AL-BALAD

Al-Balad, which means "old city" in Arabic, is the historic district of Jeddah. The city was founded in the ^7th century on the shores of the Red Sea, just 80 km from Mecca. The expansion of Islam soon transformed the small fishing port into a multicultural city open to the world. Is this the historical reason for its singular architecture? The old town has preserved its buildings constructed from blocks of coral, its facades punctuated with openwork wooden balconies, the roshans, and its colorful shutters. The oldest buildings are 600 years old. Many are in a sorry state. Crown Prince Mohammed Bin Salmane has released a budget of over $13 million to restore 56 buildings in danger of collapsing. The city has been a Unesco World Heritage Site since 2014.

Access to the old town is often via the northern Bab Jadid gate. Traces of the old city wall can still be seen, before it was demolished in the 1940s. Despite the palisades protecting the renovation sites, there is a unique and pleasant atmosphere in this district, a world away from the charmless cities of Saudi Arabia. A veritable maze of alleyways leading to small squares, you can wander through the souks, enter the many art galleries, visit a potter or a woodturner... Al-Balad is also one of the last centers of handicrafts in Saudi Arabia. Jeddawi ceramics in particular are highly reputed.

In the 1970s, Jeddawis began to leave the city, which was aging and ill-adapted to modern times. It was difficult to get around and impossible to park. Immigrant workers replaced the Saudis. It wasn't until 20 years later that the Municipality became aware of the need to preserve the unique heritage of Jeddah's old town. In 1991, it founded the Society for the Conservation of Historic Jeddah. In 2002, funds were released to preserve the architectural and cultural heritage of Old Jeddah. The district's bid to be listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009 accelerated the efforts made and, above all, enabled the renovation work to continue according to the rules of the art. Saudi Arabia's desire to open up to tourism and the inclusion of Jedda in the Vision 2030 plan will transform the Old City into a giant construction site for several years to come.

Al-Balad is made up of several districts that can be divided into 4 main zones: al-Mazloum to the northeast, al-Sham to the north, al-Yemen to the south and al-Bahr to the southwest. Each district has its own souk, mosques, large mansions and small buildings.

Maison Nassif. This 4-storey palace is the most emblematic house in Al-Balad. It stands at the end of a small square shaded by a large tree. Built in 1881 for the wealthy merchant and governor of Jeddah Omar Nassif, the palace is a blend of influences. With its sculpted bow windows, floral friezes and medallions, rounded windows, stone door and roof terrace sheltered under a wooden pavilion, the house evokes the Ottoman Turkish style. The house has two entrances. The main door is to the north, while another to the west was reserved for women. The palace has 106 rooms arranged around a large central hall. Some of the rooms are adorned with antique tiles or elaborate woodwork. Maison Nassif housed Abdulaziz ibn Saud when he seized Jeddah in December 1925, and became a royal palace in the early days of Saudi Arabia. The Nassif family reclaimed their house when the king built a palace in Jeddah. They transformed it into a private library, collecting over 16,000 books. Today, these books have been transferred to the library of King Abdulaziz University in Jeddah, and the Nassif house is a cultural center and museum.

Souq Alawi. This street runs northeast from the heart of the city, past Maison Nassif and Maison Matbouli, with their beautiful bow-windows. Stores are wisely lined up and hidden behind large solid wood shutters when closed. This is the street of perfumers and shoe merchants.

Al Layat Lane. This tiny alleyway off Souq Alawi, just behind Maison Nassif, is home to a number of art craftsmen. These include Hassan's wood-turning studio and a studio for vegetable and mineral dyes. These spaces are run by young Saudis who are reinvesting in arts and crafts. Don't hesitate to push open the doors to meet the local youth.

Al-Shafi'i Mosque. One of the oldest mosques in Al-Balad, it is open to non-Muslim visitors outside prayer hours, provided they are modestly dressed (no shorts, loose-fitting clothing for women and head covering). Located along the Souq al-Jawi, the mosque dates back to the ^16th century, but is much older. Its mihrab dates from the ^19th century.

Non-Muslim cemetery. Just south of Al-Balad, along King Fahd Branch Road, which marks the boundary of the old town, lies the old Christian cemetery, hidden behind a clump of trees and a wall. The oldest tombs date back to the ^16th century, when the Portuguese were fighting the Ottomans.