Land nursery and greedy
The culinary art of Istria always focuses on the products of its territory. Between sea and land, farm and istrian fishing provide most ingredients. The well-dining rhymes with market cuisine, good day-to-day even beautiful picking and little import, except for paprika and poppy seeds in Hungary, cinnamon and oriental ginger or some exotic fruits. Ancestral know-how, which has not waited for fashion effects, continues and the short circuit of farmers/fishermen feeds the inspiration of slow food generation. On the red land of the hinterland, you can see the towns and villages perched at the top of the hills, with their fields and meadows, their olive trees and vineyards. It is the field of agro-tourism that is growing rapidly. It corresponds to an official label, awarded to owners who meet certain reception criteria. Housing must remain in the tradition of regional architecture. At the choice, ancient stone stone bastide, farmhouse, castel-châtelet or renovated body of accommodation. This idea of accommodation favors contact with the inhabitants, leads to meeting with small producers, who diversify into tourism. We exchange on the rural daily, opening up to the rhythms of the field work, to be informed in conviviality, generally around a glass of wine and a plate of prosciutto or cheese.
For meals, prefer half board. This will be an opportunity for you to discover local specialties: extra virgin olive oil, sheep's cheese, salting, fish and crustaceans, fermila meat, edible green, wild asparagus, wine and spirits, etc. In return, the visitor will feel that he is traveling in a solidarity way, as he supports the preservation of the land, the fair production methods. Trushier on their way of harvesting, the trufari maintain the myth of white gold in Istria. These truffles are hidden in the region of Motovun, Livade and Buzet. The landscape, on one side of the woodland of green oak, on the other, a fertile valley around the bed of the Mirna River, takes the air of Tuscany and Perigord together. Istrian producers made it their commercial fund by imagining the entire stay in their property, where they set up all the benefits of a charming hotel residence, with gastronomic table, swimming pool, well-being facilities, tour of the regional heritage and discovery of this profession of trufficulator so special. In Pula's tourist offices, Rovinj or Poreč, ask for the year's Gastro booklet for the most rated restaurants that often offer half-board stay.
More modestly, the famous konobas, translate family hostels, offer their rustic menu at any time, in town or on the roads. In the morning, you will be served the istrian manestra, this thick seasonal vegetable soup that field workers took as fuel for a good day! The authenticity of the land makes it a link to the promenades on the harbor, the country walks, the visits of the perched villages. Motovun, Roč and Hum, cradles of the glagolitic culture, but also Pazin, Buzet, Labin, Grožnjan will seduce you. The ideal place would be to stay at one of the Istria Green sites, rarely more than 20 km from the coast.
Unless you prefer traveling holidays! Make Parenzana cycling, for example, 123 km of bike paths through mountains and valleys, a great challenge to realize. Predict the lunch season with fresh market products or those sold on the side of the roads by the farmers themselves. For example, in the Lim fjord parking lot, you will find everything to approach the banks of the canal, 9 km of land covered with dense endemic vegetation plunging into clear water. Do not forget to take the regional maps of the green lane and the list of rural accommodation adapted to the two wheels. The culture of istrian celebrities like that of olive trees, both imported by ancient Romans, draw other tourist routes. In wine cellars or olive fields, you will be told about the rich and fruity native red wine (Teran) of Malvasia, this dry, lively white wine, created from traditional grape varieties.
Blue or Green Istria, chromatic sensations to mix
Often the tour in Istria starts in Pula. We have to stop on the forum, embrace the central square, epicenter of social life and fire the Roman soul of the old town. On the terrace of cafes (you will have the choice of choice) and, as in the theater, admire the décor, this majestic temple of Augustus, twice millennia. The Ulysses coffee, the one that James Joyce attended when he taught English in Pula, looked at him the arc of triumph of the Serge. Other ancient monuments, Byzantine churches, a fortress, a port, museums invite to spend a few days in Pula. Seeing a show or concert in the Roman amphitheater will burn as one of the highlights of your stay.
Back to the northeast coast, if you like the retro atmosphere of English Nice, it's Opatija you need! Take the road to the riviera, the promenade of the sea (Lungomare) bordered by cypress, palm trees, bougainvillea, rosemary and laurels and, like the princes of Europe of the past century, relax in the mild climate, the palaces of their palaces, enter their houses, sleep in their mansions overlooking the Adriatic.
In Poreč, the culture and culture are also good, between sea baths and discovery of heritage. Euphrasian basilica, built in 540 ap. The Byzantine style was classified by UNESCO in 1997. And from Poreč you can also, after 2 hours of ferry crossing, take a trip to Venice, spend the day even more and return to Istria.
Rovinj docking, high in color
Then there is Vrsar, the port where Casanova laid his sea foot and Rovinj, pearl of Istria. You must arrive at Rovinj by sea to seize the silhouette of the polychrome and moving city in the water. Rejuvenation of the houses with red facades, ochre or land of Siena climbing towards the cathedral of Sainte-Euphemia, which dominates the vertiginous Campanile. A panoramic walk around the rocks and ramparts allows you to admire the old town from the outside.
By taking the interior venelles, you will stroll through shops in galleries where artisans expose their works. Souvenir shops have more interest in Rovinj (or Grožnjan) because the small creators are more numerous. A nice shopping before sitting on the terrace for a drink on the harbor. Boaters prefer to follow the rocky coast of Istria Blue. In the program of the scoreboard, the cabotage of ports in islands, freedom in the sails and small stop near the pontoon, to the fisherman's konoba. In general, the menu varies little: Fried calamars, marinated anchovies, salad, grilled daylight and southern vegetables, all accompanied by a small glass of malvazija (malcolm). Another idea of happiness!
Smart News
When is it? The summer period, but you won't be alone! Prefer the average season to avoid the crowd on the coast: spring bloom or Indian summer. From November to April, many schools close, especially inland.
Go there. By plane, Croatia Airlines offers weekly flights between Paris and Pula.
CROATIA AIRLINES - More information on the site
AIR FRANCE - More information on the site
Useful. To best prepare his trip.
◗ ISTRIE REGIONAL TOURISM OFFICE - More information on the site
○ CROATIAN TOURISM OFFICE IN PARIS - More information on the site
