The Sentier des Douaniers, or GR® 34, is renowned as one of the most beautiful walking trails in France. In this article, we'll give you the itinerary of the Sentier des Douaniers and practical information to help you make the most of your hike and discover some of France's most beautiful natural sites.
What is the GR 34, le Sentiers des Douaniers?
The GR® 34 is a "sentier de grande randonnée" (long-distance hiking trail), i.e. an itinerary requiring several days' walking. There are several such trails in France, marked and maintained by the Fédération Française de la Randonnée Pédestre. The GR® 34 follows the entire Breton coastline, from Mont-Saint-Michel to Saint-Nazaire. Along its route, the Douaniers trail passes through some of Brittany's most beautiful sites: the island-studded Gulf of Morbihan, the Quiberon peninsula and its dunes, Concarneau and its historic center on the water, the Pointe du Raz, classified as a Grand Site de France, the Bay of Douarnenez, the Pink Granite Coast and the Bay of Saint-Brieuc.
Historically, the GR 34 was laid out in 1791 to enable coastguards to monitor the Breton coastline day and night, to protect it from smuggling and the looting of shipwrecks. This is why it is known as the sentier des Douaniers. In the 20th century, it lost its usefulness and fell into oblivion. But in 1968, it was redeveloped for the enjoyment of hikers, who can follow it on foot, but not by bike. Discover our cycling itineraries in Brittany.
The Sentier des Douaniers itinerary extends over 2,000 km, with a cumulative vertical drop of 17,000 m. Some walkers choose to complete it in one go, in which case it takes around 3 months. That's why most walkers only complete a section. For example, the Côtes-d'Armor section of the GR 34 is 421 km long, so it takes around 20 days to complete. You can also select a shorter section, and walk for a weekend to discover this superb hiking destination.
Detailed itinerary of the GR 34, le Sentiers des Douaniers
The Sentier des Douaniers runs between Mont-Saint-Michel, in the Manche department, and Saint-Nazaire, in the Loire-Atlantique department. It's very easy to follow, as it's marked along its entire length by white and red markers.
It can be broken down into a few main stages:
- First, it skirts the bay of Mont-Saint-Michel as far as Cancale, passing briefly inland, before reaching Saint-Malo.
- Between Saint-Malo and Saint-Brieuc, the Douaniers trail almost never leaves the coast. It's a beautiful section, with views of the Emerald Coast and some of Brittany's most beautiful villages.
- Between Saint-Brieuc and Paimpol, you'll cross the Goëlo coast, again almost exclusively following the shoreline. This is a rather wild section and a less frequented destination.
- You'll then reach the famous pink granite coast, which is the name given to the stretch of coastline between Perros-Guirec and Trébeurden. This is one of Brittany's most beautiful walks, but also one of the most popular with tourists. It is characterized by large blocks of pink granite sculpted by the waves over the centuries.
- You'll then continue your walk in the Trégor region, climbing to the top of superb 100-metre-high cliffs, passing through Lannion, then Morlaix, which you'll reach by breaking away from the coastline to follow the estuary of the Rivière de Morlaix. This section also offers some of the most beautiful beaches in Brittany.
- After leaving Morlaix, you walk without really leaving the coast until you reach Brest, where the coastline becomes more rugged, the waves more violent, and you pass numerous lighthouses.
- Once you've passed Brest, you'll walk a little further inland, in the Armorique regional nature park. Then you enter what is perhaps one of the most beautiful sections of the GR 34 itinerary: the one along the Iroise Sea. There are dozens of lighthouses, the rock is tortured and the islands pearl in the distance. Your first stop is the Crozon peninsula.
- You'll leave the Crozon peninsula and head for the Pointe du Raz. This exceptional natural site is protected from mass tourism, cars and pollution. You'll be encouraged to take steps to protect the environment.
- You'll then follow the Bay of Audierne, a popular surfing destination, before walking to Lorient, which marks the start of your discovery of Morbihan.
- You then walk to the Gulf of Morbihan. This section takes in coastal paths and others a little further inland. You'll pass the superb Quiberon peninsula and its string of dunes.
- The Douaniers trail ends in Loire-Atlantique, with a walk to Saint-Nazaire.
Practical tips for walking the GR 34, le Sentiers des Douaniers
Before embarking on your adventure, make sure you define the itinerary of the Sentiers des Douaniers you're going to follow. Start by deciding how much time you'll have available, then choose the section that interests you most. Most walkers aim for around twenty kilometers a day, but you can do a few hikes beforehand to see if this daily distance will suit you. If you want to do some sightseeing and explore each of your stops in greater depth, for example, you can reduce this distance. While the entire route is magnificent, the most popular sections are undoubtedly the pink granite coast, the Pointe du Raz, and the Gulf of Morbihan.
As for the season, the GR 34 is accessible in all seasons. It tends to be quite busy in summer, particularly on the most popular sections mentioned above. In winter, some sections can be muddy or more difficult, but still accessible, while bivouacking is less pleasant. That's why the mid-seasons, autumn and spring, are probably the most pleasant.
The trail is well marked in red and white, and you won't need a map, but it's always a good idea to download an interactive map onto your mobile. Travel as light as possible. But don't forget to pack:
- A light backpack.
- Snacks: cereal bars, fruit, bread, etc
- Thermos flask.
- Hiking shoes.
- First-aid kit.
- Garbage bags to collect waste behind you and protect the environment.
- Hiking poles, optional but always useful.
- A portable battery for your phone.
- A tent and sleeping bag if you plan to bivouac.
All along the route, you'll find grocery stores, restaurants, bivouac sites, Breton gîtes and campsites. It's a good idea to book them in advance to avoid any nasty surprises, as the GR 34 is very popular, and therefore frequented.
For the return journey, the Breton coastline is fairly well connected by public transport, and you shouldn't have any trouble getting back to your original drop-off point or to a major railway station. Otherwise, hitchhiking is quite common.
