ŠAR MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK

This national park (Parku Kombëtar Malet e Sharrit, Nacionalni park Šar-planina) was established in 1986 and expanded until 2012 to 533 km2. It is one of the two national parks in the country together with the Albanian Alps National Park in the Western Kosovo region. It stretches along North Macedonia and into Albania, between the Kosovar villages of Štrpce/Shtërpca and Dragaš/Dragash (see Prizren region). Since 2021, it has been part of a huge cross-border protected area of more than 2,400 km2 which includes two national parks in Northern Macedonia, Mavrovo (730 km2) and Šar Mountains (627 km2), as well as the Korab-Koritnik nature park (555 km2) in Albania. But on the Kosovo side, there are no information centres for visitors. To find a guide, you have to turn to the tourist office in Prizren (Visit Prizren) or to the Uspon club in Štrpce/Shtërpca.

Fauna and flora. The national park is home to 1,800 species of plants, 175 of which are protected, 18 of which are found only in the Šar Mountains. You can easily spot the large Macedonian pine (Pinus peuce) and its cousin the Bosnian pine (Pinus heldreichii), but it is more difficult to spot the rare Šar carnation (Dianthus scardicus Wettst.) or the Nathalia ramondie (Ramonda nathaliae). This flower with purple petals is found only in Kosovo, Northern Macedonia and Northern Greece. For its ability to revive at the first rain, it is considered by the Serbs as a symbol of the spirit of resistance of their army during the First World War. There are also 36 kinds of mammals here, such as bears, wolves, roe deer, wild boars and chamois. You will have the best chance of seeing the chamois, as the park is home to over 700 of them. There are also 147 species of butterflies, 45 species of amphibians and reptiles, including the marsh tortoise which lives in the high altitude lakes. Finally, with the creation of the large transboundary protected area, we can hope for a return of the Balkan lynx to Kosovo: this species now numbers only about 50 individuals residing in the Mavrovo National Park (Northern Macedonia) and the Korab-Koritnik Nature Park (Albania).

Lakes. There are no less than 27 glacial lakes in the national park, known as the "eyes of the Šar". At the foot of Mount Peskovi (2,651 m above sea level), the third highest peak in the country, is Lake Jažince (Liqeni i Jazhincës, Veliko Jažinačko jezero). Its own altitude is 2,180 m and it can be reached from Prevalac/Prevalla (14 km southwest of Štrpce/Shtërpca). It is a 2-hour walk south-east of the village and is 120 m long and 50 m wide, with a depth of about 5 m. It is said to be the most beautiful lake in the world. It is reputed to be the coldest lake in Kosovo, yet it is home to trout. Further down, an hour's walk to the north-east, the Black Lake (Liqeni i zi, Malo jažincko jezero) is located at an altitude of 1,416 m and is only 50 m wide at its widest point. But it is one of the most isolated of the massif. Its black colour comes from the dark rocks at the bottom while it is bordered by white rocks on the surface. Above all, it is worth a visit for its pretty heart shape.

Strict nature reserves. The national park includes three strict reserves created in 1960 and located slightly north of the Sredska Valley (see description). The westernmost, above the village of Mushnikova/Mušnikovo, is the Ošljak Strict Nature Reserve (Rezervat Strikt i Natyrës Oshlaku, Strogi prirodni rezervat Ošljak). It is located near the Ošljak mountain (2,212 m above sea level) and covers an area of 20 ha, including a Bosnian pine forest, a few pairs of capercaillie and the rare Alexander's yarrow (Achillea alexandri-regis). Above the village of Gornje Selo/Gornjasella is the "Great Pine" nature reserve (Rezervat Strikt i Natyrës Pisha e Madhe, Strogi prirodni rezervat Golem bor). With an area of 44 ha, it is home to the Macedonian pine, a rocky plant endemic to the Balkans(Sedum flexuosum), and the Lanner falcon(Falco biarmicus). Finally, further east, the small ski resort of Prevalac/Prevalla is dominated by the Popovo Prase mountain nature reserve (Rezervat Strikt i Natyrës Maja e Arnenit, Strogi prirodni rezervat Popovo prase). The 30-hectare protected area around the 1,924-metre-high peak is characterized by a mixed forest of Bosnian pine, Macedonian pine and Balkan beech. Endemic plants of the cross-border region include Šar grass(Vrbascum scardicolum), Albanian bellflower(Campanula albanica) and Albanian thyme (Thymusalbanus).

Activities. The national park is still poorly marked and it is recommended that professional mountain guides be used for hiking. However, it is easy to drive through and provides a nice alternative and bucolic route from Prizren to Pristina (114 km, about 2h20). Along the R115 road, you will find a few gas stations, restaurants, hotels and many villages. Finally, it's not very green, but the national park is home to two ski resorts, including the largest in Kosovo, Brezovica.