DESCENT OF THE TSIRIBIHINA

The descent of the Tsiribihina River is an adventure for lovers of flora and fauna, of calm waves, infinite spaces, beautiful dreams, and the meeting of a rural population so endearing (the most intense memory of the descent). A wonderful adventure and a memorable experience. We set off from Miandrivazo to reach Belo-sur-Tsiribihina, 160 km at the slow pace of the river, amidst birds of every color, flocks of lemurs flitting from tree to tree, butterflies, chameleons, humpback ducks, teal, bats, crocodiles and orchids... We pass through numerous Sakalava villages. The descent can be made in two ways: by pirogue or by barge. Bivouacs take place on immense sandbanks... In short, magnificent memories in prospect!

Descent by pirogue. You can choose between two options: 3 days/2 nights to Antanambao or 4 days/3 nights to Belo-sur-Tsiribihina. The best way to ensure your trip runs smoothly is to use a local agency or one of the hotels on site. Robberies and assaults have occurred in the past, so it's imperative to ensure you have a guide you can trust. It is compulsory to register with the Miandrivazo town hall, along with your piroguier, before embarking on this adventure. Relative peace of mind in case anything goes wrong! Generally speaking, your guide will take care of the formalities for you. It's hard to give a fixed price for the whole trip, as it depends on the number of passengers. Expect to pay at least €150 per person (for 3 days), including meals, full camping gear, pirogue and the services of piroguier + guide. And even up to €200 for quality service. And don't forget to tip the piroguier, who will be going up the river afterwards! Remember to cover up well to protect yourself from the sun, and bring plenty of water. Of course, it's best to bring your own tent and sleeping bag. The canoe trip ends at Antanambao, from where you take a zebu cart to Antsiraraka (approx. 1h30 to 2h). A taxi-brousse can then take you to Tsimafana, from where you can cross the river to Belo, take a taxi-brousse to the Lodge de La Saline or Morondava, or head north to Bekopaka to see the Tsingy. A truck/taxi-brousse runs from Morondava to Antsalova, north of the park entrance, once or twice a week from April to November; it's best to check in advance to make sure there's room. Please note: it becomes increasingly difficult to paddle the river from early August onwards. From mid-September to the end of November, it even gets tricky. Expect to sweat blood and water, and probably stop along the way because you can't go any further.

Barge down. This is the comfortable option for young and old alike. Barges are motorboats, used in the early 1980s for freight (especially tobacco). They were later adapted for tourism. Today, they are equipped with a pilot cabin, galley, shaded lower deck and solarium. There are around twenty barges run by several Tana-based tour operators (fares are more or less aligned).

Most of the time, expedition departures are not exactly from Miandrivazo, but from the Masiakampy pier, a 1-hour 4x4 ride from the locality. Between March and April, however, it is sometimes possible to start the adventure in Miandrivazo (more convenient): ask your agency for details. It's worth noting that the barge, rudimentary though it is, is far more comfortable than the pirogue: you're already sheltered from the sun, which is usually very strong! What's more, whether you're on a pirogue or a barge, you'll always be camping on the same sandbanks..

Pirogue or barge? Without children, and with a minimum taste for adventure (relative, as we said), it's best to make the descent by pirogue, where the disadvantages can be offset by the surrounding silence, the definitive impression of being Indiana Jones, and a certain moral disorientation on approaching civilization (a very special feeling to experience). For barge tours, one of the most highly recommended service providers is Espace Mada.

An example of a trip by barge. On the first day, transfer to Masiakampy pier. Board a barge and begin the descent. Menabe landscape: mango trees, tobacco plantations, Sakalava villages. Entrance into the gorges. Bivouac on a large sandbank. On the second day, the descent continues. Stop at the immense Anosinampela waterfall (an entrance fee is required, included in the barge package, but extra if you opt for the pirogue) and a natural pool (ideal for a natural shower!). This stopover is sometimes possible on the first day. Then continue your descent. Birdwatching: teal, heron, kingfisher, humpback duck. Set up camp. In the evening, village entertainment with Sakalava and Cabosses songs (donations welcome). On the third day, we return to the river and finish the trip around midday.