LA VISITE DES TSINGY

In Bemaraha National Park, you can discover the superb Tsingy on a dozen single or combined tours. Here is a selection of the best options, in our opinion.

Short tours. These are fairly easy circuits, grouped around the village of Bekopaka. To familiarize yourself with the difficulties of walking in the Tsingy, it's advisable to do at least one of the smaller circuits before venturing onto the larger one. The two routes to the south of the park give walkers a chance to prove themselves before embarking on the larger circuit, and to gradually adapt to the Tsingy environment. These relatively easy walks (the main circuit, which is the most touristic, is nevertheless fitted out, and at some point you have to climb stairs) reveal limestone slabs, canyons and a series of 10-20 m-high diaclases. The only sounds that disturb the silence here are the calls of birds and lemurs. Attractive caves and corridors mark the karstic nature of the massif. These sites bear witness to ancient human presence. From the top of the diaclases, you can experience the sensation of emptiness. From the lookouts, the view of the Tsingy and the diversity of its vegetation is magnificent.

The Manambolo gorges circuit. This circuit takes you through steep gorges 50 to 80 metres high, covered with different types of vegetation (wet to very dry). In the gorges, the river is between 40 and 100 m wide, and can be reached by pirogue or canoe (optional and at an additional cost). This is an opportunity to visit caves with interesting limestone formations, populated by numerous small bats. The route includes a visit to the Vazimba tombs, then continues up to the cliffs along the right bank of the Manambolo. An ancient drawing of a zebu stands out in a rock shelter. The gorge and pirogue option takes around 1h30. This tour is best done in the morning, to avoid the sometimes strong afternoon wind.

Andadoany and Ankeligoa (Petits Tsingy) circuits. Get to grips with the massif's karstic relief through canyons, labyrinths, diaclases, caves... in other words, the fascinating mineral and plant world of the Tsingy. Botanical trail through dense dry semi-caducifolia forest. Beautiful viewpoints over the Tsingy. Circuits of 2 and 6 km respectively, for walks of around 4 to 5 hours. Note: the Tantely circuit is a shorter variant of the Andadoany circuit (2 km for 1 hour's trekking).

Anjohimanintsy circuit. You can choose between the simple option and the sporty option. This is a combination of all the smaller circuits around Bekopaka (notably Andadoany and Ankeligoa). One or two days of walking, with the option of bivouacking at the Ankidroadroa campsite. With the sporty option, you'll have to abseil down a limestone shaft at some point. If you're feeling sporty, don't hesitate.

Andamozavaky and Ranotsara (Grands Tsingy) circuits. Andamozavaky is located 17 km north of Bekopaka. Andamozavaky is a fairly difficult, rather sporty circuit, lasting around five or six hours. Although spectacular, it is now well laid out, and the work carried out is remarkable (support points, ropes, ladders, safety harnesses). That said, the circuit remains technical, and is not recommended for those suffering from claustrophobia or vertigo. It should also be noted that some of the passages between the walls are very narrow.

The Grand Circuit begins with a beautiful network of diaclases, continues through the heart of the Antsingy dry forest, and then passes through a canyon of impressive dimensions, giving access to a cave with walls studded with limestone formations. The presence of marine snail shells is a reminder of the Tsingy's oceanic origins. The last room of the cave is a conduit where, before 2 p.m., the sun's rays penetrate to create astonishing plays of light on the various limestone formations. A little further on is the heart of the Tsingy. The entrance to the Andamozavaky circuit is an ideal place to observe the great karst cordon, spectacular at sunset and sunrise.

The best way to approach this great circuit is to set off from Bekopaka in the afternoon, arriving at the observation site at sunset, then spending the night at the campsite (ten minutes from the circuit entrance).

The Ranotsara circuit takes 3 hours to reach the Grands Tsingy. We reach a summit (via a high footbridge) from where the view is very pretty. Unlike the previous circuit, which plunges into the heart of the Tsingy, this one offers a panoramic view.

It's possible to do both circuits in one long day, but good physical condition is essential, and you'll need to take the first 6-hour ferry on the Manambolo.

Berano circuit. This circuit is located to the north of the park, near Antsalova. It's sure to please caving enthusiasts. You can visit the labyrinth of underground galleries by pirogue. Allow 3 hours for a 3 km walk.

SIBE circuits. The Tsingy region offers many other attractions for hikers and lovers of beautiful landscapes, traditional culture and botany. Other circuits have been grouped together under the name "SIBE", meaning "sites of biological and ecological interest". They are all located to the west of Bekopaka, near the Mozambique Channel.

In general, you leave Bekopaka for the village of Soatana, then head for Lake Andranobe, a lakeside complex where you can take a pirogue ride. We spend the night in Masoarivo.

The next day, we visit Lake Antsamaka, a favorite spot for bird-watching, including pink flamingos (Samaka), herons, egrets... We continue on to the Tsimembo forest. Superb plant species, typical western dry forest, lemurs and fosa in their natural habitat. We finish with a visit to Lake Bemamba, where you can take a pirogue through labyrinths of reeds and water lilies, or through the superb mangroves of the Masoarivo estuary.

The trip can last from one to three days. Some sites are accessible by 4x4 during the dry season from May to November, but you'll often have to finish on foot. Soatana is 36 kilometers from Bekopaka (2 hours by car), Masoarivo 1 hour further, and Bemamba (the tour's terminus) around 2 hours 30 from Masoarivo.

We sleep with local people and eat typical Malagasy meals. Campsite available in Masoarivo.

How to get there. Entrance tickets can be purchased at the national park office, where you can also pick up your guide for excursions (this is also where you pay the guiding fee). Smart tip: in July/August, at the height of the season, there may not be enough guides, so you'll need to book one the day before.

The starting point for your visit to the national park is the village of Bekopaka, which is completely cut off during the rainy season. There are four ways to get there:

From Morondava, by 4x4 vehicle, from May to November, taking the track from Morondava to Belo-sur-Tsiribihina and then Bekopaka: allow at least 9h in all, as the track combines earth and sand and is totally deformed by the rains. Allow at least 3 days for the experience, 2 days for transport and 1 full day on site. It's possible to rent vehicles in Morondava, and almost all hotels can arrange your trip + stay. By public transport, it's easy to get to Belo, more difficult to continue to Bekopaka: trucks sometimes go there.

If you've just come down the Tsiribihina, you'll arrive in Belo and can reach Bekopaka in the same way.

If you've just come down the Manambolo, you'll arrive directly at the foot of the Tsingy, in Bekopaka.

If you don't have the time or don't want to embark on these mini-adventures, there's an airstrip at Antsalova that allows access and overflight of the site by small aircraft (from Tana). Another, 17 km north-west of Bekopaka, is also operational.