BEACHES

Livadia is home to a large, organized family beach to the south of Chora. Located on the other side of the Venetian citadel, it's the easiest and quickest beach to reach from the upper town: as such, it's very popular. You'll find tavernas, restaurants and shops on the seafront, and deckchairs and umbrellas on the pebble beach. Enjoy a swim while admiring the kastro.

Following the coast southwards, there are several pebble beaches, including a small one for naturists(Tzanaki), with a view of the kastro. Following the coastline, you'll reach the pleasant, shady beach ofAgios Konstantinos. It's a sandy beach where you'll find a taverna and a beach bar with deckchairs.

In the south-west of the island, the beaches are wilder and harder to get to, but some are well worth the effort. Vatses beach is one of the most beautiful on the island, with a beach bar and deckchairs. It's large enough not to be disturbed. Further west, Kaminakia beach is a sandy, pebbly beach with turquoise waters. Have lunch at Linda's taverna (+30 69818 93658, open in summer, cash only) and try sykotaria stifado (traditionally prepared lamb liver) and roast goat with tomatoes. Last but not least, the beaches ofAghios Ioannis (named after the overhanging chapel) and Panormos are very difficult to reach, but you'll be alone in the world. There are no tavernas or umbrellas.