust.org).