FESTIVALS DU DURBAR

One of the most fantastic cultural experiences to be seen in Nigeria. Durbar is a traditional festival in the north of the country that is held twice a year, on the occasion of Eid-el-Fitr (end of Ramadan) and Eid-el-Kebir (three months after the first). Also known as Sallah or Hawan Daushe, it is held in several cities including Zaria, Katsina and Sokoto and gives all the tribes of the region the opportunity to come and swear allegiance to the Emir, in a debauchery of pomp and sumptuous costumes. Kano is famous for having the largest Durbar dru country. We must imagine thousands of people marching on horses, royally harnessed when the riders themselves are adorned with their most beautiful sheikhs, rich fabrics and spears, scepters or powder guns, all under the throbbing music of the traditional trumpets. Once each tribe has come to greet the illustrious man, the charge follows, with the riders galloping through the crowd of the entire city gathered in the square, towards the Emir who remains impassive from the top of his majesty. Some tribes display live crocodiles, camels, or fire powder rifles in deafening explosions. We are thus transported into another era, that of rites and ranks, where the virility of the tribe shown to the Durbar does its credit and where traditional allegiances are stronger than secular authorities. The festival is thus eminently political, and if the Emir of Zazzau systematically invites the Governor of Kaduna to his side for the Durbar, the icy - even hostile - relations that prevail today between Sanusi II and the Governor of Kano are palpable in the speeches of the various speakers.

Be careful, the Durbar is a highly political event, and can therefore be a target. Some tribes have political messages to convey, and the tension of the entire crowd is intense, which invariably ends in a general rush. Do not stand in the crowd, stay on high stands. Never go there by yourself, always come as part of an organized trip or with locals. At the end of the event, the crowd slowly disperses in the city and the surroundings become dangerous: do not walk around and wait until the city has become calm again. Provide a safe and secure means of return. Escort recommended.