MISSING CITY OF SAMBOR PREI KUK

History. Sambor Prey Kuk, the first capital of Kambuja in the 6th century, is located about thirty kilometers from Kompong Thom. Sambor Prey Kuk, cradle of the pre-Angkorian civilization, is located halfway between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, in the middle valley of the Mekong, on the banks of the river (since dried up) Stung Sen which flows into the Tonle Sap. Previously overshadowed by the majesty of Angkor, this site with 106 temples spread over a radius of 5 km, is now accessible to tourists.

It was in the 6th century that the Khmers of Chenla formed the nation of Kambuja. From Sambor Preï Kuk, they imposed their control on the plains of the Great Lake and the Lower Mekong, from Lopburi (in present-day Thailand), to Wat Phu (Laos plain) and the southern region of Vietnam.

According to the Chinese Annals, the lands of the kingdom were particularly fertile thanks to an original development: the inhabitants of the time controlled the water resources thanks to artificial ponds(srah) dug everywhere in the region, allowing to feed the rice fields during the dry season. This agricultural technique was later optimized by the Angkorian kings.

The agricultural prosperity allowed Kambuja to develop into a powerful state, distinguished by an original architecture, of Indian inspiration... first steps of Khmer art.

"At Sambor Preï Kuk, one finds for the first time in Southeast Asia an architectural model typically inspired by Indian cosmogony: an enclosure that gathers five temples, of which the central one symbolizes Mount Meru, marking the heart of the capital. Some of the bas-reliefs seem to be copied from Indian friezes: the lion motif that is often found, or certain characters whose faces are adorned with Shiva's moustaches as in the Moha Russey ashram," explains Nouth Narang, Minister of Culture and Fine Arts.

The site had been explored by French archaeologists before Pol Pot's regime... " France was primarily interested in Angkor, but Bernard Philippe Groslier, of the French School of the Far East, had however begun an inventory interrupted by the arrival of the Khmer Rouge, "reports the Minister of Culture. Discovered in 1894 by Adhémard Leclère, the site of Sambor Preï Kuk was for the first time brought to the knowledge of the public by Pon le Niais (1913), a Cambodian tale by Jeanne Leuba:

"No one knew like him this ancient capital whose splendid ruins litter the forest with admirable sculptures. This immense religious city of the disappeared ages, with its royal tower guarded by lions, its circular or octagonal temples in which the dull flight of the bats rustles the darkness of vertiginous vaults; its cells in monolithic slabs; its walls chiseled with enormous escutcheons where confused beasts fight against men ; its collapsed doorways whose sandstone pedestals keep on their smooth faces inscriptions in a forgotten language; its sacred basins framed with red bai kriem, where sumptuous deployments of stoops still descend to the cutting grasses and aquatic rushes that finish drying up the lustrous waters of yesteryear.. "

Now, the temples are partly dislocated by vegetation: built in bricks adjusted thanks to a natural resin, most of the monuments have collapsed and the carved stones lie under the big trees. "We started by clearing the brush. Then we collect the stone blocks to store them in a reserve that will become the site's museum in Kompong Thom."

Extract from Cambodge Soir, Grégoire Rochigneux.

Excursion to the ruins of Sambor Preï Kuk. Unless you are a motorcycle enthusiast, it is best to hire the services of an (experienced) moto-dop in Kompong Thom. The tour can be done in very safe conditions, but you can always ask for information in Kompong Thom before starting the ride. Count on a full day if you are an enthusiast and wish to take your time to soak up the place. In this case, remember to bring a picnic, unless you can make do with two small rustic restaurants, 4 or 5 km from the site on the main track, right next to the police station... Otherwise the visit can be done more quickly in half a day. The guides, organized in guilds, usually give very interesting information in a tour of about an hour.

Quite extensive, Sambor Preï Kuk is however much less imposing than the city of Angkor. As it is, Sambor Preï Kuk is an unforgettable experience, a paradise of tranquility compared to Angkor. No one for a league around. The silence of the forest oppresses and bewitches at the same time. Go through the remains scattered in the forest, but do not stray too far from the paths, you never know.

The central archaeological site comprises three groups of buildings - north, south and west - built of brick, sandstone and laterite, surrounded by collapsed enclosures, and scattered in a sparse forest.

Each of the main sanctuaries, enclosed in a large enclosure, is surrounded by secondary buildings. Isolated temples are found between these groups, corresponding to the cult of linga (Çiva) or Brahmanism (Bhava dynasty of the 6th and 7th centuries). Some will appreciate the specific character of 6th century Khmer art, notably the lions guarding the entrance to one of the temples: heavy curly manes frame a grimacing mask. The collected body is of great primitive strength. They look different from their fellow creatures at the entrance to Angkor Wat.

Apart from the temples themselves, there was a real metropolis to the west, as aerial photographs attest. The western boundary of this city can be identified by a double earthen embankment and a reservoir to the south. No archaeological research has yet been undertaken on the city itself.

A fourth group of temples lies to the north - Robang Romeas - dating from the eleventh century and having nothing to do with the Sambor Preï Kuk site, according to experts. This site includes a large three-chambered temple with laterite walls and pillars, preceded by a porch.

According to the Chinese Annals, Içanapura was a famous capital, judge for yourself: "Içanavarman took up residence in the city of Içanapura, populated by more than twenty thousand families. In the middle of the city stands the great hall where the king gives audience and holds his court... Every three days, the sovereign solemnly goes to the audience hall on a bed made of five kinds of scented wood and adorned with seven precious stones and metals. Above the bed, there is a pavilion stretched with magnificent fabrics, the columns of which are made of veined wood and the walls of ivory strewn with golden flowers. The whole of this bed and the pavilion form a kind of small palace at the bottom of which is suspended a disc with golden rays in the shape of flames. A golden incense burner, which two men maintain, is placed in front. The king wears a red cotton belt that falls to his feet. He covers his head with a tiara loaded with gold and gems, with pendants of pearls. On his feet are sandals of leather and sometimes ivory; on his ears, golden pendants. His dress is always made of a very fine white cloth. The great officers or ministers are five in number; their costume is almost similar to that of the king. The subordinate officers are very numerous. Those who appear before the king touch the ground three times with their foreheads at the bottom of the steps of the throne. If the king calls them and orders them to go up the steps, they kneel down with their hands crossed on their shoulders. The great mandarins will sit in a circle around the prince to deliberate on the affairs of the kingdom. When the session is over, they kneel again, prostrate themselves and withdraw. More than a thousand guards clad in breastplates and armed with spears are ranged at the foot of the throne steps, in the palace halls, at the gates and peristyles."