Andism, a dream of excess
Like all hostile lands beyond human control, Patagonia has that extra something that attracts hikers from all over the world. Climb imposing glaciers, resist the impetuous wind, wind your way through thousand-year-old forests and ski or snowshoe down the slopes: Andean mountaineering is sure to challenge your physical and mental capacities. A specific term for the practice of mountaineering in the Andes, andinism is therefore a derivative of alpinism, an activity officially recognized by UNESCO World Heritage in 2019. Listed as intangible cultural heritage, this art of living and climbing high mountain peaks, born in the cradle of the Alps in 1750, highlights know-how, shared cultures and man's unconditional love of the landscape. In addition to transmitting the values of humility and respect for nature, Andeanism is distinguished above all by the technical and mental resources required to tackle the often unmarked routes. Privileged moments, personal challenges, daily meditations or passion from the very beginning: you don't set out to conquer the mountains without knowing the terrain, which is always changing, especially with global warming. In fact, the recent inclusion of mountain climbing on UNESCO's World Heritage List aims to limit man's impact on the mountains, in order to better protect them. A noble practice for all those who adopt a responsible attitude towards a majestic but fragile natural environment!
Reaching for the top
Hiking in Patagonia means enjoying an exceptional natural environment that can be contemplated nowhere else. With glaciers as far as the eye can see, the region is the third largest freshwater reserve and the largest ice cap in the world after Antarctica and Greenland. Campo Hielo Sur, crowded with crevasses, tunnels and steep ridges, is a white desert of 49 glaciers. Among them, the Pio XI glacier is the largest in the southern hemisphere. This ten-metre-high wall of ice stretches over almost 1,250 square kilometers, the equivalent of New York City. It is the only glacier that is not currently retreating, along with its Argentine cousin, the Perito Morino. Located between the Campo de Hielo Sur and the Patagonian steppe, Torres del Paine National Park is partly characterized by its glaciers: Glacier del Francés, Grey Glacier, Dickson Glacier... The Geike and Tyndall glaciers, a little further south in Bernardo O'Higgins Park, are far more impressive. Finally, in the Aysén region, the Exploradores glacier and the San Rafael lagoon offer a special moment of intimacy with these giants of ice. However, surveying them is no mean feat, as there are no trails: so don crampons under your shoes and carry poles to help you along. To congratulate yourself, respect tradition by drinking a glass of whisky washed down with a few ice cubes sifted directly from the glacier.
What's more, Patagonia is pockmarked with chimneys that are just as many volcanoes: pushing the adrenalin rush by climbing these fire-breathers is another challenge to be met. In the north of Chile, we find the largest volcano on the planet, Los Ojos de Salado, at 6,893 metres above sea level. Heading south, in the Bío Bío and Lakes regions, the volcanoes are lower than those in the north, but much more lively: during the 1960 earthquake, no fewer than ten volcanoes awoke. At the gateway to Patagonia, in Conguillío National Park, the Llaima volcano coexists alongside thousand-year-old araucaria forests. At the summit, following the wide corridors left by the lava flows, you can admire the Laguna Captrén and Lake Conguillío. A hundred kilometers to the south, Villarica with its 200-metre diameter crater offers an affordable ascent (although good physical condition is required) to a 360° viewpoint over the Lanín volcano on Argentine territory. The ascent of the Lanín volcano is more demanding: a two-day hike over rock and ice to reach its 1,776-metre summit. This region, as green as it is wild, is renowned for its multitude of explosive volcanoes: Chile holds the geological record with its 150 active volcanoes! The Osorno volcano is certainly the most emblematic, with its perfectly conical shape. To the south, the volcanoes are less accessible and subject to unstable weather conditions. Such is the case of Mount San Valentín (4,058 m, Patagonia's highest peak), in the Laguna San Rafael National Park, which takes a good month to climb because of the climate from the Exploradores Valley. In the Magallanes region, the glacier-covered Lotaro volcano has only been climbed 15 times since its discovery 50 years ago. However, there's more to discovering these forces of nature than trekking and sporting feats: there are more accessible and equally spectacular hikes to be discovered in the Lake District, on the Argentine side with the peacefulEl Bolsón valley and Nahuel Huapi National Park, and on the Chilean side with Vicente Perez Rosales Park. Los Alerces National Park, Huilo-Huilo Reserve and Tierra Del Fuego National Park, for example, offer plenty of opportunities to escape the daily grind.
El Chaltén: trek in wild lands
Located in Argentina's Patagonia region, El Chaltén has been dubbed "the mountain that smokes" by the Tehuelche people because of the permanent clouds that hide the silhouette of the emblematic Mount Fitz Roy, one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. Overlooking an azure-blue lagoon, its steep spires rise like arrows from the ice-covered earth. To admire this jewel of nature, you'll need to hike no less than 8 hours along trails offering breathtaking panoramas. A trekking mecca, El Chaltén lies within Los Glaciares National Park , whose main gateway is in El Calafate, 200 kilometers to the south. It's here, in particular, that you can admire the Perito Moreno, a monstrous glacier that's easy to observe from specially equipped platforms. But your hunger for exploration may not be satisfied by following the well-trodden paths: with its enigmatic charm, El Chaltén offers a wide range of hikes set against a backdrop of unspoilt nature. Mountain hunters will be delighted: each hike reveals incredibly photogenic landscapes and views of pristine beauty between forests, mountains, lakes and glaciers.
