PHNOM SAMPHEOU

A former religious centre famous for its Buddhist cave temples, the place was also used by the Khmer Rouge to carry out some mass massacres. No temple at the top of this mountain, but caves and ossuaries testifying to the madness of the communists, some Russian cannons too, remnants of the schism that opposed pro-Russian and pro-Chinese Marxists. Visiting Phnom Sampeou can be quite challenging during the hot hours of the day: it is wise to go early in the morning.

Access by the road to Païlin. Take the first dirt road on the left after the new Phnom Sampeou pagoda. We pass in front of the construction site of the future sculpted frieze of the Buddha's life: very impressive. If you are interested in the project, there is often someone to explain (and solicit your generosity). The project is expected to take seven years to complete: the project will be more than 112 m long and 52 m high. A little further on, you can see the staircase leading to Phnom. Entrust your vehicle to keep at one of the refreshments for 500 riels or take a drink.

Ascension of Phnom. Allow about 2 hours to visit the complex without delay: there are about 600 steps to reach the summit. We start by passing under a large door topped by a sampan. After about 230 steps, take the other direct access to the summit on the left: this route is a little shorter. 50 steps higher, the staircase makes a sharp turn to the south. Nice view to the north and the village. 40 steps further on, to the left, an elongated Buddha and climbing another forty steps, on the right, a staircase leads to the main cave which was the first to be built. It is better to take advantage of the cool morning weather to go directly to the summit and reserve the visit in the shade during the hot hours. A hundred steps higher, we go around the Chinese pagoda (460 steps in total) and climb another 30 steps to reach a crossroads: on the right the path (not developed) to the Killing Caves; on the left, to the summit. After 40 slightly steep steps, you can see an old cannon on the right. The former pagoda and an abandoned building next door occupy the terrace. On the right, we go down a staircase leading to a small esplanade. From there, when looking up to the top, on the right, there is a hazardous path that descends through a rock slide to undeveloped caves... and, on the left, a 140-step staircase leading to a cave (or tunnel) in which there are some recent statues. The other side is exited by a staircase leading to two paths. The one on the right goes down into the undeveloped caves (monkey colony, be careful). The one on the left accesses the top. The ascent ends by passing between a sala chhan where there are often monks and the large golden stupa whose tip is the current summit. A colourful temple, of recent construction, occupies the terrace. Very beautiful view to the south (Banon) and east (Stung Sangker). Very beautiful sunrise with sometimes mist on the rice fields. Another small terrace contains a few recent or unfinished buildings. While searching, there are beautiful views of the centre of Phnom, the forest or the caves.

Killing Caves. A steep, partially cemented road allows 4x4s and motorcycles to approach the Killing Caves temple from the south: this significantly reduces the climb. Going down to the crossroads above the Chinese pagoda, leave the refreshment bar on the left and continue straight ahead. We descend a path for about 200 steps and cross the future direct access under development (currently only accessible by 4x4). We go up a path traced in the scree (beware of the ankles). There is a beautiful tree in the middle of this path. After about 150 steps, we see a staircase leading to a recently built golden seated Buddha. To the left of the Buddha, a staircase descends to a cemented path. When you turn right, you quickly reach a staircase that leads down to the main Killing Cave. To the left of the stairs is an ossuary containing the skeletons of the people who were killed by throwing them from the top of the cave. On the right, there is a reclining Buddha. Opposite, beautiful view towards Phnom Krapeu. On the left, access to a pagoda and, in front of it, to a second cave also containing an ossuary.

Main cave. Take the path again in the scree, and to go back up, there are two paths that will arrive either at the level of the Chinese pagoda, or at the crossroads above. A path of about 150 m leads to the staircase that leads down into the "cave". To the right of the stairs, two golden Buddhas standing in the shade of a banyan tree. Behind them, a small cave with a sitting Buddha. Opposite, a large elongated Buddha is being realized. On the left, sheltered by a vault, is the former "residence" of a hermit. We can see different small buildings, a staircase carved into the rock that leads to a natural balcony and the entrance to a labyrinth of caves. To visit them, a good lamp is essential. Going up the stairs, take the left track that leads to the stairs you met on the way up. Depending on the time of arrival, you can admire either a beautiful sunrise from the summit, or the first glimmers of sunlight on the stupa and the temple at the summit.