The origins of pho
Where did the spark that set the world ablaze come from? The origins of pho are lost in the mists of time, the confusion of memories and the cuisine of theories of varying degrees of futility. According to one theory, pho is merely an adaptation of our pot-au-feu, and its appearance is linked to the growing consumption of red meat during the colonial period. Prior to the French presence, cattle were mainly used as draught animals and beef, reserved for feast days, rarely featured on the Vietnamese menu. Also in support of this theory of French influence is a striking resemblance between pho and pot-au-feu, noted by the most discerning of maître-queux: the shallot and old ginger burned on the griddle of the former echo the onion cooked on the grill of the latter. Both dishes use the same method, which enhances taste and preserves nutritional virtues. This contributes to the identity of pho, which distinguishes it from other Asian noodle soups. Another, not inconsistent, genealogy traces pho 's origins to Nam Dinh, a town in the south of the Red River delta which, in the early 20thcentury , became a stronghold of the textile industry with the establishment of the "Cotonnière". In 1939, at the height of its activity, the "Cotonnière" ran 24 hours a day, with three shifts working eight hours each. It employed almost 14,000 workers and a European workforce of 38. The emergence of the pho was therefore a consequence of industrialization. New lifestyles - the "three eights", the intermingling of French and Vietnamese populations, the emergence of wage-earners and the working class - would have prompted the invention of a new cuisine. The pho brings the consumer face-to-face with his bowl, a situation that contrasts with the traditional setting of the Vietnamese meal, eaten as a family around a shared platter (the mâm). The preparation of pho in huge pots and its character as a single, satisfying dish are perfectly suited to the needs of collective catering and to the rhythm of shift rotation in the spinning mills. The success of pho in the age of globalization has therefore come full circle, pointing back to its birthplace at the crossroads of foreign influences and new production methods.
The essence of pho
But what exactly is pho? According to the most common definitions, it's a Vietnamese dish served in an individual bowl, made from fresh rice noodles(banh pho), steamed and cut into thin strips, onto which are placed pieces of boiled beef or chicken, onion and spring onion. Bone broth and dried shrimp, simmered over low heat and flavored with various spices, are added. Each person then seasons to taste with chilli, vinegar, nuoc mam (brine) or lemon juice. But it's clear that pho can't be confined to dictionaries. Pho is more alchemy than chemistry, more elixir than formula. There's no dosimeter or ingredient weighed with a trebuchet. Each kitchen has its own chef's secret and a different taste, where cooking techniques come into play, determining how the broth is enriched by the precious nutrients released by the bones and how it sublimates the aromas distilled by the herbs and spices. Taste is also enhanced by the subtle interplay of textures, where the velvety texture of the noodles ( pho is best enjoyed as soon as it's served, otherwise the noodles will drown and lose their hold), the gentle resistance of the thinly sliced beef and the crunch of the fresh bean sprouts added at the last minute (from the South, they've conquered the North). Pho is also the product of an ongoing history, and is constantly evolving. Northern pho(pho bac) differs from southern pho(pho nam). After the Geneva Accords in 1954, hundreds of thousands of Tonkinese fled the Communist regime, preferring to settle in the South. They took with them the memory of pho, but under the influence of a less frugal lifestyle, it was to be transformed. Pho nam , which is no less authentic than pho bac, makes infidelities to beef. It accommodates chicken(pho ga) and even tripe. Herb garnishes are more abundant and diversified, and nuoc mam is used much more generously. Betrayal of the founding fathers and mothers? No, everything has to change for nothing to change, and despite the false prophets, pho bac, faced with wartime shortages, was more often pho lon( porkpho ) than pho bo( beefpho ). Of course, not everything is permitted. Is pho with salmon, or even foie gras, still pho? In the face of haphazard experimentation, pho doesn't need defending. Born of foreign interference, it has paradoxically become a kind of national totem, testifying to the resilience of Vietnamese identity, capable of enriching itself without betraying itself.
Last but not least, from a dietary point of view, pho is a balanced, very healthy and light dish, suitable for the whole family. Bone broth strengthens the immune system, nourishes the joints, eases digestive system disorders, boosts bone mineralization and helps with weight loss... The herbs and spices are a veritable cocktail of minerals, trace elements and vitamins. A popular soup eaten by all social classes and appreciated the world over, it's never as good as in a Vietnamese gargote. A must for travelers, who will soon be demanding their daily pho. In Hanoi, pho is usually served in the morning, and you'll find some very good addresses in the Central and Old Quarters (e.g. Pho Su'ong, Pho Gia Truyên, Pho Thin).
