The origins
Hundreds of ancient stones have been found around Sapa. Up to 15 m long and 6 m high, they are decorated with motifs illustrating a thousand-year-old dwelling on stilts, with curved roofs giving the whole structure a boat-like appearance. At Cô Loa, the 1st capital of the Au Lac kingdom, the remains of 3 earthen enclosures can still be seen, which seem to follow a protective spiral pattern. These walls were up to 12 m high and 30 m thick. But it was under Chinese rule that the first citadels were built. At that time, architecture developed that was entirely governed by the laws of geomancy and feng-shui. A divinatory science and art, geomancy is based on the observation of the stars to determine the most propitious location for a building. It respects the laws of Yin and Yang harmony, following the currents of earth (white tiger), water (blue dragon) and wind (green dragon). Yin and Yang are often symbolized by two dragons leaning towards the sun and placed at the top of the roof. An art of living, feng-shui is based on the constant quest for harmony between the individual and his or her environment. Generally speaking, Chinese architecture is highly codified, with everything perfectly determined in advance, notably the proportions of buildings, which are all conceived as an interweaving of volumes and spaces, creating a path towards intimacy and the sacred. In terms of style, this is often referred to as "lacquered" architecture, with successive layers of decorative plaster on walls and columns, or varnish creating stylized patterns on roof tiles. The leading buildings of the period were pagodas(chua) and temples(den). Inspired by the Indian stupa (a reliquary or commemorative monument characteristic of Buddhism), the pagoda is often topped by a multi-storey tower, circular, pyramidal, orthogonal or square in shape; or by a multi-level roof with curved ends. Built in brick or stone, it is divided into three parallel spaces symbolizing the three degrees of time (past, present and future) and linked by corridors or bridges. In Hanoi, the Tran Quoc pagoda is the city's oldest. Built in the 6th century, its main hall is supported by pillars made of ironwood, a local species reputed to be extremely resistant and rot-proof. The temples, on the other hand, are not dedicated to Buddha, but to heroes or geniuses who have worked for the community. They are generally built on an H-shaped plan and surrounded by three walls, the4th side being occupied by an imposing portico. In Hanoi, the Cau Dông (Quan Dê) temple impresses with its beautifully carved ironwood frame.
Royal splendors
From the 10th century onwards, the great Vietnamese dynasties reconquered power, without however denying Chinese influences and teachings, as evidenced by the royal cities reminiscent of the great Imperial City. Entered through grand portals, they feature spacious courtyards lined with richly decorated palaces and pavilions. This splendor was complemented by new urban planning techniques, as evidenced by the creation of sewers and wells. In Hanoi, the central sector of the imperial city of Thâng Long is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built on the remains of an ancient Chinese citadel, the city has preserved some fine examples of this period, starting with the Hau Lau Palace and the Doan Mon Gate. During the dynastic period, Buddhism became the state religion. A vast program of pagoda construction began. While the buildings were largely based on the codes of Chinese pagodas, the dynastic power also incorporated new elements. The frameworks were entirely designed according to ingenious assembly systems, using only wooden pegs rather than nails. Local craftsmanship shines through in all its beauty. On the one hand, there's the woodcarving found on doors, beams and columns. Then there's the terracotta tile work. Generally speaking, roofs are made up of two layers of tiles: a layer of flat tiles, and a layer of decorative tiles, usually in the shape of a half-moon or mulberry leaf. The layout of the tiles is also used to create motifs, from soothing waves to mythical, protective animal designs. These pagodas are most often built around courtyards and interior gardens populated by elaborate steles and polychrome statues. The Pagoda du Maître in Sai Son, the Pagoda des Cannes à Sucre in Duong Lam, the Pagoda Keo in Duy Nhât and above all the Pagoda Mot Cot (du Pilier Unique) in Hanoi are among the finest examples from the dynastic period. At the same time, numerous temples were also built, bearing witness to a great deal of work in terms of landscape architecture, as they were surrounded by sumptuous gardens dotted with ponds. The temples are often flanked by square pavilions with curved roofs, forming complexes that are entered through elegant porticoes. In theancient capital of Hoa Lu, the Dinh Tien Hoang Temple stands out, with its enclosure decorated with openwork and glazed green ceramics. But the most famous temple of the dynastic period is undoubtedly the Temple of Literature in Hanoi, with its impressive dimensions: 70 x 350 m!
Colonial heritage
For Paul Bert, the Governor General, it was a question of inscribing French colonial power in stone. In Hanoi, major drainage works were undertaken to create roads and canals, while the new city plan included long tree-lined avenues. In terms of style, the colonial government opted for the neoclassical, with its Corinthian columns, triangular pediments and other elegant sculptural details. The architects of the Hanoi Opera House were inspired by... the Opéra Garnier! The Presidential Palace, with its pastel yellow color and wrought-iron gates, is reminiscent of the great European palaces. At the same time, the colonial powers developed a religious architecture with historicist overtones, especially neo-Gothic and neo-Romanesque. Saint Joseph's Cathedral in Hanoi is the most famous example. Although European styles were widely used, the architects commissioned by the colonial authorities were quick to understand the need to adapt architecture to the local climate and culture. Residential homes featured long corridors, thick walls, protective awnings, verandas and patios for ventilation. The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, built at this time, with its 265 rooms organized around an elegant patio, is a perfect example; as is the French barracks in the heart of Hanoi's Citadel, with its arcaded galleries and veranda. In terms of religion, the East/West syncretism is represented by the astonishing Phat Diêm Cathedral, in Ninh Binh province. Its impressively-proportioned nave (80 m long, 24 m wide, 16 m high) has, like many Western churches, a frame in the shape of an inverted ship's hull. Gilded and carved, its altarpieces are rococo, while its semicircular arches are Romanesque. The roof, however, is modelled entirely on that of a pagoda. The colonial presence also manifested itself in the creation of engineering masterpieces, such as the 1682 m long Paul Doumer Bridge, the construction of which was supervised by Gustave Eiffel himself. During this period, some members of the Vietnamese elite had authentic little palaces built, blending European and Oriental codes. The Château du Roi Hmong de Sa Phin is without doubt the most famous. Constructed of Siam wood enhanced with jade stone, and sculpted with dragons and phoenixes, the building is organized around courtyards in the oriental manner, but its double-flight staircases, columned veranda and slightly pompous decor are reminiscent of the French influence!
