CENTRE-VILLE

In downtown Antalaha, enthusiasts can stop off at the artisanal shipbuilding yard. It's here that you'll learn the most about vanilla. You'll learn all about the different phases of production, from planting to the making of "boots", as well as the ancestral know-how of the craftsmen. The vanilla-weaving workshops are well worth a visit: the artisans form figurines by weaving the pods - how original!

From September to December, traditional exhumation ceremonies are reminiscent of those in Imerina or Sakalava country. Find out more at the fivondronana (town hall) or from your hotel or guide.

Recently restored, the seafront promenade between the residence and the boat harbour is dedicated to the past (beautiful colonial buildings, most of them in ruins). The weather station on a knoll to the west of the town offers a panoramic view after a walk through the countryside. Take a cab there and walk back down.

The main colorful markets are held on Thursdays in Tanambo and Tuesdays in Ankoalabe. Vanilla, coffee and cloves rub shoulders with all the seasonal fruits of the region. Baskets, mats, straw hats and handcrafted wooden boats are just some of the souvenirs you can take home with you.

Cap Est: The road here is beautiful (but also in bad shape); a stop at the vanilla plantations to learn a little more about the cultivation of this orchid is well worthwhile.