RUTA DE LAS CASCADAS
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Route to discover a magnificent waterfall and enjoy the fresh spray coming from it
The Baños region boasts some sixty waterfalls! This is the perfect opportunity to cycle along this famous road to Pailón del Diablo or, for the more adventurous, to Puyo (the gateway to the jungle). Twenty kilometers from Baños, you can admire the waterfalls from the road. Bike hire costs between US$10 and US$20 per day, depending on the quality of the bike (about 3-4 hours to Pailon del Diablo if you take your time, and 6 hours to Puyo). At first, the asphalt road is disappointing, with too few areas reserved for cyclists, heavy traffic, cars spitting gas in your face and the landscape marred by factories and dams. But the further you go, the prettier the road becomes. It's at the Manto de la Novia waterfall that the ride starts to pay off. Be careful, only take the1st tunnel and bypass the others! We pass the huge Agoyán dam, which supplies a large part of the country's energy. Further on, at the entrance to the tunnels, there's a superb view of the mighty waterfall. Along the way, you can stop and try the pulleys (tarabita: US$2 per person), but we don't recommend the first one (Rio Blanco), which is small and not really spectacular. The operators who rent bicycles from Baños will all offer to pick you up in a motorized vehicle at your point of arrival. Don't hesitate, as the return journey, which is permanently uphill, is best reserved for the more athletic!
Waterfalls to discover include
Río Blanco: at approx. km 7, with tarabita
Manto de la Novia: after Agoyán, you pass a spectacular waterfall over 60 m high, around 12 km from Baños. A tarabita (approx. US$2) will take you over the waterfall for an exceptional view of the cascade and the Río Pastaza valley. On the other side of the río, you can enjoy beautiful walks in the mountains, where you'll see fishponds where trout are raised. Another option is to descend to the foot of the waterfall. You cross the river on a fragile-looking suspension bridge (which is in fact used every day by locals). You can take your photos in front of this magnificent waterfall and enjoy the fresh spray coming from it. You can also enjoy a cool drink in the nearby establishment. Hummingbirds have taken up residence here for your enjoyment.
Río Verde : km 16 (barely signposted). This hamlet boasts a formidable waterfall. A little further on, at Mavhay, there's a canopy (or zip-line).
Pailón del Diablo: the most impressive waterfall... A must-see ! Walk down a path that leads to the waterfalls. At the bottom, walk to the end and wriggle your way (some passages are 80 cm high, so you can imagine the complexity for taller people!) behind the torrent... Admission: US$2. On-site food and souvenir stall (try the empanadas sold at the entrance to the site!). On the way back, you can take the bus or a pick-up truck. Access every day from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Since 2022, the Pailon del Diablo has been illuminated in all its colors from sunset onwards, offering a spectacular sight. Some Chivas now offer night-time visits, a rare opportunity to see the ruta de las cascadas from another angle. If you're motorized, take advantage of the opportunity to dine at the Miramelindo hosteria restaurant, located right next door, where the food is extremely good in an artistic atmosphere that is rare in the area.
El otro lado. A superb excursion! Take the road to Puyo for 20 km (possible by bus or bike). From the village of Río Verde, signposted by houses and clear signs, a steep path leads down to the Río Pastaza, through lush vegetation to the Paílon del Diablo waterfall. The impressive flow makes you feel very small. At the site, a fragile bridge spans the tumultuous waters of the river, to the roar of nearby waterfalls. After the bridge, the path leads directly to the Otro Lado (literally "the other side"), a totally unexpected stopover. You can go there after the Pailon del Diablo and have a drink or lunch before heading back.
Machay. The only waterfall where you can take a dip. After this several-kilometre circuit, a very pleasant stop. The Machay cascade is a spectacular forty-meter-high waterfall, complemented by another small waterfall with pools of pure water. Its crystal-clear water comes from the Machay River, which flows down through a subtropical forest, forming a series of waterfalls. The tour begins at the Manantial del Dorado waterfall and ends at the Machay waterfall, which later joins the Pastaza river; this tour takes 2-3 hours, covering some 7 km. The water of the Machay River is transparent and at a temperature of 10°C.
Other waterfalls to see around Baños: Ines Maria, a beautiful walk, about 4 km from the town center. Cross the San Martín bridge and continue along the track; take the fork on the right that descends to the foot of the waterfall. The climb back up is more difficult!
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