To guide you on your journey, here's a quick rundown of the different options to consider: for starters, don't miss the legendary Laguna de Los Tres and Fitz Roy hike. Covering almost 10 km, this is THE hike not to be missed, offering you one of the most memorable views of Patagonia during a rather athletic ascent. Reinvigorated by the often cold wind, set off early in the morning to enjoy the trails bathed in light and the clear skies: you'll admire the uncluttered peaks all the more. On the second day, set off for Laguna Torre. Allow 3 hours for a leisurely ascent along the river and continue to Mirador Maestri, a unique viewpoint overlooking the Grande glacier. Other, more relaxing walks (less than 2 hours) are also available on a half-day basis, such as Laguna Capri, with its small beach offering a different view of Mount Fitz Roy, or Mirador de Los Condores, a 45-minute walk which, as its name suggests, takes you to a strategic point for observing this majestic Andean bird, playing with the gusts of wind. Finally, the more adventurous can enjoy an extended immersion in the park by pitching their tents at the Poincenot campground, a free campsite where you can enjoy the cool waters of the river right next door: the water comes straight from the glaciers, no need to filter! Finally, for those who want to get as close to the clouds as possible, set off up the mountainside on the Loma del Pliegue Tumbado. it's a 12 km trail and a 4-hour hike in conditions that aren't always favourable: up there, the cold and wind won't be kind, but it's the only place in the park where you can admire Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy at the same time! One more for the road? The Huemul glacier, accessible via Estancia del Lago, which takes just 40 minutes to climb. A little way off the beaten track, it's one of the most beautiful glaciers in the region, with its unique turquoise-blue lagoon. The walk through the forest is just as enchanting. Follow the yellow markings all the way, and continue past the sign indicating that access to the glacier is forbidden. After a few metres of ascent, you'll come to the laguna. Despite all the descriptive indications, it's particularly difficult to give a faithful representation of the reality of this end of the world. All you have to do is discover it, explore it and soak up all its beautiful images.
La Ruta de los parques
In Patagonia, it has to be said, it's in Chile that mountaineers test their skills and endurance the most. Modern explorers in search of a challenge will be delighted, map in hand, by this itinerary of all possibilities located in Chile: the Ruta de los Parques is this route of over 115,000 km² which crosses 90% of protected areas. Left to the wild instincts of untamed nature, brave hikers can, since December 2018, embark on the 2,800 kilometers that separate Puerto Montt from Cabo de Hornos (Cape Horn). From Alerce Andino National Park, east of Puerto Montt, to Torres del Paine, via Corcovado, Laguna San Rafael, Melimoyu and Bernardo O'Higgins parks, there are quite a few national parks created by the Tompkins Conservation Foundation. And this is no coincidence! Since the 1990s, the late Douglas Tompkins and his wife Kristine have worked together to preserve Chilean Patagonia. After years of effort and perseverance, they inaugurated the Ruta de los Parques in September 2018.
Leave in the right conditions
Trekking is not something you can improvise, especially when you're planning a multi-day trip. First of all, beware of unpredictable weather conditions, and always pack adequate equipment: waterproof walking shoes, pairs of socks, synthetic inner garments (no cotton or jeans), windbreaker, hat, sunglasses (very thin ozone layer in the region), down jacket, waterproof tent, walking stick, food (some supply points in the park are quite expensive), gas stove, headlamp, first-aid kit (sun cream, aspirin, anti-inflammatory, bandages, disinfectant, headbands, thermometer, scissors, Swiss Army knife...). The most important preparation and anticipation is undoubtedly the planning of the O and W circuit within the Torres Del Paine Park! Since October 15, 2016, it has been compulsory to have advance reservations for all campsites: it is very strongly advised against venturing on these tours without having previously booked your accommodation. Finally, in addition to the weather, you should also consider the altitude: in the Andes, the peaks are often higher than Mont Blanc. It is therefore advisable to observe the altitude acclimatization times. Don't push yourself, take all the usual precautions and don't hesitate to turn back if you run out of breath. As far as equipment is concerned, Chilean Patagonia has some very good agencies and stores, notably in Pucón, Malalcahuello, Puerto Natales and Puerto Varas. If you choose to work with a tour operator, be sure to check the equipment available and the knowledge of the guide. To help you find your way around, get a copy of the IGM (Institut Géographique Militaire) map, based on a scale of 1:25,000. It's also advisable to follow the compulsory itinerary indicated at the park entrance, and to bring a GPS or compass. Finally, of course, the deeper you go, the greater the risks and the less present and responsive the rescue services. High-mountain rescuers, whose dedication is often exemplary, are not equipped like their French colleagues. Rescue by mule is more common than by helicopter.
