LUBLIN CASTLE (ZAMEK LUBELSKI)

You'll soon notice this large, rectangular building enthroned on a hill overlooking the old town. It can be reached either by a grand staircase or by walking over a bridge. This castle was originally built in the ^14th century and later extended on the orders of King Casimir the Great (again, he truly deserves his builder's nickname). It is the site of the historic signing of the Treaty of Lublin, which linked Poland and Lithuania for centuries, a fact strangely little celebrated or commemorated. It has since been destroyed by the vagaries of war and replaced by a prison in the ^19th century, in which, during the Second World War, thousands of people (mostly political prisoners and rebels) were incarcerated by the Nazis and later by the Soviets before being deported. It remained a prison until 1954. Since 1957, the building has been home to the Lubelskie Museum (Muzeum Lubelskie). Today, the museum houses a wide range of collections: the history of the region and its inhabitants since prehistoric times (excellent, fun and very modern), an exhibition of coins and artefacts (pass), an exhibition of religious art (beautiful and of high quality), an exhibition of peasant art and costumes (entertaining) and the museum of the Lublin court, which once occupied the premises during the Republic (empty). As you can see, this is one of the largest museums in the region (although it takes no more than 2 hours to visit) and boasts a very large collection, albeit unevenly museographed. An additional ticket is required to visit the castle: its keep (20 m high, the last vestige of the original ^14th-century castle) is not really worth the effort, except to enjoy a spectacular view of the old town from its roof.

The castle's centerpiece, and one of Eastern Poland's greatest treasures, is its chapel. Located in the castle's east wing, the Chapel of the Holy Trinity (Kaplica Sw. Trojcy) is a perfectly preserved treasure trove of medieval religious art dating back to the ^14th century. Its Orthodox frescoes are unique in Europe, making it one of the richest chapels of the Middle Ages. You'll often be on your own here, so take advantage and let yourself be immersed in a unique and absolutely sublime blend of two Christian cultures and traditions.