The motorcyclist's equipment

The helmet

It is not only because it must be worn (on the head, with the chin strap closed), but also because it protects the most fragile and important organ of our body that its choice must be made with care. There are four types of helmets: full face, jet, modular and convertible. All of them must have a European CE standard (the French NF standard is still accepted but is on the way out) and have four self-reflective stickers. Beware of purchases made outside Europe!
A full-face motorcycle offers the best safety and soundproofing, an important criterion during long days on the road. But it is not the most practical and sometimes suffers from a too restricted field of vision. The letter P must appear on the standard. The modular is appreciated for its practicality. When stopping, it is not necessary to remove it to talk, hear and enjoy a little fresh air, just raise the chin strap. To determine if your helmet is approved for open or closed use, look for the letters J/P (not P alone) on the standard. The jet leaves the face exposed to external elements (insects, gravel, pollution particles, rain...) and, more seriously, in case of a fall. It should only be used at low speed and behind a bubble. Those equipped with a face shield provide more protection from external elements, but very little in case of an accident. The letter J appears on the standard. The convertible can be a full face helmet or a jet helmet by keeping or removing the removable chin strap. Most of the major brands offer such a model. In any case, check the approval: the letter P specifies that the chin strap provides full protection of the jaw, the letters NP indicate that the jaw protection is not integral.
After checking the standard, buy a helmet only after having judged its comfort (positioning of the foams and chinstrap, sound insulation, interior ventilation, space offered for wearing glasses or others...) and that it is exactly your size. It should be neither too big nor too tight at the level of the skull because the foam at this level will not relax with time and the pain that will be perceived after a few minutes (or even several tens of minutes) will quickly become unbearable. In any case, do not buy a used helmet!
When should I change my helmet? If the recommendation to change a helmet every five years persists, it is however only an advice (and in general the limit of guarantee proposed by the manufacturer). A well-maintained helmet with little UV exposure can last longer. However, regardless of its age, it is essential to replace it in case of a major impact or accident. Even if the helmet seems to be intact, the inner liner that acted as a shock absorber during the first impact will probably not be able to do so a second time. It is because the damage can be invisible that you should never buy a used helmet.
If you haven't opted for a model with removable interior linings, you should also change helmets as soon as the interior foams no longer play their supporting role.

The screen

Remember that the part of the helmet that wears out the fastest is its screen, and that it affects your vision of the road. Take care of it by not damaging the external part (equipped with an anti-scratch film) and do not hesitate to change it if the transparency is not optimal anymore.
The screen protects your eyes from air currents but also from insects and various projections. If your helmet does not have one or if you really want to ride with an open screen, wear a pair of glasses and (if you have one) raise your bubble to the maximum.
Some screens allow you to install a removable anti-fog lens (Pinlock film, named after the Dutch company Pinlock): an accessory that quickly proves to be indispensable in winter but also during temperature changes and rainy seasons when fogging is frequent. Never clean this very fragile utensil with a cloth, even a very fine one. Instead, wash by hand with soap and water and air dry. Be careful, this anti-fog lens, even if not tinted, is not approved for night driving because it reduces light transmission below European standards (80% for night driving).

The necklace and the hood

A neck warmer keeps the neck and nape of the neck warm when the temperatures get low. In summer, it is an additional protection against insect infiltration. It is best to choose a water-repellent, breathable and seasonally appropriate (warm in winter, thin in summer). For the coldest weather, neck warmers, which cover the neck but also the upper part of the chest, are also a possibility.
A balaclava becomes essential when the icy air seeps into the helmet. Some hoods cover the face, which remains uncovered, and others have openings for the eyes. In the latter case, when purchasing, make sure that the field of vision is preserved. Also remember that the air circulating less well in the helmet because of the thickness of the hood can be conducive to the formation of fog. As for the neck strap, remember to choose the material that best suits your use and comfort.