Since Independence
With independence, the country turned to a brutalist modernism with resolutely Soviet overtones. Neostalinist architecture, which itself often borrowed from classical canons, was the primary inspiration. The mausoleum of President Hô Chi Minh, a temple-like granite monolith in the center of Hanoi's Ba Dinh Square, is a perfect example. It was also during this period that large concrete blocks were built to contain the ever-expanding urban population. Faced with this demographic explosion, large urban centers such as Hanoi were faced with a major difficulty: the topography did not allow for infinite expansion. Cities must therefore opt for verticality. Even before skyscrapers, of which the Keangnam Tower (336 m) and the Lotte Center (272 m) are the great representatives, Hanoi had seen the development of astonishing vertical structures: tube houses. In the historic heart of the city, in the former guild district, you can discover these homes, which can be recognized by their narrow facade (max. 3 m wide) and their multi-storey structure stacked like containers (from 2 to 7). The facade usually features a shop or workshop, which opens onto a succession of corridors, courtyards and living quarters, creating an astonishing effect of depth over several dozen meters. Of course, the lack of space explains this search for verticality... but the tax imposed on the width of facades also justifies this choice! A reinterpretation of traditional shop-houses, these tube-houses often feature beautifully stylized and ornamented storefronts. While the preservation of tradition and heritage is an important element, North Vietnam is also open to renewal. Hanoi, for example, boasts a number of buildings by Gmp Architects that blend elegance, tradition and modernity. The Hanoi Museum, for example, features a luminous, circular central atrium set in a perfect square, while three levels of cantilevered terraces create an inverted pyramid shape on the outside. The National Assembly, with its circular plenary hall floating above its square base, is another of the agency's beautiful creations. Glass, beige stone, bronze-colored metal, wood and trees blend harmoniously with the surrounding environment. Foster & Partners' Techcombank Headquarters Hanoi is no exception. This 22-storey building has been awarded the highest certification for sustainable architecture. Environmental concerns are also reflected in the Ecopark, the largest ecological urban district north of Hanoi, which boasts over 110 hectares of green space and is the setting for luxurious apartments and villas. Astronomy Park is a fascinating illustration of the potential of landscape architecture. This former retention basin has been redesigned to plunge us... into space! The walker crosses a milky way full of colors and lighting effects, and crosses squares where sculptures symbolizing the Big Bang or UFOs rise up! Some projects take this desire to become one with nature a step further. The Dao Mau Museum in Hien Ninh is an astonishing complex nestled in the heart of the forest. The galleries were built using clay tiles salvaged from old traditional houses. These functional blocks are organized around untouched nature, as evidenced by the large roots snaking between the buildings. Architect Vo Trong Nghia, a great advocate of bamboo architecture, created the Bamboo Wing in Dai Lai. This "wing" extends over 1,600m2 and has a span of over 12 m, demonstrating the incredible architectural properties of bamboo. Last but not least, don't miss the Ceramic Community House in Bat Trang, whose architecture is an ode to the artisans of this craft village (of which there are dozens around Hanoi). Made of bricks and tiles, the structure is composed of "wheels" that interlock to create supple, moving forms, as if sculpted on a potter's wheel!
Vernacular riches
Traditional villages in North Vietnam are organized around key elements: the well, the thousand-year-old banyan tree, altars dedicated to ancestors, granaries on stilts to preserve foodstuffs, and the community house called Dinh. A cultural and spiritual center, this house is adorned with intricate carvings and details testifying to its importance. The Suoi Ré Community House, in Cu Yen commune, built in 2012, is a perfect example of the perpetuation of this ancestral tradition. Vernacular architecture demonstrates the full potential of natural, local materials: wood, bamboo, palm and rice thatch. In the river valleys, houses are usually made of wood and built on stilts to protect against flooding. With their many windows, they also have balconies for permanent ventilation. In mountainous regions, on the other hand, cob houses are often built on the ground level, with no windows to keep out the cold. Among the many ethnic groups living in northern Vietnam, the Tay have developed a very particular type of architecture. Their vast houses on stilts are oval in plan. They are framed by wide verandas and topped by an imposing roof made of "straw hut grass", the shape of which symbolizes the shell of a turtle. Grouped together but carefully spaced, these houses create airy villages where orchards, vegetable gardens and bamboo groves play a vital role, all protected by bamboo hedges. To discover these vernacular treasures, you can visit the Museum of Vietnamese Ethnography in Hanoi, where community houses have been reconstructed; Sapa, which boasts museum huts, a kind of ethnic village; or better still, you can stay directly with the locals! Do you prefer the sea to the mountains? For a truly astonishing experience, why not spend a night in a wooden junk-hotel. Rocked by the waves, you'll have a front-row seat to admire Ha Long Bay, North Vietnam's natural splendor and a UNESCO World Heritage Site!
