TEMPLE DE PASHUPATINATH

Pashupatinah is a highly symbolic temple and pilgrimage site for Nepalese and international Hindus alike. It is a Unesco World Heritage Site. It is dedicated to Pashupati, the incarnation of Shiva as "master of animals". Two major Hindu celebrations take place here, Maha Shivaratri and Teej. As you enter the 246-hectare sanctuary estate, with its many temples and ashrams, you'll find flower, incense and offering stores along the street leading to the temple.

Legend. It is said that Shiva, tired of his divine duties, hid in a forest on the east bank of the Bagmati River in the form of an antelope. Vishnu is said to have forced him back into his divine form by grabbing him by a horn, which then broke off and fell into the earth. The broken horn was worshipped as a linga, but over time it was buried and lost. One day, a young farmer noticed that one of his cows was spilling all its milk here. He decided to dig and discovered the linga, whose cult began with the construction of a temple.

The Golden Temple. This was built in the ^17th century by King Bhupatindra Malla. It is the oldest Hindu temple in Kathmandu, and was first built in 400 AD under Prachanda Deva, a Licchavi king. Its triple golden roof is visible from the entrance, but the temple grounds are off-limits to non-Hindus. This is clearly posted on the door, and police officers will call you to order if necessary. However, just cross over to the monkey-populated opposite bank and, from a hill covered with eleven stone reliquaries containing the linga, you can see inside the sanctuary with Nandi at its center.

Body cremations. Cross the bridge between the temple and the hill to see the famous cremation pyres. Below you'll find the Bagmati River, a sacred tributary of the Ganges. Women come here to purify themselves and put on a new sari at the end of each menstrual cycle and during festivals. To the right of the bridge, at the foot of the Golden Temple, are the cremation ghats reserved for the royal family, generally decorated with flowers. To the left are the people's ghats, made up of stones on which the pyres are placed. Every day, around eighty bodies are burned on these pyres. Out of respect for the bereaved, you can see the pyres from the hill opposite, but don't get too close. Sensitive souls, please refrain! At bridge level, ashes fly and the air is saturated with the smoke of bodies burning in the open air.

Sadhus. You'll come across many sadhus in Pashipatinah. These men live as ascetic lives, on the bangs of the world, thanks to the charitable donations of the faithful. They have renounced the world in their pursuit of liberation, giving up all attachment to material life to devote themselves solely to their spiritual quest. There are two main families of Sadhus: Shiva worshippers and Vishnu worshippers. These often elderly men can be recognized by their hair, often long dreadlocks, their long beards and their clothes. They wear a loincloth, a long tunic called longhi, as well as exuberantly colorful outfits. Their make-up is just as eccentric. You won't want to miss those who show off their beauty on your way, offering, for a few rupees, a photo with them and a blessing.