KEK LOK SI TEMPLE

The Monastery of Supreme Bliss, inhabited by monks and nuns, is considered the largest in Southeast Asia. The huge statue of Kuan Yin that dominates it from the top of the hill makes it easy to spot. The construction, completed in 1890, was the brainchild of a native Chinese monk who drew inspiration from the monasteries of his native region, while adding Burmese and Thai elements. The project took over twenty years to complete. Past the inevitable souvenir stores, you come to a disappointing courtyard with a miniature pagoda and a papier-mâché Buddha. Further on stands a sanctuary with, at its center, a large Buddha statue in the Chieng Sen style (^13th century), from northern Thailand.

The Hall of the Bodhisattvas: these are Buddhas who have renounced nirvana to remain close to humans, helping them by answering their prayers. They are considered saints. The swastika they wear on their chests is an ancient symbol from India. It represents depth of faith, longevity and strength.

The Hall of the Four Heavenly Kings: on either side of the room, these kings flank the laughing Buddha Maitreya, known here as Bee Lay Hood. The Four Kings are supposed to guard the winds and the gates of paradise at the four cardinal points. They crush under their feet the drunkard, the drug addict, the gambler and the prostitute to whom paradise is forbidden. The most astonishing is the celestial king who plays the lute while trampling his victim.

The Buddha Hall: surrounded by his two favorite disciples and others who were among his earliest pupils (known as the Lohans). There's also Kuan Yin on the left. The decor, dominated mainly by sober yellows, greens and reds, is extremely rich. The sanctuary is also very well maintained.

The Pagoda of a Million Precious Buddhas: its name is inscribed on the building's frontispiece. 30 m high, its seven storeys alternate between Chinese, Burmese and, at the top, Thai styles. A hundred-year-old cerberus nun guards the entrance and makes sure you pay the right amount. Then it's an exhausting climb to the top of the hill... where the view of the village of Ayer Itam and the hills is unremarkable.

Once back down, you can sample the vegetarian cuisine of the restaurant under the shopping arcade at the entrance. This long visit, which is generally much appreciated, takes some time, and requires a comforting break.