What to eat Argentina? culinary specialties and gastronomy

Stretching between the Andes mountains to the west and the Atlantic Ocean to the east, Argentina produces a wide variety of foodstuffs, making it one of the world's biggest producers of corn, wheat and soybeans, not to mention a host of fruits: peaches(melocotón), apricots(albaricoque), nectarines(durazno), apples(manzana), melons(melón) and watermelons(sandia). Not forgetting grapes(uva), grown especially in the drier western regions. Berries such as strawberries(frutilla), raspberries(frambuesas) and blackberries(mora) are also very popular, and overflow market stalls during the austral summer, between December and March.

With almost 5,000 km of coastline bathed in fish-filled waters, thanks to the cold currents coming from Antarctica, the choice and quality of seafood is second to none. In addition to the great specialized restaurants, you can visit the municipal markets of the major port cities. The fish is often excellent and the prices ridiculous. The ubiquitous fish are congrio (conger eel), el atún (tuna), corvina (sea bass), lenguado (sole) and, of course, the succulent merluza negra (Patagonian toothfish). As for mariscos or seafood, here too, abundance is king: camarones (prawns), erizos (sea urchins), ostiones (scallops), pulpos (octopus), calamares (squid), mejillón (mussel). Near rivers and lakes, go for the generally inexpensive truchas (trout) and salmones (salmon). In Tierra del Fuego, you'll discover and appreciate the centolla, an enormous spider crab, the gastronomic emblem of this island at the end of the world.

Bakers and supermarkets offer large quantities of bread, rarely sold in baguette form, but rather in small loaves: el pan francés or marraqueta (sort of four mini baguettes joined together) or el pan italiano (oilier and crunchier). You'll find white bread, brown bread, cereal bread and, if you're lucky, olive or walnut bread. Other starchy foods are well integrated, such as potatoes, often eaten as French fries(papas fritas) or mashed potatoes(puré de papas).

Argentine meat, whether mutton, lamb or beef, is exceptional in terms of taste and tenderness. The most popular meat preparation is the asado, sometimes called parrillada, accompanied by French fries and a light lettuce-tomato-onion salad. It's usually a tutti carni of beef or mutton, giblets and sausages placed on a small grill known as a parrilla. More than a cooking method, it's also an opportunity to get together with family and friends. Argentines are the^2nd biggest consumers of beef, with around 120 kg per capita per year, just behind their neighbors, the Uruguayans, compared with "only" 80 kg for Americans. Poultry is also popular, and chicken is often grilled alongside beef on the parrilla. Pork is also eaten, but in the form of sausages. Note that in Argentina, the term "chorizo" refers to a sausage to be cooked, not to a delicatessen, even if it contains spices similar to Iberian chorizo.

Every type of restaurant is represented in Argentina, including the world's leading fast-food chains. The most typical Argentinian establishment is, of course, the parrilla, where you can enjoy kilos of tender, very tasty meat served on the grill. For a quick meal, Argentina is rich in confiterías, the equivalent of a brasserie-tea room. In addition to parrillas and all the world cuisine restaurants, you're sure to eat in one of the many trattorias and pizzerias. It's more common to order a large pizza to share than an individual one. For stomachs with a hard time satisfying themselves, the tenedor libre or "free fork" is a type of buffet where you eat as much as you like for a fixed price. For breakfast(desayuno), most confiterías and cafés offer fixed-price formulas, usually served until 11am. Your menu can include coffee, orange juice, media-lunas (croissants) or tostados(toasted slices of bread filled with ham and cheese). For a quick, light meal, you can take a look at the menu of minutas (sandwiches and quick hot dishes) or try the panchos (sandwich hot dogs) that one of the many kioscos will sell you on the street. When it comes to eating times, Argentines follow the Latin model. At lunchtime, people generally eat between 1pm and 3pm, while in the evening, a classic restaurant will rarely open before 9pm. On the other hand, kitchens close very late. In the capital, you'll have no trouble getting service until 2am. In the interior, count on midnight.

Although the great classics of Argentine cuisine, such asasado and empanadas, are easy to find throughout the country, there are obviously differences, particularly in the use of certain local ingredients, not to mention the many communities that - in each region - have shaped a gastronomy all their own.

The northeast and Mesopotamia of Argentina are the most populous and agricultural parts of the country. They are home to the country's largest cities, such as Buenos Aires, Córdoba and Rosario. This is also the region with the strongest European presence. In fact, along with the USA, Canada and Brazil, Argentina is one of the countries on the American continent that has received the most immigrants from the Old World. Around two-thirds of Argentines have ancestors from Italy, and Italian specialities are a big hit: pasta, gnocchi, pizza, lasagne, cannelloni, etc. The country also produces a large number of cheeses. Many cheeses and cured meats are also produced. Not to mention the influences of neighboring Brazil and Paraguay. You'll have the opportunity to eat river fish such as surubi and dorado, especially in the regions bordering Paraguay.

