HEAVY AMBER

Amber Fort is probably the most popular fort in Rajasthan, due to its close proximity to Jaipur. This is where the Rajput maharajas lived, before Jai Singh II built and developed the city of Jaipur and had a more modern palace built in the 18th century. The fort is strategically placed at the exit of the Amber Pass, nestled in the heights of the Aravalli. Go there preferably in the morning when the facade is lit by the sun. From Jaipur, you will see on the way the Man Sagar Lake in the middle of which stands the Jal Mahal (the Water Palace), built in the 18th century and closed to the public. It was a summer palace, intended to accommodate royal parties. The Amber Fort dominates with its power and majesty the small Maota Lake and the Mughal garden of Dilaram Bagh (the Garden of the Peaceful Heart), built in the 16th century during the visit of Emperor Akbar. The sobriety of its facade does not let anything appear of the small palaces and doors richly decorated. We recommend that you hire a guide, as there are no signs inside the fort.

The Kachhwaha dynasty occupied the site of Amber from the 12th century. Maharaja Duleh Rai seized it from the Meena tribe and made it his capital. Man Singh I expanded the fort in the late 16th century. After the foundation of Jaipur, Amber lost its status as capital, but its position on the road from Delhi continued to ensure its considerable strategic importance. It takes about twenty minutes to reach the building from the road, using the steep zigzag access road. The path was of course intended to slow down the enemy in case of an attack. On the way, you will have time to appreciate the sobriety of the facade evoking the military rigor of the Rajput rulers. The fortifications running through the surrounding hills reinforce this impression of austerity, suddenly making us forget the splendor of the court and reminding us that the region has long been the object of wars.

The gateway, Suraj Pol (the Sun Gate), opens onto the Jaleb Chowk courtyard (the Reception Courtyard). The adjoining buildings were once stables or servants' quarters. They are now occupied by souvenir stores. The small temple of Sila Devi stands on the right. The doors and lions that frame the statue of Kali are made of silver. Take the stairs at the far left of the courtyard, next to the entrance window. In the middle of the next courtyard stands the Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audiences) with its imposing marble columns. Now pass through the Ganesh Gate (Ganesh Pol), richly decorated with murals. It opens onto the private quarters of the rulers, refurbished in the mid-17th century under Jai Singh I. The Sukh Mahal (Palace of Pleasures), to the right of the courtyard, had an ingenious air-conditioning system draining streams of perfumed water from the roof to a small drain. Its ornamentation is rather sober if one takes its name into account. The rooms to the east of the courtyard are much more interesting. The Jai Mandir consists of three small rooms remarkable for their wall decorations: colored glass mosaics, mirrors(sheesh), paintings and arabesques enhanced with plaster bas-reliefs. The central room served as Diwan-i-Khas (hall of private audiences) where the maharaja received his closest ministers. Take the staircase built into the wall south of the courtyard. On the upper floor, the Jash Mahal (Palace of Glory) also has beautiful wall decorations. From here you can enjoy a beautiful view of the Maota Lake and the Dilaram Bagh garden. Go back down to the first floor to enter the zenana (the women's quarters). The wives of the maharajas and the princesses lived practically recluse between these austere walls. The size of these quarters gives a glimpse of the importance of the female court at the time. Some of the rooms still have rare decorations... But the whole place looks quite gloomy, especially the tiny rooms on the second floor which remind us more of a dark brothel than a royal palace.

Climbing Amber Fort. If climbing to the top of the fort in the blazing sun doesn't appeal to you, you can opt for an elephant ride. The incessant ballet of the pachyderms hoists the tourists to the top in about fifteen minutes. The starting point is located below the road leading to the fort, on the left, after the parking lot. Climb onto the platform and sit comfortably on the back of your Jumbo. You will feel like a maharaja storming the Amber Fort or a visiting ruler. This will be your only opportunity to ride an elephant in Rajasthan, which is more prolific in camelids. Despite numerous signs indicating that tipping is forbidden, your mahout will not hesitate to ask for one upon arrival in the courtyard of Jaleb Chowk. Refuse politely. Elephant riding is only possible in the morning, between 8:30 am and noon. They then leave for lunch and bathing.

Sound and light show. Folk music and a giant panorama of Amber Fort and the palace, Jaigarh Fort on the left and the hills in the background. Every day at 7:30 pm, the show starts (in English). Paying show. Information and reservations: ✆ +91 141 253 08 44 - ✆ +91 141 253 10 42