Jacket - Jacket

Each type of motorcycle jacket has its strengths and weaknesses, depending on its intended use. Ideally, you should have a garment for each season (summer, winter, mid-season), in leather or specific textile, but a choice is necessary, most of the time for budget reasons. Here are some criteria to help you make your choice.
The material of the outer layer must be resistant to abrasion. Jackets made of leather or specific textile fibers such as Cordura are very efficient. The leather must be of good quality (full grain, more than one millimeter thick) and well stitched.
The quality of the shells (shoulders and elbows, even chest) and the backrest is the second criterion. We now find CE approved soft or hard shells in all jackets. The quality of the back protectors is more uncertain. Almost all the ones that are integrated in the original equipment are ineffective. Solutions to this shortcoming: either replace the original protection with a quality removable protection, or invest in an independent back protection, fixed with straps and a belt, made of plastic "vertebrae" and equipped with foam for more comfort. There are also protective vests that cover the entire trunk. A particularly effective material used for the design of the protections is 3DO, an orange foam whose particularity is to harden instantly in case of impact.
The visibility of the product to other drivers must be taken into account at the time of purchase. At night, without a fluorescent vest, a dark jacket will make it difficult to identify you on the road, especially in case of an accident.
Waterproofness and breathability are essential. They depend on the quality of the membrane that immediately doubles the outer layer, but also on the general design of the garment. A 100% waterproof membrane is useless if water enters through the seams, zippers, collar, pockets... Conversely, the garment must be able to evacuate perspiration to prevent the biker from "cooking in his juice". On these last two criteria, leather is very often penalized. Some synthetic materials are more economical, more waterproof, more breathable and lighter; they also dry more quickly and require less maintenance.
For summer, mesh fabrics are very comfortable: the mesh allows air to pass through, resulting in effective ventilation thanks to the relative wind. Obviously, this becomes much less efficient as soon as the bike stops... In the absence of a "special heat wave" garment, the biker can be satisfied with a mid-season garment with air vents on the arms, shoulders and chest. For more comfort, you can try the thermal vest. This vest works with the water contained in the membrane and allows to lower the temperature from 6 to 15 ° C degrees depending on the model. Among the manufacturers, we can mention the Dutch Macna (Dry Cooling Vest) and Revit (Challenger), the Italian Alpinestars (Cooling Vest) or the German BMW (CoolDown).
In winter, the removable thermal lining, which sometimes also acts as a waterproof membrane, exists in different qualities depending on the materials used, more or less insulating and breathable, just like the jacket. An under-jacket made of fleece or a technical material that facilitates heat retention will compensate for the weaknesses of a mid-season garment.
Finally, think about the practical side of the jacket: interior and exterior pockets, adjustment systems (Velcro, snaps, etc.) depending on the clothes worn underneath, whether or not the shells and reflective elements can be removed (essential for being seen at night, especially next to the motorcycle, or even on the road in case of a fall)...

The airbag system

The motorcycle airbag, which can be integrated as standard into a jacket or specific vest, or worn as a vest under or over conventional protective clothing, is marketed in France by several manufacturers, including Hit-Air, Helite, Bering, Dainese, Alpinestars, Ixon - In&motion and Hi-Airbag Connect.
In the event of ejection, the airbag inflates in less than a few milliseconds. Most products protect the neck, back, ribs, thorax and coccyx. After a few seconds, the airbag gradually deflates.
In addition to the wired airbag, most designers offer an electronic airbag (with no cord connected to the motorcycle), giving the wearer complete freedom of movement, but requiring periodic recharging. Their decisive advantage is that they activate in the event of strong deceleration (impact with a fixed or moving object), even if the wearer is not disconnected from the motorcycle. This is not the case with a wired airbag.
The most advanced electronic airbags no longer need sensors attached to your machine. In this case, it's the price that counts. Some manufacturers offer the purchase of these electronic models with a monthly subscription for continuous product updating, which offsets the cost of the regular check-up usually required for this type of equipment. Rental with purchase option is also on the agenda.
As more and more insurance companies and mutual insurers are encouraging the purchase of an airbag, it's advisable to check with your insurer to find out about any purchase facilities or compensation offered. Since 2018, airbags have been compulsory during motorcycle Grand Prix events. If the champions use them, why shouldn't we?
Before making any purchase, check the product's CE certification and make sure that the system will cover the neck, back, hips and chest in the event of an accident.
Note that since 2020, an airbag overtrouser has been marketed by French startup CX Air Dynamic. As the lower limbs are statistically the most exposed in a fall, this innovation is enjoying well-deserved success.

