Budget & Tips
Cash is the only form of payment possible in Mauritania for most of your purchases: at the market, in the cab, at the hostel, at the restaurant... With the exception of the rare luxury addresses which sometimes accept credit cards.
Currency. Please note that the obligation to declare all of your foreign currency upon entering Mauritania was abolished by circular N° 006/GR/98 issued by the Central Bank of Mauritania on July 27, 1998. If a customs officer should ask you to comply with this constraint, be firm and refuse. It is forbidden to take ouguiyas out of the country and, in any case, you will have great difficulty changing them upon your return. If you come to Mauritania from Mali or Senegal, you are not allowed to enter the country with CFA francs. The problem is therefore, on the one hand, to plan approximately the money needed for your stay before leaving, and on the other hand, not to convert too much of your currency into ouguiyas once you are in the country. The commission charged by Mauritanian banks to change your currency into ouguiyas is about 2%.
Banking. There are many bank branches in Nouakchott and many of them have recently been equipped with ATMs that accept Visa cards. In theory, there is no need to carry large sums of money with you... In practice, the commissions charged by European banks on withdrawals in Mauritania remain high (€4-5 per withdrawal), and importing cash to be exchanged locally remains the most economical solution. To change euros into ouguiyas, you will be strongly solicited in the street, around the central market. For large sums of money, prefer bank branches (Société Générale), where you will benefit from a better rate than in the street... but it all depends on the exchange rate.
Outside the capital, ATMs accepting Visa cards are available in Nouadhibou and Atar. Elsewhere, you will have to bring ouguiyas, because the exchange is not practiced there, or at not very advantageous rates, as it is the case in Rosso.
What's very local
In Mauritania, you have to search! The markets will be places of treasure hunts, discoveries, experiments: they are really swarming! Humans, animals, objects, fruits and vegetables, fish, meat... Sometimes on the ground, you can't miss these examples of Mauritanian daily life. To bring back without fail: dates, fabrics, handicrafts, bottarga, a khaïma!
Bargaining is a very common practice in Mauritania. Many prices are discussed: cab, accommodation, cigarettes, all the small services, not to mention the typical souvenirs sold in specialized stores in Nouakchott, which are undoubtedly worth a visit, provided you are prepared. To simplify, let's say that you have to remember two things in order not to sink into the fear of being constantly cheated. The first one is that you must define before any transaction the price that you consider fair, and never accept to pay more than this price. This is easy at first glance, but in reality it requires a lot of confidence and skill on the part of the European traveler. You will be solicited, you will not go unnoticed, and everyone knows that with an exchange rate of 1 € against 40 MRU, the European traveler is necessarily a good customer. The second thing to remember is to be prepared for any eventuality by leaving without the desired object and without cursing the seller. This can be learned and requires patience. It is worth the time, because successful haggling is an incredible way to share, exchange, and build relationships.