The northwest region is undoubtedly the one that offers the most exotic flavors. The cuisine is a little spicy, as it is influenced by Indian customs. But rest assured, none of the dishes will inflame your palate or leave you breathless. The basic ingredient is corn(choclo). The main dishes are tamales, humitas and locros. Humita is a corn purée prepared with a few vegetables and bits of cheese. It's all mixed together and served wrapped in a corn leaf. The tamal follows the same recipe, but the ingredients are different (you'll find meat). Locro is a kind of stew, again made with corn, in which vegetables and pieces of meat are simmered.

In Patagonia, beef is losing popularity to mutton. The region is a major center of sheep production, and you'll have the opportunity to taste cordero patagónico (Patagonian mutton). In Tierra del Fuego, you'll discover (especially if you've just crossed the country) the centolla (large spider crab). When visiting the Chubut Valley, be sure to treat yourself to a Welsh tea, not just for the drink, but for all the cakes that go with it. In the lower Chubut river valley, don't forget to sample the excellent local cheeses. This profoundly wild region is also a good place to enjoy game - wild boar or deer - and Patagonian trout or trucha patagónica.

The culinary emblem of Argentina, the asado refers to anything that can be slow-roasted on a parrilla (grill). The secret of a good asado lies in the way the meat is cut and the heat of the embers maintained. The pieces, which have been salted beforehand, are placed horizontally on a grill or à la criolla (vertically, on stakes) over glowing coals. You'll need to be patient, as the meat won't be removed for an hour or more. This is because Argentines and Chileans, unlike Europeans or North Americans, are not fond of rare meat. This method cooks the meat thoroughly without burning it, resulting in well-cooked, yet still juicy meat. The Argentinians, in particular, are masters of this technique, and have adapted their cuts of meat to this form of cooking. As a result, you won't find the same cuts as in French markets. Other asado-cooked specialties include sausages(chorizo), black pudding(morcilla), tripe(chinchulines) and cheese(provoleta), all grilled over coals. Among the most common cuts is bife de chorizo, a rib-eye steak cooked on its own fat. The bife de lomo is a very thick, tender tenderloin cut from the lower back, a must-try for fans of rare meat, as it's usually served pinker than the other cuts. Most Argentines, regardless of region or social class, prepare their own asados. Many apartments have parrillas (in the garden or on the balcony), as do campsites. You'll also see many improvisedasados on the side of the road or in parks. Theasado, like mate, represents a social bond. Gathering around an asado on a Sunday means getting together, talking and taking the time for the meat to cook.

Other types ofasado are still held in the countryside: theasado con cuero, for example, in which a veal cut into pieces is buried in a pit, covered with zinc sheets and embers that are kept hot for several hours. Try the cordero patagonico al palo. If Patagonia were an independent country, this spit-roasted lamb would be its national dish, and would certainly have its own national holiday. The meat is cooked outdoors, on a metal cross, for a whole day, making the skin crispy and the meat melt like butter. And to accompany it all, the inevitable chimichurri sauce, made with olive oil, parsley, chilli, garlic and vinegar. Other meat recipes include matambre, a kind of beef, pork or veal roll with vegetables. Or puchero, the Hispanic equivalent of pot-au-feu, with beef of course, plus corn and squash, all simmered for a long time.

As for the rest, fish and seafood are obviously very common. There aren't necessarily dozens of recipes; here, the main benefit is the freshness of the product, which is prepared simply grilled - in this case, order a parrillada de mariscos - or sometimes even raw. Alternatively, try cazuela de mariscos, a tasty, fragrant tomato-based stew in which a variety of seafood is simmered: shrimp, mussels, scallops and more. Trucha patagonica or Patagonian trout thrives in the region's glacial lakes and rivers. It is prepared in a variety of ways, including grilled, pan-fried, roasted and in creamy stews. Even further south, in Tierra del Fuego, chupe de centolla will thrill all shellfish lovers. Imagine a pot of creamy king crab, topped with breadcrumbs and cheese and gratinated to perfection. A real treat!

And of course, if you're feeling a bit peckish, you won't want to miss one of Argentina's most emblematic dishes: theempanada. These half-moon-shaped turnovers can be filled with any type of filling, although meat predominates, notably beef, pork or chicken. In Patagonia, of course, mutton has pride of place. Empanadas de cordero are stuffed with the succulent Patagonian roast lamb. Another on-the-go specialty is the choripan, a hot sandwich made with chorizo, which in this case is a large spicy sausage and not a dry sausage like Spanish chorizo. It's served with salsa criollo, made with red onions and vinegar, and chimichurri sauce.

Italian cuisine is well represented. Of course, there are a variety of pasta recipes featuring spaghetti, fettucini, orecchiette, ravioli, tortellini and gnocchi. Not forgetting lasagne and cannelloni. Pizzerias are also very common in the country, although overall pasta and pizza recipes are quite similar to those found in Italy. The fugazzeta, however, is an Argentine invention, in the form of a pizza richly topped with caramelized onions, cheese and sometimes ham. Faina is the local equivalent known between Nice and Genoa as socca, comprising a thick, tasty chickpea flour pancake. The classic milanesa, or Milanese-style veal cutlet, is breaded and served with a tomato coulis. It is sometimes garnished with cheese and ham, cordon-bleu style. Alternatively, picada is ideal as an aperitif, in the form of a large plate of Italian cheese and cured meats with crudités.

