Madagascar, the "Big Island" of the Indian Ocean, evokes many fantasies for even the most seasoned travelers. This "island-continent", this "sanctuary of nature", as it is regularly nicknamed, has multiple options for those who wish to discover it. The boiling Tana - as the capital Antananarivo is affectionately called -, the mythical RN7 in the South, its dream islands, from Nosy Be to Sainte-Marie, or the region of Diego Suarez in the North, the possibilities are infinite. One can imagine a trip to discover the pearls of the North: Diego Suarez and its indolent harbor atmosphere, treks in the Amber Mountain National Park and towards the Red Tsingy or traditional boat trips on the Emerald Sea, everyone will find something to do. Located at the tip of Madagascar, bordered by the Mozambique Channel to the west and the Indian Ocean to the east, the northern region has a tropical climate divided into two distinct seasons: the dry season (mid-March to mid-December) and the rainy season (mid-December to mid-March). However, the climate changes according to the relief. It is thus an extreme region where nature and vegetation vary abruptly from one place to another.

The surroundings of Diego Suarez, the big city in the North, are red and green. Responsible for these nuances, the highest peak of Madagascar, the Tsaratanana massif, located in the center of the land. If it culminates at 2,880 m, at the foot of these mountains plains lined with rice fields and planted with orchards surround the rivers. Strings of islands also border extremely indented coasts, where green mangrove creeks follow white sand beaches. All this is bordered by a background of tropical vegetation, which becomes more and more dense as you go down along the east coast. What a delicious landscape, which seems to come straight from an artist's palette!

Diego Suarez, a so particular atmosphere

We then put our bags in Diego Suarez, Antsiranana of its Malagasy name, the largest city in the north of the Big Island. With a population of about 110,000 inhabitants, it is a very pleasant place to stay to visit the beautiful sites around. In Diego, you will quickly notice that there is a particular atmosphere that cannot be found anywhere else. Dusty streets bathed in sunlight, a scent of a Latin American port, old decrepit colonial buildings or wooden shacks lost in the middle of flowers... A particular and particularly exotic atmosphere. The city, quite large and built in a grid pattern, has experienced a certain tourist boom, favored by flights that used to be regular to and from Reunion Island and thanks to the proximity of the paradisiacal island of Nosy Be. This renewed popularity is also due to its exceptional geographical location, in the heart of one of the most beautiful bays in the world. As far as the eye can see, magnificent beaches stretch out, almost deserted and without a single bungalow in sight. Natural beauty spots attract travelers, who are delighted by the climate (it rarely rains). It is especially necessary to stroll through its charming little streets: you will find a number of adorable little bars that make it one of the most nightlife-friendly cities in Madagascar. Streets that are sublimated every year, during the Stritarty Festival, where local and international artists come to "graffiti" on the walls for a colorful result.

The Tsingy Rouges, nature's fantasies

The Tsingy Rouges, here is one of the epinal images of Madagascar, a site as original as ephemeral, that we reach after about 2 hours drive south of Diego Suarez. To get there, we cross large wild areas populated by Satrana, the lataniers of Mada. The track is of good quality when leaving the national road (for 17 km), although it must reveal the prowess of the vehicle (and sometimes the agility of the driver!) in the ascents and descents. We distinguish the sea, in the distance. Then we reach a kind of canyon and the first Red Tsingy are revealed. We continue then towards other fanciful arabesques of the nature, much more impressive, nested in the hollow of a small canyon sculpted by a river. Note however, these tsingy are not "real" tsingy, in the sense that they are not limestone rocks, but a mineral set of sandstone, marl and limestone. Paradoxically, this spectacle is a gift well unconscious of the deforestation. With a simple camera, here is the promise to come back with superb pictures!

Between lakes and waterfalls in the park of the Mountain of Amber

Then, still south of Diego near Joffreville, we enter the Montagne d'Ambre National Park, the first park of Madagascar, created in October 1958. It surprises at first by its green and tropical aspect. It culminates at 1 475 m of altitude and its surface is 18 200 ha (special reserve and classified forest not included). The annual rainfall amounts to 3,500 mm, which is a lot (comparable to the Northeast region, near Maroantsetra). For example, the rainfall is 300 mm per year around Diego! Several crater lakes (five in all) and some waterfalls (Antomboka, Antankarana and the Sacred Waterfall in particular) still testify, if it were necessary, to the abundance of water in the region and its telluric past.

