Between a galloping cultural scene and ambitious urban projects, the former capital of the Dukes of Burgundy has reinvented itself in recent years. An ideal gateway to the wine route that winds its way through the region's best vineyards, Dijon is awakening and awakening everyone's senses. While the view is coaxed by the generosity of the medieval remains and mansions, local specialties seduce the taste and smell of visitors
Mythical mansions
Although turned towards the future, the city has known how to take care over time of its private mansions, which alone deserve the trip. Their registration in the register of historic monuments makes them accessible to all. These 117 exuberant Burgundy stone buildings are appreciated for their monumental portals and the detail of their facades. Some of them also boast glazed tiles that shimmer in the first rays of the sun, just like the pictures on good postcards
The best known of Dijon's private mansions is undoubtedly the Hôtel Chambellan, at 34 rue des Forges. A corridor vaulted with warheads takes the visitor to a small inner courtyard that Dijon has the secret. Often bathed in blond ochre light, it then unveils its two-storey wooden gallery that links the different parts of the building. It was after the French Revolution that the nobility lost many of its mansions to rich industrialists. This was the case for the Hôtel de Blancey, whose curved tympanum and the imposing back door of its porch have no trouble splashing the street with all their class. Further on, the Legouz de Gerland hotel brings yet another note of elegance to a city that is already full of it. Built at the end of the 17th century, it is best known for its harmonious hemicycle courtyard. Test the acoustics, it feels like a theatre!
This flattering courtyard largely echoes the most beautiful square in Dijon: Place de la Libération. Renowned many times after having been called Place du Maréchal-Pétain during the Occupation, it takes advantage of its beautifully rounded shape with arcades occupied by bars and shops, to offer the perfect setting for a little moment of relaxation. A place of life inseparable from the local identity, it faces the town hall installed in the Palais des États, originally built for Louis XIV from 1680. Largely inspired by the Palace of Versailles, it stands at the foot of a medieval tower, the Philippe Le Bon Tower, completed in 1460. Lovers of beautiful panoramas are invited to take their courage at two feet to climb the 46 metres that separate them from the "roof of the city", and inevitably, a breathtaking view of the city
A unique place to live
To rest while enjoying the architectural wonders of Dijon, a short ride aboard the free Diviaciti shuttle is a must. It covers the entire city centre and takes you to the very pleasant Place François Rude, unknown to the locals by that name. They prefer the name Bareuzai square, a term used to describe the colouring of the legs of the winegrowers who used to press the bunches of grapes in large vats barefoot. The "rosé stockings" came out of these vats
In the background, every Saturday morning (but also on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday), we can hear the clamour of the market gardeners around the remarkable Halles de la ville. Signed by the Eiffel company in 1868, they bring the people of Dijon together around local produce, inevitably linking generations together. Gingerbread, blackcurrant and mustard have a prominent place alongside more classic products from other latitudes. The stomach will certainly not fail to get restless. Don't panic, a bridle of about fifty restaurants is buzzing in Les Halles. Let the feast begin!
The city of 100 steeples
Many historians trace the birth of "Dijon", derived from the word "Divio" which evokes the "divine", back to the Roman Empire. This certainly explains the large number of churches that are scattered throughout the city. This characteristic will long earn it the nickname of "city of 100 steeples". Close to the Porte Guillaume on the Place Darcy, stands the superb Cathedral of Saint-Bénigne, also recognizable by its radiant glazed tiles, and whose Gothic building as it is visible today dates back to the 14th century. It has stood the test of time, not without difficulty. The underground floor of the rotunda was destroyed during the revolutionary period at the end of the 18th century. Another corner and another church: Notre-Dame church. Just as symbolic for the Dijon inhabitants, it also brings its share of anecdotes
If in doubt about the direction to take to find it, a quick look at the sidewalks is a must. Brass triangles representing her have been placed on the ground everywhere in Dijon to indicate the path to follow. There are said to be 115,000 of them! It was on the Notre-Dame square that the fatal accident of this rather stingy loan shark took place. On his wedding day, he saw one of the 51 gargoyles gushing from the façade fall on his head. Legend has it that it represented avarice!
Another place of worship is also much talked about him. It is the parvis Saint-Jean, which since 1974 has changed its religion to embrace art and thus become the stage of the Théâtre Dijon Bourgogne (TDB). The hall has been perfectly embedded inside the former religious complex whose foundations date back to the5th century. It alone bears witness to the dynamism and originality of Dijon's cultural projects.
An interesting cultural life
If there is one area in which Dijon has been able to ensure its transformation, it is that of culture. Opened in the Age of Enlightenment and housed in the sumptuous Hôtel des Ducs de Bourgogne and part of the Palais des États, the Fine Arts Museum has an exceptionally varied collection, the most beautiful pieces of which are most probably to be found in the large Ducal Dwelling Room, with two very beautiful altarpieces and, above all, the tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy. And as good news never comes alone, access is free, as is the case for the other six municipal museums.
And so as not to spoil anything, Dijon always has at least one concert to offer every night, whether on its biggest stages like the Zenith, the Opera or La Vapeur, or in one of its many bars. Vibrant, they tell you!
Smart info
When? You can go there all year round.Autumn is very pleasant
Get there. By train (Dijon-Ville station), by car or by bus, there are many solutions.
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