Lleida is located in the heart of a fertile plain, a few kilometers from the border with Aragon. With its 140,000 inhabitants, it is the capital of one of the four provinces of Catalonia. Lleida can boast of having had a very rich history. It was a municipality under the Roman Empire, then the capital of a small Arab kingdom from the 8th to the 12th century. It was reconquered by the Catalans and became the residence of high ecclesiastical authorities from 1149. There are few traces left of this glorious past, except for the old cathedral, which alone is worth a visit. The city has become an important student city, and its nights are all the longer and more animated.
Let's start with a tour of the monuments and other visits to make. First, the Seu Vella. This venerable and sumptuous cathedral, an emblematic monument of Lleida, which celebrated its 800th anniversary in December 2003, is located on a small hill surrounded by the walls of an old ruined fortress and dominates the whole city from its elevated position. La Seu Vella was built on the site of an old mosque in the 13th century and has undergone many modifications up to the present day. Thus, its octagonal tower is an addition of the fourteenth century. Philip V, when he conquered the city in 1707, initially wanted to destroy the building so as to turn it into a defensive site, but he did not. He decided to convert it into a military fort where soldiers were housed, while the city center was razed, and the cathedral thus fortified remained in military hands until 1947. Consecrated in 1781, classified as a "national monument" in 1918, restoration work was undertaken from 1950. Inside, one can admire its three naves with bays covered by ribbed cross vaults, beautiful remains of wall paintings, and very beautiful capitals as well as an exceptional cloister, imposing by its height and the finely sculpted decoration of the columns. To enjoy an impressive panoramic view of the city, take a breath and climb the 238 steps to the 60 m high bell tower. This is one of the most representative examples of Catalan Gothic. A visit not to be missed!
You can then go to the old Santa Maria hospital. Built in the 15th and 16th centuries, this Gothic-Plateresque building is now the headquarters of the Institut d'Estudis Ilerdencs. Its central patio is decorated with a stone staircase that leads to a gallery of pointed arches. As for the city's museum, it exhibits some of the most beautiful pieces of sacred art in Catalonia. Here you can admire the Fatimid rock crystal chess set from Ager, the delicate paintings of the Pia Almoina, beautiful Gothic and Romanesque sculptures, Renaissance tapestries, and Baroque paintings.
Then, why not discover the Capilla de Sant Jaume? This small chapel was originally dedicated to the Virgin of the Snows. Built in the Muslim era in what was the Christian quarter, at the corner of Carrer Major and Carrer Cavallers, it is now dedicated to the cult of St. James (Sant Jaume in Catalan), which is why it is frequented by many pilgrims on their way to Compostela.
Then it's time to settle down at one of the many restaurants in Lleida to enjoy the local gastronomy. Some examples: Xalet Suis, where, in an elegant and traditional setting, you can discover the excellent cuisine of the chef Jordi Balasch. It is a true cuisine of the land where the first quality products are used. Depending on the season, you can enjoy dishes such as leg of lamb with thyme or duck breast with wild flower honey. Or El Manjador. The specialty of this small, intimate and cozy restaurant is local cheese made from cow's, sheep's or goat's milk, from Alt Urgell and La Cerdanya. A very good address. And if you are a cheese lover, take the opportunity to do some shopping. For example, at the Cadi cooperative. The origin of this cooperative goes back to 1912. It collects milk from farmers in Alt Urgell and Cerdanya, and produces butter and cow's milk cheeses (Urgèlia PDO, Flor, Montcerdà, Sierra, Serrano, Mont Cadi...), melts, grated cheeses, and even a lactose-free cheese. Or at the Serrat Gros cheese factory. This producer makes cheeses with the milk of his goats: ripened cheeses, tupi cheeses (fermented in an earthen vessel with brandy), cheeses with pepper or oil... Visit possible.
For the sportsmen, even the most inexperienced, know that Lleida offers many bicycle paths to exercise and move. Why not ride the 17 kilometers of the River Route? Don't miss the Mitjana Park, a real ecological heritage of Lleida. Classified as an area of natural interest since 1979, the park is a wetland of fluvial type. Through its fauna, admire black and white poplars, alders, ashes, willows and aquatic plants such as reeds, rushes and marsh irises. From May onwards, enjoy the flowering of the fruit trees: peach trees, nectarine trees, pear trees and apple trees... Marvel at the pink or white flowers that enhance the landscape. You can follow the city's flowering process thanks to this website.
On the first weekend of April, head to the agricultural and cultural activity "Hanami Horta" which aims to deepen the visits of the flowering. It's the perfect opportunity to learn all about the cultivation of these fruit trees. The tour starts in the agricultural museum, where you can see old agricultural tools. Then it is in the fields that the activity continues: which pears are part of the PDO of Lleida and what are the specificities?
Then comes the month of May, where different activities are organized to understand the traditional festivals of the city. This is Maig Fester (May in Festivities)! The month begins with the first weekend, the 34th edition of the Puppet Fair. Something to please both young and old! Then, on May 11, the Festa Major is celebrated in honor of Sant Anastasi, the patron saint of the city. In the city, there are parades with the giants and the big heads of the city: lo Marraco, the correfocs, the battle of the flowers and a magnificent fireworks display... The third weekend is the festival "Moors and Christians", which offers a parade of troops and the staging of the battle between "Moors and Christians" in order to conquer the city. Each year, a team wins and, for 2023, it is planned that it will be the Moors! We end the month of May with the Aplec del Caragol (snail picking). Attention, in 2023, it falls exceptionally from June 2 to 4. Did you know that during this week up to 12 tons of snails are consumed?
FUTURE INFO
When is the season?
All year round, but especially in May to enjoy the festivities.
Duration
From a weekend to a whole month. There is a lot to do here, no time to get bored.
The pluses
- The diversity of activities: gastronomy, culture, historical heritage.
- Outdoor activities with walking or cycling.
- But also many events organized all year long.
Useful
- TOURIST OFFICE
Carrer Major, 31
Phone: +34 973 700 319
WhatsApp: +34 669 826 772
Open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 2pm and 4pm to 7pm. Sundays and holidays from 10am to 1:30pm.
Do not hesitate to stop by to find out about the city's agenda, to book accommodation or
for activities, for advice..
How to get there
By train, with the TGV Paris-Barcelona and after Barcelona-Lleida (1h journey only). By plane, flight Paris-Barcelona, then the train to Lleida or, the easiest way, rent a car at the airport for more freedom on the spot. And, since the end of 2022, discover the direct link Paris-Reus (not far from Lleida by car).