Note: this park is different from most of the others on the island, because many natural sites are accessible by car. Do not overdo it though, in order to respect the walkers and the surrounding nature. However, it is a very interesting option for those who have difficulty moving around. Here, one can observe seven species of lemurs, including the crowned lemur and the Sanfor lemur, as well as the red microcebe. It is more difficult to see the aye-aye. One should also be able to meet the fossa, the Malagasy carnivore, but this confrontation is very unlikely: it is very rare to see it during the day while walking (a few years ago, we had however this chance), and as at night, it is very rare to walk in the woods under the rain, it is globally quite uncommon to observe it! It is also possible to see 77 species of birds (of which 35 are endemic), about fifty species of reptiles, many amphibians and even more butterflies.

As for the flora, the botanists in the making will look at the numerous epiphytic plants, the ramy(Canarium Madagascariensis) or the famelona(Chrysophyllum), which are used as medicinal plants. Also to be noted: the rotra, whose fruits suit the appetite of lemurs. But only a part of this immense forest has been studied, and many species remain to be discovered, in particular with regard to medicinal plants.

Emerald Sea, the well named

After these beautiful discoveries inland, it will finally be time to get out the bathing suit, mask and fins to enjoy the splendid (and well named) Emerald Sea. The sea, which faces the Bay of Dunes, is a real paradise for lovers of turquoise waters and deserted beaches and is therefore a must for a pirogue ride, a fishing trip and for snorkeling. From mid-June to the beginning of September, the wind can be violent and this expedition less attractive (the lagoon is cloudy). It is however the best season to have the wind at your back! But during this period, windsurfers and kitesurfers have a great time! Babaomby, a place located at the edge of the Emerald Sea, is a beautiful site, ideal for kitesurfing and windsurfing in season. As a result, a few good quality lodges have opened in recent years.

FUTURE INFO

When is the best time to visit?

The southern winter (dry season) is the most pleasant season. It is therefore advisable to plan your stay between April and October or November.

Duration

A long week is recommended to visit the north of the Big Island. It is also necessary to have some time to enjoy Antananarivo and to synchronize domestic flights which are not numerous. Count therefore a fortnight to fully enjoy the circuit.

Budget

Madagascar is a rather cheap country with a very good quality-price ratio. Once the flights are booked, the budget remains very reasonable.

Public

With family, friends, couple... everyone can enjoy it.

The plus

- This tour is an opportunity to travel in the heart of nature, in wild and little frequented places. We are far from mass tourism.

- Discovering the Tsingy Rouges or sailing on the Emerald Sea are unique experiences. The north of Mada conceals many varied and fascinating sites to discover.

- Here, the people are always adorable and the guides really friendly and truculent.

- And it is not difficult to find establishments where you can eat well.

The minuses

- It is necessary to foresee a consequent budget if one envisages to use a flight to shorten the times of transport. This is possible since the arrival of the domestic airline Tsiradia, managed by Air Madagascar.

- The mentioned sites are not easily accessible and it is necessary to have the time to travel and especially to accept the hazards of transport. The paradisiacal sites of the North have a price!

Getting there

Almost daily flights. The average price of a return flight from Paris to Antananarivo varies between €700 and €1,500. Air Madagascar is a very pleasant company and Tsaradia, its subsidiary company, offers domestic flights.

- AIR MADAGASCAR - More information on the site

Useful

- OFFICE NATIONAL DU TOURISME DE MADAGASCAR - More information on the site

Money

In April 2023, 1 € was exchanged at 4 807 Ar.

Formalities

A passport valid for 6 months after your stay in the island is required. The visa costs 27 € for one month (30 days), 33 € for two months and 46 € for three months, and can be delivered on arrival at the airport (provide the amount in cash and in euros).

Time difference

Plus 1 hour during summer time in France. Plus 2 hours during winter time.

Specialists

- ÉVASION SANS FRONTIÈRE (ESF) - More information on the site

Grand Hotel of Diego Suarez

Évasion Sans Frontière is a high quality operator offering all kinds of excursions in the region.

- LE GRAND HÔTEL

46, Colbert street, Antsiranana

The Grand Hotel of Diego Suarez is a local institution and a very beautiful four-star establishment with swimming pool and spa.