The Right of Access to Nature
Allemansrätt in Swedish, allemannsrett in Norwegian and jokamiehenoikeus in Finnish. First of all, it may be interesting to know what the rules are concerning access to natural areas in Lapland. The Right of Access to Nature is a general right of passage and gathering on the land of others. It's not a law, but a customary right, which states that everyone can walk freely in nature, except in the gardens of private homes! In Sweden, Norway and Finland, you can pick berries, mushrooms and certain wild flowers, and pitch your tent for the night wherever you like (unless there are special restrictions), provided you ask permission from the landowner if he or she is nearby. In return, you must be very careful not to disturb the local inhabitants. Hunting is obviously not included in this freedom. Be sure to respect the restrictive zones.
Wildlife in the Boreal Region
Reindeer. Lapland's most emblematic animal. The Saami language has some 400 words for it! With its long, dense coat, short tail and snout, the reindeer is perfectly adapted to its habitat. Its concave hooves, splayed like mini-snowshoes, enable it to move around easily. In the water, they act as paddles (and are excellent swimmers). In winter, the reindeer still uses its hooves to find food by clearing snow from the ground. The reindeer can then spot plants thanks to its excellent sense of smell, but its eyesight is considered mediocre. For a long time, it was thought that the reindeer only fed on lichens, but the profusion of plants, which take advantage of the intense Arctic summer to bloom and sow their seeds, provides it with a diversified diet that enables it to withstand the rigors of winter. Reindeer can reach speeds of up to 80 km/h. They can be seen everywhere, on roads, in villages, as stuffed animals at gas stations, as steaks in restaurants... Each reindeer belongs to a Saami family, so they're not entirely wild (apart from a few rebels). However, they are unpredictable animals, and it's best not to disturb them. If you come across one on the side of the road, slow down and let the horde pass without getting involved. Rarely frightened by cars, this will give you a chance to observe the majestic reindeer up close, as it crosses at its own pace.
Moose. Moose are a common sight in the Lapland region, but you'll be lucky to catch a glimpse of one! The moose is not aggressive by nature, but if you do come across one, stay calm and don't approach! The animal is colossal, and you wouldn't stand a chance... Watch from a distance, and let it go. They're usually a long way from built-up areas, so you're more likely to catch a glimpse if you drive inland on desert roads. Moose are one of the main causes of accidents in Lapland. They're like the Swedish wild boar. Alone or in groups, they cross the road at full speed and without warning. Stay alert, and especially if you see one at the side of the road, don't stop until it's far enough away.
The brown bear. Once so feared that it was taboo to even utter its name, the brown bear remains impressive to this day. This animal lives in the forests of Lapland, but don't expect to come across it, it's so discreet. Hunting is highly regulated - rules vary from country to country. Only the Saami are allowed to kill them all year round, if they threaten the reindeer herd. One thing you should know about bears: there are no polar bears in Lapland (although this animal is often mentioned in Lappish museums). The nearest polar bears are to be found in Greenland and Spitsbergen!
The wolf. There are many more wolves in Sweden than in Finland, from which they have gradually been driven out (by industry and deforestation). Fear not, the chances of encountering one are slim to none.
The glutton. This is the largest member of the mustelid family, which includes weasels and badgers. This carnivorous mammal measures 40 cm in height and 1 m in length, and is known not only for its insatiable hunger - the name has passed into common parlance - but also for its strength and ferocity. A stalking hunter, it attacks reindeer and even elk, often posted on low tree branches. A great walker, it is extremely bold, venturing into hunters' huts and, mischievously, visiting traps and devouring the catch without being caught. This animal is one of the most feared in the Far North. The wolverine is the only species to be found in very small numbers, and this is undoubtedly a good thing for the locals, as it poses a real problem. Indeed, the loss of reindeer to predators is always compensated for by compensation, after the animal has been identified, usually by ear. However, the hunting technique used by wolverines means that they rip off the reindeer's head, making it more difficult to justify the loss.
White-tailed eagle. Among the animals of interest is a large eagle with a massive silhouette: the white-tailed eagle, which thrives on the banks of predatory lakes and rivers, on the tundra and in the forest. On the coast, it frequents steep rocky cliffs. Although it preys mainly on waterfowl and fish, it can also feed on corpses in hard times.
Lynx, beaver, Arctic hare, arctic fox and lemming are also emblematic animals of this boreal region.
Lapland's waters are also home to a wealth of wildlife. Renowned for hosting one of the world's largest salmon fishing grounds, the region's river system is also home to trout, burbot and perch.
On the Norwegian coast
Birds. For birdwatchers, the east coast is a little paradise. The mountains along the Norwegian coast are home to many species of seabird. Hundreds of thousands of birds from Runde to the Russian border live on the mountains of the small islands along the coast, feeding and relying on fish. Since the late 1970s, bird species have been disappearing as a result of the over-exploitation of fish such as herring, capelin and mackerel.
Birds to watch include gannets, cormorants, common and Arctic guillemots, sea eagles, razorbills, puffins and peregrine falcons..
Whale watching. The northern Vesterålen and Lofoten islands are where you'll find the most whales. This impressive and fascinating cetacean can be seen all year round around these Norwegian archipelagos. Sperm whales are more likely to be seen in summer, and orcas and humpback whales in winter. Various safaris are available to discover the wonders of the Norwegian coastline - treat yourself to this childhood dream!
Beware: whaling is a sensitive issue! Norway remains one of the last countries, along with Japan and Iceland, to hunt cetaceans off its coasts. A local pride, Norwegians say they do not hunt but "fish" for whales, in order to produce meat for the local market. The European Union is working towards international regulation of this activity.
Watch out for mosquitoes!
In summer, these small pterygote insects are very virulent in Lapland, especially in damp areas close to water. They attack you relentlessly and mercilessly, and their bites are much stronger than those of familiar mosquitoes. They can really ruin a walk, so make sure you're equipped! Buy local mosquito repellent, which is far more effective than that supplied in France for our less voracious mosquitoes! Even better: brave the ridiculous and buy a mosquito net cap if you're planning to hike for several days in summer. Don't forget to cover up completely with slightly loose-fitting clothes, but make sure they're tight at the ends.
The flora
Plant growth is concentrated in the short summer period, when sunshine is almost continuous, and in the tundra. From late May to September, it offers flowerbeds, fields and birch forests. This intense plant production attracts numerous breeding birds, migratory flocks and smaller mammals. Wild berries and mushrooms invade provincial markets in autumn. There are also plenty of currants, bilberries, lingonberries and the curious lakka, polar berries with a distinctive taste that resemble yellow raspberries. On the other hand, Lapland's flora is less diverse than its fauna. Generally speaking, the harsh climate makes it difficult for plants and flowers to grow. Vegetation grows very slowly and remains very low, partly to avoid drying out caused by wind and cold. The local flora consists essentially of taiga and tundra vegetation. Swedish Lapland is home to the rare Arctic orchid, the most northerly of its kind! In the far north, the snow-covered peaks of winter are merciless and almost always covered in sheets of ice. While in some cases the top layer of the ground thaws to a depth of around one metre, the deeper layer remains frozen: this is permafrost (several metres deep). The tundra spreads its carpet of mosses and lichens among arctic birches and dwarf willows. Forests at lower altitudes are mainly spruce, pine and birch. Marshy areas are covered with exuberant flora in spring, including reeds and flowers.