The many waves of immigration have left their mark on the region's cuisine, and in particular its pastries. German immigrants brought with them strudels filled with apples, cherries, cottage cheese and dried fruit, as well as copious fruit tarts and other multi-layered cakes. The very popular brazo de reina is a rolled cake filled with dulce de leche and dusted with powdered sugar. Emblematic of Argentina, dulce de leche or milk jam is sometimes called manjar. In the province of Chubut, the Welsh community is famous for its tea rooms serving scones and torta negra, a kind of cake made with brown sugar, walnuts, orange zest, candied fruit and cinnamon. Miga sandwiches are delicate sandwiches made with buttered, crusty white bread, somewhat similar to the English cucumber sandwiches served for tea. Here, they are also topped with very thin slices of charcuterie, cheese, hard-boiled egg and lettuce. Alfajores are shortbread cookies filled with dulce de leche or jam, then coated in a chocolate shell. And let's not forget the helados (ice creams) - imported from Italy - that can be found on every street corner.

The noble heir of German immigration, chocolate is very much appreciated in the region. The Patagonian town of San Carlos de Bariloche is often referred to as the Chocolate Capital of South America. The city is home to a host of chocolate makers. Hot chocolate is popular, even if Argentines prefer coffee. And with an Italian, Spanish and Germanic heritage, there's no reason to deprive yourself, as coffee in Argentina is often considered excellent. For proof of this, a visit to one of the city's many cafés is a must. Of course, it's impossible not to mention the emblematic Café Tortoni, founded in 1858, with its sumptuous Art Nouveau interiors. Many local and international celebrities have passed through here, and its lower room, known as "La Bodega", has a stage where tango dancers compete. Quite a program. But of course there's plenty to choose from, including Café Margot (1904) with its bistro look, El Federal (1864) with its magnificent Art Nouveau bar, La Biela (1950), more popular and known for its large shaded terrace, or Las Violetas (1884) with its rococo interiors.

If there's one infusion everyone in the region agrees on, it's mate. Made from yerba mate, an indigenous plant found between northern Argentina and southern Brazil, it has been consumed in the region for thousands of years. An excellent heart tonic, it is sipped all day long. Traditionally, it is brewed in a small calabash (a type of drained and dried gourd) while the juice is sucked through a filtering straw called a "bombilla". More than just a drink, mate enables Argentines and Chileans to socialize, meet up and chat. Gauchos follow a precise ritual when drinking mate: seated in a circle, they pass the drink clockwise from hand to hand.

A heavyweight in the wine industry, Argentina is one of the world's largest producers and consumers of wine. The first vines were planted in the country as early as 1557. "Estar entre San Juan y Mendoza" is a local expression, synonymous with "being drunk", referring to the country's largest wine-growing region, producing 80% of Argentina's wine, located between the cities of Mendoza and San Juan. For a long time, bodegas (wineries) focused on quantity rather than quality, but over the past decade, Argentine wine has benefited from investments by the world's major wine-producing groups, and many foreign oenologists are looking to this new land as the next Eldorado of vintages to offer wine lovers.

The most common red grape varieties are Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and Barbera follow. Malbec is the grape variety specific to Argentina, as oenologists consider the Mendoza region to be the most suitable in the world for growing this type of vine. As Cabernet Sauvignon needs no introduction, we can concentrate on a few vineyards with this variety, such as Finca Catena Zapata, Fabre Montmayou, Cavas Weinart and Michel Torino. Syrah, gloriously represented in France by the Côte Rôtie and Hermitage appellations, shows its full body and powerful perfume in Argentine bottles. Among the best are Navarro Correas Syrah, Viniterra Syrah and Finca La Anita's 1996 Syrah.

Argentine production covers the whole range of grape varieties used to make white wine, from Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Semillon, Tokay and Chenin Blanc to Riesling and Gewurztraminer. However, the quality of its whites is much lower than that of its reds, with the exception of torrontés. Of Spanish origin, it is produced mainly in the Cafayate valley, at an altitude of over 1,600 m, and is one of the most surprising whites you'll taste.

When it comes to beers, Quilmes is a must. Brewed in Zárate, not far from Buenos Aires, this brand has been around since 1888 and now accounts for over 3/4 of the Argentine beer market. The remaining quarter is made up of smaller local breweries, such as Andes, Norte, Salta and others that are downright artisanal, but which have managed to hold their own, particularly in Patagonia: Antares, El Bolsón, Beagle, Blest, Berlina, la Cruz, Pilgrim and others. Not forgetting cider, which is particularly popular at Christmas.

As for stronger spirits, Branca brand Fernet, from Milan, is a national drink, so to speak, and widely consumed, but unlike their European cousins, Argentines often mix it with Coca-Cola and add ice to make a Fernet-Cola. Gancia, a cooked wine very similar in taste to Martini, is drunk with sugar, a squeeze of lime and crushed ice. Hesperidina is a brand of bitter made from bitter orange peel used to make cocktails, created in 1864.