The lumbar belt

A lumbar belt will not protect you from shocks, but it will spare your back, which is put to the test on certain machines during long journeys. Beware, it will lead to a relaxation of the muscles in the long run, which can make the remedy worse than the disease.

The gloves

During a fall, the hands are systematically in the front line. For this reason, the wearing of gloves was made mandatory by French law on November 20, 2016. This measure concerns the driver as well as the passenger and the gloves worn must be CE labeled. However, if the CE standard defines a minimum level of protection, it does not however correspond to a single model and your choice must also take into account other criteria.
There are models for winter, summer and mid-season, hot or cold, rainy or dry. For gloves worn in the rain, choose waterproof and breathable items. When buying gloves, be careful not to confuse the words "waterproof" (which allows water to slide off) with "waterproof" (which prevents water from passing through).
Two types of materials are available: leather and textile. Although leather has often proven its superiority for resistance, solid seams and protections (shells and reinforcements in specific materials: carbon, Kevlar...) are essential. Make sure you choose the right glove size. This will allow you to keep the qualities of grip and sensitivity of the controls, but also to handle (when stopped) your GPS without having to remove your gloves. This size can vary from one brand and model to another, and between summer, mid-season and winter gloves. The fork part of the fingers should be in contact with the skin and your fingers should not touch the end of the gloves. Keep a slight margin with the tip.
Choose gloves with a wrist or cuff to prevent rain and cold air from seeping in, and also to ensure a good fit in case of a fall. Try them on with your jacket to make sure the fit is right. When it rains, water runs down the sleeve and into the gloves, so the cuff should be tucked into the armhole of the jacket. In cold weather, it is better to put it on top.
Do not neglect the presence of additional protections. They will prevent you from serious trauma in case of a fall. In addition to the reinforcement on the palm, shells at the level of the joints are to be preferred. The indication KP1 or KP2 appears on the label of the gloves when they are coated.
Useful accessories include a squeegee to wipe your visor in the rain, attached to the index finger of the glove, and sensitive tips, for better use of GPS and smartphones (always when stopped!)."

The trousers - The overalls

Safety requires that the entire body surface be covered. It makes sense to avoid shorts and Bermuda shorts, even in 40 degree shade. Instead, check your pants for vents, often located at the thighs but also at the top of the buttocks. Whatever model of pants you choose, make sure it is CE certified and has the motorcycle logo.
Leather motorcycle pants are an excellent solution, both in terms of safety and cold. On the other hand, motorcycle pants made of specific textiles offer the advantage of being waterproof and breathable. In addition to the essential integrated knee pads, choose models that also have hip protectors and do not neglect the reflective devices. An interesting alternative for city dwellers or for outings that are not just for motorcycles: reinforced jeans, specifically developed for two-wheelers, have reinforcements that are invisible from the outside and are extremely resistant to abrasion. Here again, choose models with protective shells on the knees and hips.
The overpants (to be distinguished from the overpants for rain) allow you to put on over your everyday pants a piece of equipment that has both an excellent resistance to abrasion and approved protections (knees and hips, obviously). It can be waterproof or not and have a thermal lining. Choose a model with complete closures (from the top of the thigh to the bottom of the leg) so that you can put it on and take it off easily.
More often used by long-distance bikers, the overalls undeniably protect against cold air and humidity. On the other hand, they are less practical than pants when it comes to getting rid of them without removing part of the effects covering the upper body...like sometimes in the toilet!

