CHIRRIPÓ NATIONAL PARK

Climbing Cerro Chirripó, which rises to an altitude of 3,820 m, requires good physical condition and preparation. It generally takes two or three days to climb from San Gerardo de Rivas, a small town on the border of Chirripó National Park, 20 km east of San Isidro de El General, with at least one night in a refuge. The main trail, the most frequently used, starts here, exactly 3 km from Hotel El Pelicano, and a few meters from Hotel Urán. The Crestones Valley is around 14.5 km from San Gerardo de Rivas. The trail is well-marked, and there's no need for a guide on this route. It takes an average of 8 hours to reach the Base Crestones hut (3,400 m). An early start in the morning is highly recommended. The final ascent takes place on the second day, with a pre-dawn start.

The climb is fantastic despite its difficulty. You'll cross pastures, then mid-altitude tropical vegetation. Then comes the thick rainforest, with its trunks thickened by epiphytic plants and ferns, from which occasionally emerge slender oaks that can reach 50 metres in height. The fauna is astonishingly varied and, once again, you'll need to be patient (and discreet) to spot a tiny frog or squirrel, which are harder to catch than the long-haired, silky, lemon-yellow caterpillar. The bird song you hear most clearly is that of the jilguero, a goldfinch that lives only in the upper reaches of tropical rainforests. After a few hours' walking, halfway along the trail, just after Llano Bonito and at the start of the longest slope, you'll find a small stream where you can replenish your water supply, but it's likely to run dry in dry weather, so don't count on it too much. The trail then becomes more difficult, and you'll be constantly climbing. Take a break every kilometer. The first mountain is called Monte Sin Fé (or "faithless mountain"), perhaps because of the arduous ascent. The forest gradually changes, vegetation becomes sparser and moss appears on the trees, signifying the climatic transition due to altitude. The large clearings in the vegetation date back to a fire that unfortunately destroyed over 2,000 hectares of forest in 1992. This fire was probably caused by the carelessness of campers, so be extra vigilant and observe the basic rules of the forest (in fact, don't throw anything on the ground). You'll reach the refuge by mid-day. A word of advice: don't take any risks and don't decide to leave for the rest of the climb on the same day. If you do, you'll certainly regret it! Make sure you book a night in a refuge.

Los Crestones refuge. The camp has small 4-bed dormitories. It's cold and damp at night. So pack a good sleeping bag. Blankets and towels are available for hire. You can also take a shower, with cold, even icy, water. Meals are generous and comforting (reservations are essential). Electricity at suppertime. Lights out at 8pm. If the refuge is available, you can plan two nights to explore the surrounding area. Many hikes are possible from Los Crestones.

The summit. Hikers usually set off before daybreak and... the arrival of clouds. If you set off from base camp at 2:30 a.m. (equipped with headlamps), you'll reach the summit around 4-5 a.m.. The terrain at the start is fairly flat, and the kilometers to the summit follow each other quite well. The last climb, however, is quite strenuous, and you'll have to use your hands to climb up. From the summit of Chirripó, it's said that you can see both oceans, east and west, but only in good weather and with good eyes. You'll then return to the base camp for a hearty breakfast, before taking the same route back to the village.

Alternative route. Starting out from San Jerónimo - Sabana de los Leones, 27 km south of San Isidro de El General, a new, less-frequented but more strenuous route leads to the summit. On the first day, you'll hike 16 km (approx. 10 hours) through a magnificent tropical rainforest to the mystical Sabana de Los Leones and the Crestones base for your first night. The ascent of Mount Chirripo takes place the following day, with a second night in a refuge and the descent on the third day. An official guide from the Aturena association (www.aturena.com) is required for this itinerary. Departures are Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays exclusively from San Jerónimo.

Equipment. You'll need warm but light clothing, a good sleeping bag, water, energy food, a stove (for those who prefer camping in the refuge), as it's forbidden to light a fire in the park, binoculars (essential during observation stops), a compass and a good map, if you're on your own. To carry this equipment, you can hire a mule (at the same time as a guide) from the park wardens. Annual rainfall ranges from 2,700 to 6,000 mm; temperatures from 5°C to 19°C.