BANTEY CHHMAR (CAT'S CITADEL)

Located at the edge of the kingdom, at the end of two passes of the Dangrek Mountains, Bantey Chhmar was probably the last construction of the great Khmer king Jayavarman VII, often considered as the greatest ruler Cambodia has ever known. This off-center location meant that it was frequently ravaged by Siamese armies and then looted by the descendants of its builders, which explains the extreme state of ruin in which it stands. This major temple, decorated with bas-reliefs of exceptional workmanship, comparable to those that can be admired at Angkor Wat, was, until recently, known mainly by art collectors and... the thieves who supplied them. During 1999, outrageously looted by the soldiers in charge of its protection, it made the headlines several times, after the epigraphist Claude Jacques had found some of the most beautiful pieces in the antique shops of Bangkok. Now that the road has been rehabilitated, Bantey Chhmar can be reached in an hour and a half by car from Sisophon (60 km south). It is straight north and the countryside is beautiful. At the crossroads at km 43.5, continue straight on, still heading north, for about 15 km. Bantey Chhmar reminds us of the city of Angkor Thom (north of Siem Reap). These temples were dedicated to Lockeçvara, the Bodhisatva of mercy, and have in common towers with four faces. Also bas-reliefs and balustrades of demons and giants churning the Sea of Milk with the body of the serpent Vāsuki (of which almost nothing remains). Coming from the south, after going around part of the outer wall built of limonite blocks, one enters the temple through the eastern entrance - the Gate of Honor - crossing a huge rectangular basin (1,600 m by 750 m), the Baray Mebon, in the middle of which stands an islet. One can see a ruined temple, west of the water table; a cruciform terrace formerly guarded by lions, on the road leading to the temple; a ruined sandstone sanctuary, surrounded by a laterite wall. The third enclosure is bordered by a ditch crossed by four causeways formerly decorated with naga balustrades (these now adorn other places). We then enter the temple itself: today a fantastic scree of sandstone blocks where porticoes, collapsed galleries and towers with faces emerge here and there. One gets lost in this maze, this marvelous chaos where the vegetation insinuates itself again and it is just if one can still give some indications in order to enlighten the visitor... In spite of these degradations, this temple deserves a visit for the atmosphere which reigns there. The still partially hidden ruins overgrown with vegetation really give the impression to live the adventure of an archaeological discovery in the middle of the jungle. On the other hand, visiting it gives it an importance that will perhaps generate a better protection.

The southern part of the gallery is collapsed: a battle scene between Khmers and Cham.

Northern gallery : war with its processions of warriors, elephants, porters.

Western gallery: religious scenes, one can recognize Vishnu and Lockeçvara.

South gallery : perhaps a scene of civil war between Khmers.

East Gopura, near the entrance: beautiful apsaras and bearded ascetics adorn the pediments of this very damaged building.