Boots - Shoes

There are many models of boots or shoes approved for motorcycling (CE marking). Whether it is one or the other, they must meet several criteria: be waterproof, be flexible enough to feel the controls, be at least equipped with protections on the tip of the foot and at the malleolus, have non-slip soles. For summer or all-day wear, choose models made of breathable materials. As for the non-slip soles, make sure when you buy them that they are also non-slip on wet surfaces. Motorcycle boots, made of leather or synthetic materials, offer the best protection because they support and protect the ankle but also cover the shin and often have specific protections at this level.
Special motorcycle shoes will be more comfortable if you keep them on your feet all day. In addition to the casual "sneaker" style models, manufacturers have taken into account the suit and tie requirements of many two-wheeler users who commute to work every day. Particularly aesthetic models (without making them real works of art) are thus available on the market. In addition to the protections on the tip of the foot and the malleolus, a reinforcement at the place of the selector will allow a less fast wear. One of the most important points to check for shoes with laces is the possibility to keep them away from the footrest and the selector. There is nothing more unpleasant than falling when you stop, when you want to put your foot on the ground and the lace, caught in the footrest, drags you irremediably to the ground! Always reduce their length, or tuck them into your shoes (many shoe models now allow you to keep the top of the lace under a tongue). The same recommendation applies to pants that do not fit properly around the ankles and that are too loose and can also catch on the footrest or selector when you put your foot down!

Additional protections

In addition to the discomfort they cause, too much light and constant noise are additional factors of fatigue. On the other hand, the rain and cold reduce your ability to react quickly in case of danger. Fortunately, there are effective solutions to all these problems.

Protecting yourself from brightness. To protect your eyes from strong light, many helmets offer a double sun screen. Otherwise, it is possible to use a tinted main screen or sunglasses. However, it is important to remember that the bright sun can suddenly give way to the darkness of the tunnels and that the approach of dusk is always a delicate moment for the motorcyclist.

The double sun screen integrated into the helmet. Its first interest is to be available at any time, with a simple gesture of the hand. Its second is that it is perfectly suited to glasses wearers, and its third is that it weighs down the helmet very little and avoids the clutter of a pair of sunglasses placed in the pockets. Despite these undeniable qualities, its disadvantages are multiple: its anti-scratch treatment is generally much less than that of a classic screen, it is not removable and therefore difficult to clean, and it offers only one type of tint, which cannot be changed. In addition, the actual UV protection is difficult to verify.
There are tinted screens with several degrees of contrast. However, screens with a light transmission of less than 50% are prohibited on the road. This is particularly the case with "iridium" screens, which are reserved exclusively for competition. The use of screens with a light transmission of less than 80% is forbidden at night, so two screens, one normal and the other tinted, will often be necessary during a long journey. Note that some manufacturers offer helmets with a photochromic screen (the Belgian Lazer Helmets and its Monaco Evo helmet with Lumino screen, for example), ideal for routes where the sun plays hide-and-seek and can be used at night.
Wearing sunglasses is the solution for helmets without screens. However, sunglasses have a number of disadvantages: they have to be removed/reinserted systematically with the helmet (a rather tedious operation when the routes are short and numerous) or when the light changes (tunnels, clouds, etc.). The space they take up in your pockets is nothing compared to the risk of forgetting them (on a table or when changing jackets), not to mention the fact that the frames and lenses are potentially liable to injure your face in the event of a fall: avoid steel frames at all costs, which are very dangerous in the event of an accident, and prefer organic lenses to mineral lenses. In any case, remember that the maximum protection index authorized for driving glasses is 3 (UV3), and that polarized lenses are not recommended in combination with a closed screen, because they disturb the sharpness of vision. Photochromic glasses, which darken or lighten according to the light intensity, are to be preferred without hesitation.

Protect yourself from noise. The best way to increase insulation against external noise is to use appropriate hearing protection. These are not simple earplugs but products adapted to the world of motorcycling, equipped with a high-tech acoustic filter. Their interest? They considerably attenuate external noises (especially wind noise) without reducing the perception of safety signals (horns) or the voice of your passenger. Their price is generally around 30 €. Never use traditional earplugs (foam or silicone) which do not have an acoustic filter.

