HANUMAN DHOKA

The Hanuman Dhoka royal complex extends over 5 hectares, but is nested within Durbar Square. This complex of palaces, temples and courtyards has several wings, but was badly damaged by the 2015 earthquake. It's not the first time: before the 1934 earthquake, the palace had 35 courtyards. The eastern wing dates back to the ^16th century, and is the oldest part enlarged by King Mahendra Malla (1560-1574). He commissioned the construction of Hanuman Dhoka's oldest temples in Newari style: the Jagannath temples, Kotilingeshwara Mahadev (a stone temple to Lord Shiva), Mahendreswara temple and the magnificent Taleju temple. In the ^18th century, King Prithvi Narayan Shah added four watchtowers (Lowan Chowk. The royal family lived here until 1886, when they moved to the Narayanhiti Palace.

Nasal Chowk courtyard and Panch Mukhi Hanuman temple. Passing through the Golden Gate, you enter a large rectangular courtyard, the most imposing of the ten courtyards that make up the Hanuman Dhoka complex. It was in this courtyard that King Birendra was crowned in 1975. Nasal (meaning "to dance" in Bhasha) refers to the image of Shiva dancing, placed on the northeast side of the square in a whitewashed chamber where dancing ceremonies took place during the Malla period, when it was built. As soon as you enter, on the left, don't miss the representation of Narasimha, reincarnation of Vishnu, half-man, half-lion, a kind of griffin devouring the demon Hiranyakashipu. The buildings surrounding the courtyard date from the Rana period. Linger over the Sisha Baithak, the audience hall of the Malla kings. The open veranda houses the royal throne and portraits of the Shah kings.

The statue of the Hindu god who gave his name to the complex is easily recognizable from the entrance: the monkey god sculpted in 1768 with one face painted red is adorned with a red cape and umbrella. The general of the monkey army in the Râmâyana epic saved Princess Sita from the clutches of the demon-king of Ceylon. Since then, he has become the symbol of marital fidelity, and every new couple comes to him with an offering of sindur, a red dust mixed with mustard oil, a vermilion paste that now disfigures him. The Panch Mukhi Hanuman temple (the five-faced monkey god) stands in the northeast corner of Nasal Chok. Its unique design of five circular roofs is typical of Nepal and dates back to the late Malla or early Sha dynasty period in the ^19th century. It withstood the 2015 earthquake and has since been restored. The temple priest is the only person who can enter this sanctuary.

Mul Chowk courtyard and Taleju temple. This courtyard is dedicated to Taleju Bhawani. It is reserved for religious rites and Hinduism (so you won't be able to enter). In the center, the Taleju temple is guarded by the goddesses of the Ganges and Yamuna rivers. It's one of the most impressive in Hanuman Dhoka. This tall pagoda houses the mysterious divinity, the royal goddess of the Malla kings. Hindus are admitted here once a year on the festival of Dasain, when sacrifices are performed.

Mohan Chowk. This is the most spectacular courtyard. Built by King Pratap Malla in 1649, it represents the royal private quarters. Malla kings had to be born here in order to legitimately wear the crown, and were the only ones allowed to enter. Note the impressive golden spout fountain, richly carved with birds and animals, known as the Sun Dhara. Malla kings used to perform their daily ablutions here, using fresh water from the Budhanilkantha hills. The goddess in charge of bringing the Ganges to Earth, Bhagiratha, is also depicted, kissing her knees and contemplating the surface of the baths.

Sundari Chowk, Jagannath temple. The Jagannath temple is the oldest (^17th century) and most impressive of all, standing two storeys high. Linger over the details: it is adorned at eye level with erotic sculptures. Take a close look at the long inscription on a long, parchment-like stone, which forms the impressive decorative background of a fountain with a drinking water reservoir called hiti or jahru in Newar. The inscription contains paragraphs in 15 different languages. It is due to King Pratap Malla who, in 1664, left this enigma indicating the location of a treasure.

Lohan Chowk. This courtyard was bounded by four red towers built by King Prithvi Narayan Shah, representing the valley's four Newar imperial cities: the tower at Basantapur (Kathmandu) and the tower at Bhaktapur (Lakshmi Bilas) collapsed in 2015, but are now almost completely rebuilt, while the tower at Kirtipur and the tower at Patan (Lalitpur) are still standing.

Tribhuwan Museum. Located in a part of the palace built by the Rana kings in the ^19th century. It was damaged by the 2015 earthquake but has now been reopened. It features exhibits from King Birendra's grandfather. The tour begins with the Shah dynasty, the last clan to rule Nepal, until 2006. Sculptures, several thrones, coronation jewels, weapons, period furniture and a numismatic collection are also on display. King Tribhuwan's bedroom, study and personal effects are also on display.