BUSEOKSA TEMPLE

This very beautiful temple is really worth the detour because it has unique treasures. It was founded in 676 by the monk Uisang de Silla who brought back from China the teaching of the Hwaeom sect, "from the garland of flowers". This sect was dominant in Korea for about 5 centuries before being replaced by the Jogye sect. Buseoksa, the "Temple of the Floating Rock" is still the center of this sect. Its name comes from the legend attached to it. To protect it from the demons, a rock floated above the main hall during its construction. This rock, which bears calligraphy, is to the left of this hall. We go up to the temple by a beautiful path lined with trees and apple fields. On the right are 2 stone supports which were used to wedge a huge mast where flags were flying; this custom, which has disappeared, was practiced under Silla. We arrive in a courtyard where there are 2 pagodas dating back to the foundation of the temple. On the left is a recently built museum hall where the oldest Buddhist paintings on wood in the country are exhibited. They represent 2 bodhisattvas and the 4 Celestial Guardians, and they date from Goryeo. Above are old woodcut plates, also dating from Goryeo, engraved with the Avatamsaka sutra ("of the garland of flowers") which gave the sect its name. Higher up is another courtyard with residence buildings and a staircase goes under the beautiful bell pavilion to reach the upper courtyard. From here the view over the valley is magnificent. Most of the buildings of this temple miraculously escaped Japanese destruction. Its main hall Muryangsujeon is thus the oldest wooden structure in the country (some say that it would actually be the small Geungnakjeon hall of the Bongjeongsa temple near Andong, but it is far from being as imposing). It would date from the mid-12th century. It is well preserved and quite large, but its architecture is rather simple. This hall is not only precious in itself because of its age, but it also houses a magnificent Buddha of golden clay. Strangely placed against the left wall, it has a superb flame mandala on its back. This Buddha is the only one from that time in this material. Opposite the hall stands a large lantern made of Joseon stone. Further up on the right there is a path to Josadang, the second oldest building in the complex, which dates back to 1372. It's dedicated to Uisang. Not far away, the Nahanjeon hall contains 2 stone statues of Vairocana dating from the 9th century.