THE ROYAL COURT

Tiébélé's main point of interest is the visit of the royal court. This is the central courtyard where the notables and chiefs of the many villages in the region meet, and which is still inhabited by members of the royal family of Tiébélé, about 200 people currently live there. The association has 14 guides (with badges) who follow a round to conduct the visit. The concession is surrounded by a wall raised with points and forms a vast and somewhat complex labyrinth, made up of terrace huts, linked by a set of alleys and stairs. The banco huts, which are very damaged after wintering, are redecorated by the women at the beginning of the dry season, with repetitive geometric figures representing animals or objects, stylized in black or white on a red background. The traditional pigment technique, used since about the 16th century, is the most commonly used, but it is competing with the contemporary tar technique, which is faster and stronger over time. The guide explains the meaning of representations, whose function is often protective. During the visit, it is possible to visit the inside of a box. The entry of the extremely low and narrow squares requires squatting. Once the opening is crossed, a safety device allows the occupant hidden on the side of a low wall to observe without being seen a possible aggressor. This protective architecture makes it possible, in particular, to launch arrows at slave traders, who acted on behalf of the Ashanti kingdom, or even to cut off their heads. Inside, the various rooms are bathed in darkness and require a few minutes of acclimatization for vision. Each part has its function revealed by the guide. In a woman's room are stacked many canaries and calabashes, the number of which generally reflects the hierarchical importance of this woman in relation to other women and concubines. The farthest room is the kitchen, installed under the only opening of the hut, which serves as a fireplace. The kitchen furniture is systematically integrated into the architecture (table, stove, etc.). It is plunged into the darkness of a hut that one becomes fully aware of the way of life of its inhabitants. Like the Lobi, the Gourounsi people are fascinating and the curious traveller will be able to get to know this culture, thanks to the help of the guide available to answer all questions. The roof terrace accessible by a wooden ladder or integrated into the architecture has several functions. While sheltering the hut, it allows to observe and defend oneself in height against possible enemy attacks. It is also traditionally used as a storage and drying place for cereals (millet, sorghum, maize) harvested during the year.

At the end of the visit, when leaving the concession, craftsmen present their work (decorated calabashes, musical instruments, slingshot, pottery, etc.). An opportunity to acquire some local handicraft products. For visitors wishing to discover the Kassena people in more depth, it is possible to buy several booklets and books from the guides on the meaning of the paintings, the history of this people or the Kassena language (sold from 3,000 to 6,500 FCFA).

It is also advisable to find out about opportunities to visit other concessions and villages (Tangasso, Boungou, potters' village, Nahouri peak, Guelwongo market on the border with Ghana...), to attend ceremonies (war dance, funeral...). Last advice for an introduction to Kassena culture: kanzaga, a traditional dish made from sorrel, groundnut and salt, is apparently simple but delicious.