TRONGSA DZONG

This imposing fortress, built into the side of a cliff, dominates the gorge by some 500 metres, giving it an even more imposing appearance. Built on the site of an earlier Lhakhang in the ^15th century, the dzong was enlarged a century later by Shabdung Ngawang Namgyal, who wished to bring eastern Bhutan under the control of the central governor. Extended several times, it was severely damaged by the earthquake of 1897. The father of Bhutan's first monarch supervised the restoration work.

The history of this dzong is closely linked to that of the Wangchuck dynasty. According to tradition, the future sovereign must hold the position of penlop (governor) of Trongsa before acceding to the throne. The first two rulers even ruled from this fortress. The Trongsa dzong is a maze of over 20 lhakhangs (monasteries), many of which are unfortunately of little interest. On the other hand, the complexity of its architecture is astonishing. A temple to Jamba (Maitreya) houses a 6 m-high statue. In the oldest lhakhang, a chörten is said to be the tomb of the founder of the first monastery; it is surrounded by eight other smaller chörtens symbolizing the eight main stages in Buddha's life. Another lhakhang is dedicated to Vajrabhairava, the yak-headed god of death. It was built by King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck and, although recent, is well worth a visit for its rich and beautiful iconography.