CHIRRIPÓ NATIONAL PARK

It is necessary to plan at least five days for this extraordinary expedition from San José, of which only one day is spent on the summit of Cerro Chirripó. The first trail, the most used, is 16 kilometers long and requires between seven and sixteen hours of ascent. For this reason, it is strongly recommended to leave early in the morning. Every 2 kilometers, a sign informs you about the altitude to be covered and the number of kilometers you have to breathe and sweat before collapsing at the top.

The climb is fantastic despite the difficulty. It begins by crossing pastures, then a tropical vegetation of average altitude. The rainforest, very thick, comes next with its lot of trunks thickened by epiphytes and ferns from which emerge from time to time slender oaks that can reach 50 meters high. The fauna is surprisingly varied and, once again, you have to be patient (and discreet) to spot a tiny frog or a squirrel, which are more difficult to catch than the long-haired lemon caterpillar. The bird song you hear most distinctly is that of a goldfinch that lives only in the higher reaches of the rainforests, the jilguero. After a few hours of walking, just after the place called Llano Bonito and at the beginning of the longest slope, there is a small stream that allows you to get water, but it may be dry in dry periods, so don't count on it too much. The first mountain is called Monte Sin Fé (or "mountain without faith"), perhaps because of the difficult climb. The forest changes little by little, the vegetation becomes thinner and the mosses appear on the trees, signifying the climatic transition due to the altitude. The large clearings in the vegetation date from a fire that unfortunately destroyed more than 2,000 hectares of forest in 1992. This fire was probably caused by the carelessness of campers, so be extra vigilant and observe the basic rules of the forest (in fact, by not throwing anything on the ground). After a walk of about an hour and a half, a cave provides shelter for five or six people in case of heavy rain or for the night. A little further on, a strange natural event seems to have folded into a fan a rock formation which dominates the three huts promised since the beginning. They are equipped with a wooden floor and a stove for the use of which a pile of dead wood is normally made available, but it is better to bring your own small stove. You should also bring a good sleeping bag, because the nights are very cool, not to say downright cold, at an altitude of 3,500 meters. The summit is 4 kilometers away, after the Valle de los Conejos ("Valley of the Rabbits"), from where it is possible to climb the second highest peak, Cerro Ventisqueros, or other peaks that are quite easily accessible. At the Los Crestones refuge, you will be welcomed by guards in polar clothes. The dormitories have six to eight bunk beds. Take a bottom bunk to avoid drips that filter through leaks in the roof. The architect of the place built a cave-hut where, at night, it is colder than outside (from 0°C to 2°C in August). Remember to bring your provisions. You still have to reach the summit and this is easily done. The next day, count then between one hour and one hour and a half (do not take any risk and do not decide to leave for the rest of the ascent the same day. With the tiredness, you would regret it for sure!). From the top of Chirripó, it is said that it is possible to see both oceans, east and west, but only in good weather and with good eyes. If you are one of the lucky ones, you should sign the golden book that is usually inserted between two rocks in a small metal box. It's like finding the treasure of the hunt!

To get back down, most hikers choose to follow the same path they took to get up. However, it is possible to go down the northern slope, the one that overlooks the flooded valley of Las Morenas and heads towards Cerro Urán and El Camino de los Indios, which, as its name indicates, has always been frequented almost exclusively by indigenous Indians. Apart from these little-used trails, there are a few others that are marked on the detailed maps sold at the park entrance and highly recommended. But these trails are less well-maintained and unmarked, so use caution and venture out only if your guide knows them well.

To prepare for the climb, you should bring warm but light clothing, a good sleeping bag, water, energy food, a stove because it is forbidden to light a fire in the park, binoculars (indispensable during observation stops), a compass and a good map, or rather four if you prefer topographic maps (which are not so necessary), because, by chance of the cartography, the site of Chirripó is cut out between four topographic plates; the maps sold at the park entrance are sufficient. To carry this equipment, it is possible to rent a mule (along with a guide) by contacting the park guards. Annual rainfall varies from 2,700 to 6,000 mm; temperatures from 5°C to 19°C.