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Practical information : Eating out Borneo
Timetable
In the big cities, fine dining establishments and hotel restaurants follow classic fixed opening hours. Small local restaurants sometimes have their own opening hours, which vary according to the number of guests, the mood of the owners, their schedule... Generally speaking, breakfast is served between 6am and 9am, lunch between 11am and 2pm and dinner between 6pm and 9pm. Note that restaurants run by Muslims adopt different opening hours on Fridays, to devote themselves to prayer. During Ramadan, many establishments close or open for breakfast before sunrise and reopen at dusk.
Budget & Tips
In cities and tourist resorts, you'll usually find restaurants offering a wide choice of local, Asian and Western cuisine. In Kuala Lumpur, there's a wide choice to suit all budgets. In the Malaysian part of Borneo, you'll find a large number of low-cost local establishments, as well as mid-range and high-end restaurants in the cities (Kuching, Miri, Kota Kinabalu...). In Brunei, prices are a little higher than in the rest of the island. Finally, in Kalimantan, warungs and small street stalls offer very affordable meals.
What costs extra
Tipping. In Malaysia, service (10%) and government taxes (around 6%) are included in hotel and restaurant rates. Tipping is not customary, but there's nothing to stop you from giving one in return for a particularly appreciable service. You are even encouraged to tip hotel staff. 2 to 10 Ringgits will be appreciated from the doorman or chambermaid. There's no need to haggle with Malaysians: prices are fixed, and you risk offending them. On the other hand, don't hesitate with the Chinese: this practice is very common and often turns into gambling.
Taxes. In Malaysia, allow 10% for service and 6% for government tax. Depending on the hotel, these may or may not be included in the price. Check when you are given a rate, as they are usually included, except in top-of-the-range establishments. Taxes must generally be added to the prices quoted in restaurants (check on the menu). These taxes are generally included in the prices of modest or street restaurants.
The local way
Culinary specialties cover a wide spectrum, due to the wide variety of cultures that make up Borneo's population. You'll find Malaysian, Indonesian, Chinese and Indian specialties, as well as Western, Japanese, halal and vegetarian dishes. And don't hesitate to sample the specialties of the island's indigenous tribes, the Dayaks. Finally, take advantage of the incredible diversity of fish and seafood on offer in the markets of the coastal towns.
Many establishments do not serve pork, out of respect for Muslim customers. However, it is possible to find it in some restaurants, notably those run by the Chinese community.
To be avoided
Always use the right hand when eating with Muslims. The left hand is for "impure" functions.
Always remove your shoes before going inside when you are invited to eat in someone's home.
Don't refuse a dish when you're invited to someone's home (except, of course, in the case of allergies or diabetes-type illnesses). Try not to leave anything on your plate, as this will offend your hosts.
Kids
Children are welcome in the vast majority of restaurants. Borneans generally go to restaurants with their families.
Smokers
In the Malaysian and Indonesian parts of the island, smoking is permitted or tolerated outside in restaurants, on terraces or in open areas.
In Brunei, smoking is strictly prohibited in public places.
Tourist traps
Common sense prevails: don't hesitate to check your bill before paying it.