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Tsingy De L’ankarana, Madagascar
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2024
Recommended
2024

The Tsingy de l'Ankarana is a superb national park. As with most of Mada's national parks, guides are compulsory, with fixed guide fees. You can request one guide rather than another if you wish. There are only two entrances to the park (the3rd was recently abolished). The most common, and also the easiest to get to (all year round), is in the village of Mahamasina, on the RN 6 road leading to Ambilobe (east entrance), where entrance tickets are on sale. Allow at least 4 hours by bush cab from Diego (the road gets worse every month), 3 hours by 4x4. An all-day round trip should therefore be avoided wherever possible.

Another entrance is to the west, near the village of Amboandriky: access by sedan from June to December and by 4x4 from December to May via a track that leaves Isesy, a few kilometers before Ambilobe. You then reach Iharana Bush Camp.

Fady. There are certain things you must not do in the park. Discuss them with your guide.

A little geology and etymology. This massif emerged from the sea over a hundred million years ago (Quaternary volcanic activity). Since then, erosion has carved out an incredible network (or networks, we should say) of underground waters (over 110 km!). A more recent telluric movement is responsible for the presence of basaltic rocks and eruptive ash. In the meantime, rain eroded the limestone summit of the massif, eventually forming these strange, sharp ridges, like a chaos of discordant organs, known as "Tsingy". Some say that this word means "to walk on tiptoe", because it's very difficult to walk on ridges, and this theory seems the most credible..

Flora and fauna. The park is home to 11 species of lemur, including the crowned-headed lemur(Eulemur coronatus) and the bushy-haired lemur(Eulemur sanfordi), which can be seen near campsites in the early morning or late afternoon; and around 100 species of bird, including the variegated mesire(Mesitornis variegata), one of the rarest in the world. Bats (14 species, around half of all species in Madagascar), chameleons and crocodiles (60 species of reptiles and amphibians) are also part of this fascinating animal world.

The flora is not to be outdone, with Madagascar canarias and pandanus having a field day, and rupicolous vegetation (adapted to limestone rocks) is everywhere. You can also admire the adenia, an extraordinary liana, or the taimpapango, with its white bark.

Last but not least, the caves here are privileged meeting places between the living and the ancestors, for the inhabitants of the region. Every year, ritual ceremonies known as " Fidirana an-davaka " pay homage to the ancestors. And every five years, another ceremony, " Tsangan-tsaina ", is dedicated to "changing the mast": in fact, the mast on which the Antakarana flag flies. It takes place in the village of Ambatoharana. These ceremonies are very important to the locals. There's no problem attending, as long as you come with a healthy spirit and a desire to learn, discover and share. Please note that shoes and hats are fady.

Warning: the park is infested with scorpions. Don't go barefoot, be careful where you pitch your tent and don't forget aspivenin and serum if you're camping.

Did you know? This review was written by our professional authors.


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