Protect yourself from the rain. Leather may be an excellent protection in case of a fall, but it is not waterproof. Similarly, textile garments with waterproof and breathable membranes eventually let water through after hours of continuous rain. Miracle solutions are therefore difficult to find. The most effective and cheapest solution is a full-body rain suit or a waterproof PVC-coated polyamide jacket and pants with heat-sealed seams, which can be worn over the traditional motorcycle jacket and pants. Remember when buying that you will sometimes have to put on these items very quickly against the rain and without always having the benefit of a shelter. Therefore, pants with a full zipper (up to the waist) are to be preferred. Some models allow you to insert knee protectors. Reflective strips, extra pockets, an integrated hood (for walking in the rain when the motorcycle is parked), breathable fabric, are all additional assets that will quickly increase the price of the product. For the hands and feet, in case of heavy rain or a long ride under the showers, it is advisable to also equip yourself with overgloves and overboots. Make sure that you maintain good control sensitivity on the handlebars, but also on your feet.

Without rain gear, waterproofing products for leather or textiles will allow you to get through a short shower, remembering to renew the treatment regularly. On leather items, when maintaining them, do not hesitate to alternate waxing and grease in order to improve the waterproofing of the skin, but also of the seams.

Protect yourself from the cold. In addition to the possibilities of equipping the motorcycle that we have described in the chapter "Comfort accessories", there are many individual equipment to help the cold biker to bear the rigors of winter, starting with silk undergloves, warm underwear, neck warmers and balaclavas. The investment is inexpensive and will mostly be suitable for short outings.

Although the use of single-use or reusable warmers is no longer favored by motorcycle equipment manufacturers, these little bags to slip into your clothes still exist and can help you out until you purchase more serious equipment. Some jackets were still available until recently with special pockets to hold them.
When basic equipment becomes insufficient, it becomes necessary to invest in heated equipment such as gloves, socks, pants, underpants, vests and jackets that many manufacturers offer. Most of the equipment available requires a 12-volt connection directly to the motorcycle's battery or through the cigarette lighter that some machines have.
As far as heated gloves are concerned, several manufacturers (Gerbing, Furygan, Racer, V'Quatro, etc.) offer excellent wireless and rechargeable products, with several heating levels. However, the autonomy of the batteries and their lifespan must be taken into account when purchasing.
For the most sensitive feet, you can easily find on the net rechargeable battery heating insoles that will slip easily into your boots or shoes.

European protection standards

The homologation of the equipment depends on the respect of certain European standards which must be indicated on the product:

Helmets are certified by the ECE 22-04 or ECE 22-05 standards. A white label on the helmet with the letter E followed by a number indicates the European country where the approval was carried out. The French standard (NF) is no longer used, but items with this green label are still allowed.

The jackets and pants are certified by the EN 13595 standard. They are equipped with protections against impacts, themselves EN 1621 standard and divided into 3 categories:

EN 1621-1 - elbow/shoulder/knee/hip protections (2 levels of protection).
EN 1621-2 - back protections (2 levels of protection).
EN 1621-3 - thoracic protections.

Airbags do not yet benefit from a harmonized standard at European level. However, they are level 2 personal protective equipment (PPE) and manufacturers must obtain CE certification issued by approved laboratories before they can be placed on the market.

The gloves are certified by the EN 13 594 standard and are part of the personal protective equipment (PPE). The duration of resistance to abrasion of the materials used is 4 seconds for level 1 (previously 1.5 seconds) and 8 seconds for level 2. In addition, the standard has introduced increased performance levels for finger, fork and wrist line protection. As far as knuckle protection is concerned, 3 types of approval exist and are indicated in addition to the CE marking: protective gloves without knuckle protection (1), protective gloves with knuckle protection (1 KP - KP stands for "knuckle protection"), protective gloves with knuckle protection (2 KP).

The wearing of CE certified gloves is mandatory since November 20, 2016 for all (motorcyclists and scooterists, three-wheelers, quads, drivers and passengers), except for vehicles equipped with seat belts and doors. Failure to comply with this measure will result in a 3rd class fine (€68, reduced to €45 if paid within 15 days) and the withdrawal of one point from the driver's license if he is the offender. See decree 2016-1232 and corresponding order of September 19, 2016.

The boots and shoes are certified by the EN 13634 standard.

Source : www.securite-routiere.gouv.fr