BATU CAVES

The must-see Batu Caves are the highest Hindu site in Malaysia, and indeed in the world outside India. Both a natural and religious site, this group of caves nestled in a limestone cliff was converted into a temple over 100 years ago. It comprises one main cave and three smaller ones. A pilgrimage destination for Malaysia's Hindu community, but also for devotees from India and Singapore, this temple is dedicated to Lord Murugan, the god of war and son of Shiva and Parvati. To reach the cathedral grotto, perched 100 metres above sea level, you'll have to climb 272 seemingly endless steps. Perhaps to brighten up this tedious moment, the steps have been freshly painted in bright colors. Thieving macaques enjoying peanuts offered by climbers will greet you along the way, but keep a close eye on your belongings. Don't leave your glasses, camera or phone lying around. On arrival at the site, you'll be greeted by the imposing 42-metre-high golden statue of Murugan. It stands proudly to the right of the staircase. Inside the grotto, fervor is at its peak. Incense smoke billows, statues of gods from the Indian pantheon stand guard, traditional music bangs against the rock walls and devotees perform puja (prayers) at the foot of their idol. Two shafts of natural light cast their rays over the stage, accentuating the atmosphere of fervor and strangeness that floats here.

The fervor reaches its peak during the Thaipusam festival, which takes place in January or February. This is one of the most impressive Hindu festivals. Over a million Hindus embark on a 24-hour procession from the Sri Mahamariamman temple in Kuala Lumpur's Chinatown to the Batu caves. Pilgrims follow the silver chariot carrying Murugan and his two acolytes, Valli and Teivayanni, for an incredible and emotional tribute to Murugan. Offerings, shouts, bhajan (chanting), music, mystical dances and mortifications make up this gripping tableau. The most fervent perform a trance that culminates in violent scarification. They pierce various parts of their bodies with needles, assegais or spears. The most devout wear kavadi, wooden structures attached to their backs with hooks as extreme signs of devotion.