BOILING LAKE

Strange, impressive, unique... There's no shortage of adjectives to describe this bubbling lake, considered to be the second largest body of water of its kind in the world. It has to be earned: you'll need at least a 3-hour walk from Laudat to reach it. From Titou-Gorge, the trail climbs steeply through the jungle to the windy ridges, which open up beautiful views over the valley and surrounding peaks. Already, the smell of sulfur, characteristic of volcanic sites, permeates the air. Gas-reddened tree trunks gradually appear, and in the Valley of Desolation, the vegetation disappears completely, leaving the steep red earth slopes of Morne Watt bare.

You are on a geothermal site where numerous phenomena bear witness to the volcano's underground activity: smoke emanations, hot springs, bubbling pools, gray mud pots, sulfur deposits... From here, hot rivers flow with rapids and waterfalls. Grey, blue and sometimes ink-black water eternally tints the rocky bottom and banks with an infinite variety of colors: yellow, ochre, red, green, blue, grey, black... The minerals inherited from ancient volcanic activity define this chromatic palette. Swimming is permitted in some of these river basins. The water temperature is ideal.

You climb up to another beautiful river, then, finally, an imposing mass of whitish smoke announces Boiling Lake, formed at the edge of a vast, deep crater, at the bottom of which stretches a lake of grey water, bubbling at its center. The water is heated by the magma beneath the rocks. At 60 metres wide, Boiling Lake really does look like an enormous bubbling cauldron. When the view is clear, the panorama over the ocean and Martinique is sublime. A few insects and small lizards manage to survive here.

The presence of a guide is mandatory! The best option is to hire a guide from the village of Laudat (EC$40-50 per person). They'll give you safe access to the site and provide explanations along the way. On geothermal sites, it's a good idea not to put your feet just anywhere, as the water and mud are hot in places, and the soil can be fragile.

Inrecent months, there have been several episodes of drying-up of the lake, synonymous with renewed activity. Authorities are urging caution.