SWAYAMBHUNATH STUPA

Swayambhunath is one of the most important and oldest Buddhist temples (2,500 years old) in the Kathmandu Valley. For Buddhist Newars, Swayambhu is the holiest of pilgrimage sites. Most of Swayambhu's iconography is in the Vajrayana tradition of Newar Buddhism. This does not prevent the temple from being visited by Buddhists of all schools, as well as Hindus.

Orientation. The complex boasts a giant stupa and a myriad of Licchavi sanctuaries and temples. There's also a monastery, the national museum and a library, all of more recent construction. The stupa stands out from afar, with its white dome topped by a huge golden spire. The eyes of the all-seeing Buddha seem to reign over this valley. You'll have to earn your way up a staircase of 365 steps (the main entrance to the east), some of them very high! Another option is to drive to the parking lot via the south-west entrance. But climbing the steps is synonymous with the spiritual and physical elevation needed to admire this marvel and soak up the faith of the pilgrims, literally taking their breath away. The view of Kathmandu from the top is breathtaking.

Practical. At the top and bottom of the stairs, vendors selling coconut, fruit and cold drinks invite you to take a thirst-quenching break. There are also small cafés (including one with a rooftop) for a welcome break at the top and, of course, plenty of small stores selling Nepalese art, religious objects and souvenirs.

The legend. It is said that the valley was once a lake. At its center floated a lotus generating blue light, the manifestation of the primordial Buddha, Swayambhu, the "spontaneous". With a stroke of his wisdom sword, Manjushri opened the mountain, allowing the waters to flow and the light of an eternal flame to reveal itself at the top of the hill. It was here that he raised the stupa of Swayambhunath. The spire has been restored with 20 kg of gold, a renovation funded by the Nyingma Tibetan Meditation Center in California in 2008. It suffered damage in the 2015 earthquake, but everything has since been renovated.

History. According to the Gopālarājavaṃśāvalī, it was founded by King Mānadeva's (464-505 AD) great-grandfather, King Vṛsadeva, around the beginning of the^5th century AD. This coincides with what a damaged stone inscription found on the site says, indicating that King Vrsadeva ordered its construction in 640. Its foundations appear to be much older: emperor Ashoka is said to have built here in the ^3rd century BC! It was a Hindu monarch, Pratap Malla, King of Kathmandu, who ordered the construction of the main staircase in the ^17th century. The stupa was completely renovated in 2010, its ^15th restoration in almost 1,500 years of existence!

The stupa is the Buddhist monument par excellence. This white dome surmounted by a golden spire takes on different forms and names depending on the era and country, but the basic symbolism is unchanging. When the historical Buddha, Sakyamuni, went into Parinirvana, his body was cremated and his ashes divided into eight. This led to the creation of the first eight stupas, each linked to an episode in Buddha's life. The stupa has retained its function as a reliquary for the ashes or embalmed bodies of enlightened beings, or a garment or object that belonged to them. The stupa symbolizes the five elements, and should be walked around in a clockwise direction, the gyratory direction of the universe. This immense white dome has five golden Buddha shrines at its base, each with a Buddha statue inside. The Panch Buddhas are Buddhas in the Tantrayana metaphorical sense: Vairochana (the master of the temple), Akshobhya (the cosmic element of consciousness), Ratna Sambhava (the cosmic element of sensation), Amitabha (the cosmic element of Sanjna) and Amoghsiddhi (the cosmic element of confirmation). The dome is surmounted by the harmika, representing the Earth, with both eyes and eyebrows painted on its four faces, and thus looking in all four directions. Buddha's eyes" represent wisdom and compassion. The number one(ek), which resembles a question mark, signifies the unity of the primordial Buddha. Note the spiritual "^3rd eye", the red dot; this is the eye of knowledge. It is said that when Buddha preaches, cosmic rays emanate from the third eye. Note also the five pentagonal toranas above each of the harmika's four sides, with reliefs of Buddha, responding to the five Buddhas at the stupa's base. Resting on the cubic base, the half-sphere represents water, fire is symbolized by a pyramid, while air takes the form of a semicircle facing upwards. Next come the ten Bodhisattva lands to be crossed until the Buddha state is reached, symbolized by his three bodies(kaya). Nirvana, the great liberation, is represented by the umbrella that caps the building, surmounted by the sun and moon, Yang and Yin, symbols of knowledge and wisdom.

At the top of the grand staircase stands a giant vajra, symbolizing the durability of Buddhist doctrine, and two lions guarding the entrance. Turning in a gyratory direction around the stūpa, we discover a jumble of temples, monasteries, a museum and five small shrines. The great stupa is surrounded by a profusion of religious monuments.

Vasundhara Mandir temple. This is the first temple to be reached by the grand staircase. Dedicated to the goddess Earth. The temple is closed, but it is said that throwing a few coins over the threshold increases one's wealth. Pass the Agam house, a shelter for pilgrims where they are offered food. Then comes the small sanctuary dedicated to Vayu, the Vedic god of wind and storms. Beautiful statues of Tara face the stupa. On the second floor of the adjacent building is the Deva Dharma Mahavihar monastery: shoes must be removed before entering. Occasionally, an officiant crouching on the ground performs complicated rites in front of the half-open door of the very popular temple dedicated to Harati, a form of Ajima, the goddess who protects against smallpox. Buddhists see her as the incarnation of Maya Devi, the mother of the Buddha. Further back, the small sanctuary of Agnipur, guarded by two lions, is dedicated to the Vedic god of fire, Agni. Leaning against the wall, the beautiful, sober Gandhara-style statue of the standing Buddha is one of the oldest sculptures in the area. The Nagpur sanctuary, meanwhile, is a simple basin rarely filled with water, dedicated to the underground Naga deities.

Karmapa Sri Karma Raj Mahavihar Monastery. Located in the southeast corner of the kora, this Tibetan Buddhist monastery is still in operation, and it's not unusual to hear trumpets and oboes sounding. The entrance is overflowing with butter lamps lit by pilgrims. It's possible to walk around to the left, in semi-darkness, where statues of Manjushri and his consort Sarasvati can be made out.

Shantipur. You'll find this to the northeast of the stupa, past the Agni shrine and down a few steps. This is a place dedicated to the element of space. It is said that, in the^{5th century} , the hermit Shanti Shri walled himself up here, only to reappear when the time was right... He's still here.

Sarasvati. Behind the Vayu sanctuary, a path fluttering with mantra-covered prayer flags leads to the parking lot and nearby hill dedicated to Sarasvati, goddess of wisdom and learning. A white stupa marks the spot. During Basant Panchami, the festival of knowledge (or spring festival), held in February, schoolchildren gather here to have their penholders and inks blessed and increase their chances of passing exams.

Buddha Amideva Park. This shrine houses three giant golden statues: those of Sakyamuni Buddha, of the four-armed Chenresig, the Tibetan Bodhisattva of Compassion from whom the Dalai Lama is said to emanate, and of Guru Rinpoche. It is located behind, below and to the west of the Swayanbhunath hill.